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Stripped Frame Bolt Hole

Monica

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This weekend's ride I lost the bolt that holds the kickstand bracket to the frame. It had been coming loose and I had been intending on getting to it. Now, I can't put it off. I had a closer look and the it seems the threads are stripped in the frame. I'm gonna guess I need to retap or use a thread insert. Right now I'm leaning towards using a Time Sert kit. Anyone ever had to do the same? What was your experience? Any tips?
267893
 
Helicoil works good at a lesser cost and and requires less procedure precision.
 
John knows how this bike has pushed me to the edge :lol2:

Helicoil works good at a lesser cost and and requires less procedure precision.
Good to know. Think it'll still be strong enough? In my mind I see springy coils and think less robustness. Thoughts?
 
I don’t think you have the 1st WR to lose this bolt. Someone might have a thread repair kit already. I would not be scared of a helicoil in that application. What size is the bolt?
 
Haven't had a Yammy in years but can you drill and put a nut on the other side? Much better option if available. Tapping Alum is always So much fun.
 
I don’t think you have the 1st WR to lose this bolt. Someone might have a thread repair kit already. I would not be scared of a helicoil in that application. What size is the bolt?
I wondered if there were others. This one is an M10x1.25x25

ETA: Part # 90105-10245-00



Haven't had a Yammy in years but can you drill and put a nut on the other side? Much better option if available. Tapping Alum is always So much fun.
Unfortunate no it doesn't go through. That would definitely be the easy way though.
 
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I have a metric tap and die set if you need it or let me know if you need a hand, I am working out of town a few days this week but should be back by Thursday

If you want the tap set let me know and I will put it where my wife can find it if you swing by
 
This weekend's ride I lost the bolt that holds the kickstand bracket to the frame. It had been coming loose and I had been intending on getting to it. Now, I can't put it off. I had a closer look and the it seems the threads are stripped in the frame. I'm gonna guess I need to retap or use a thread insert. Right now I'm leaning towards using a Time Sert kit. Anyone ever had to do the same? What was your experience? Any tips?View attachment 267893
I spent 6 years on bikes and 21 years on import cars with aluminum heads so I have seen literally hundreds of stripped bolt holes.
I personally love time serts particularly when it’s in aluminum. If it’s a situation where you have to remove It on ocasion I’d never put a helicoil in if I could avoid it. Time sert’s are A do it once and forget it, it’s stronger than the original. It is a little more work and slightly more expensive. On either one I use green lock tight so it does not come out.
 
I spent 6 years on bikes and 21 years on import cars with aluminum heads so I have seen literally hundreds of stripped bolt holes.
I personally love time serts particularly when it’s in aluminum. If it’s a situation where you have to remove It on ocasion I’d never put a helicoil in if I could avoid it. Time sert’s are A do it once and forget it, it’s stronger than the original. It is a little more work and slightly more expensive. On either one I use green lock tight so it does not come out.
See that was my thinking. In that spot right there I only have a limited amt of aluminum I can drill and tap so many times. And the kickstand is a thing I use all the time so it's receiving a lot of pressure and movement. Plus I've modified the kickstand so it's angles aren't scientific at all, just the 'I'll cut it and reweld it like this' by me. What I don't want to do is restripe that hole. I'm not removing that bolt for any kind of regular reason but I'm concerned about the repetitive use on the stand.

I don't like the time sert price, but I do like it's solid nature that it might last. It also have a thicker version if that first repair fails. But I'd like this first repair to last until I don't have the bike anymore.

IDK, still thinking about it. I'm getting through this workweek and hopefully make a decision this weekend. I have rear tire repair to do and parts on the way so I'll be working on bike stuff anyway.
 
See that was my thinking. In that spot right there I only have a limited amt of aluminum I can drill and tap so many times. And the kickstand is a thing I use all the time so it's receiving a lot of pressure and movement. Plus I've modified the kickstand so it's angles aren't scientific at all, just the 'I'll cut it and reweld it like this' by me. What I don't want to do is restripe that hole. I'm not removing that bolt for any kind of regular reason but I'm concerned about the repetitive use on the stand.

I don't like the time sert price, but I do like it's solid nature that it might last. It also have a thicker version if that first repair fails. But I'd like this first repair to last until I don't have the bike anymore.

IDK, still thinking about it. I'm getting through this workweek and hopefully make a decision this weekend. I have rear tire repair to do and parts on the way so I'll be working on bike stuff anyway.
Just Healy coil it, quick and easy. Or drill, use a bottoming tap and make it a standard thread. If it was to ever give issues agai it could be time serted or tig to e hole closed and drill/ re thread to standard. It would probably be easiest, cheapest to go with a drill out and tap new threads.
 
My take is the threads stripped out not because of repeated use of the kickstand, but because the bolt got loose combined with the kickstand usage.
If the bolt remains tightened to spec, there should be little to no relative movement of the bolt that would tear the threads up.
So whichever repair you select, so long as it is strong enough and you keep the bolt tight, will be a permanent fix.
 
A helicoil will be stronger than original threads on a Asian bike , way stronger than aluminum on everything else . My 72 Penton came from the factory with helicoil thread inserts in any threaded holes in aluminum . Imagine my dissapointment when I discovered other bikes weren’t like that . And klr foot pegs need it done from the factory too .
 
I appreciate everyone's input so far. Given me things to think about.

Just ran and got new bolts. No decision yet on the thread kit.
Real quick, the lower bracket hole is a little wallowed out. Anything I can do to fix or help this?
 

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Honestly, so long as the bracket has plenty of area for the bolt head flange to get a good purchase on, I wouldn't worry about it. If you feel it doesn't, just add a proper size flat washer. Alternatively, if you know someone that can weld aluminum that is cheap or free, weld it up and drill a new hole. I wouldn't bother with it if it were my motor scooter.
That's what I was hoping to hear. No cheap/free aluminum welder nearby but it could be had of it were vital. But its not. Thanks for the guidance.
 
I went ahead and ordered a Time Sert kit from Amazon, should arrive next weekend. I looked around locally for Helicoil kits on chance I could get the repair done this past weekend, but no one had them in stock. I finished the rear tire change then went fishing :mrgreen:

For the meantime I need to get the jack flipped around to the other side under the bike and remove the foot peg. This will give me room to swing the tap T-handle a full 360*. Trying to set myself up to keep the work as straight as possible.
 
They are everywhere in the industrial market , not so much retail because they are targeted for industrial professionals retail customers will screw up installation and want their money back and they don’t want to jack with them . MSC is a professional wholesaler with one day shipping on most stuff , they do have stores but with a catalog on hand I usally just order anything . Zero is another but they don’t have a catalog and internet catalogs suck about as bad as it gets .
 
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