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Stripped Frame Bolt Hole

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Cagiva 549 said:
They are everywhere in the industrial market , not so much retail because they are targeted for industrial professionals retail customers will screw up installation and want their money back and they don’t want to jack with them . MSC is a professional wholesaler with one day shipping on most stuff , they do have stores but with a catalog on hand I usally just order anything . Zero is another but they don’t have a catalog and internet catalogs suck about as bad as it gets .
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Ah, that makes sense. I don't blame the companies for being choosey about their market. I've viewed all levels of youtube video repairs.
 
Monica said:
I went ahead and ordered a Time Sert kit from Amazon, should arrive next weekend. I looked around locally for Helicoil kits on chance I could get the repair done this past weekend, but no one had them in stock. I finished the rear tire change then went fishing :mrgreen:

For the meantime I need to get the jack flipped around to the other side under the bike and remove the foot peg. This will give me room to swing the tap T-handle a full 360*. Trying to set myself up to keep the work as straight as possible.
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Fastenal or Napa probably would have been a good local place to look but looks like you have the kit covered on the way in from Amazon
 
Monica said:
I appreciate everyone's input so far. Given me things to think about.

Just ran and got new bolts. No decision yet on the thread kit.
Real quick, the lower bracket hole is a little wallowed out. Anything I can do to fix or help this?
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No room to do a bolt with backup nut as someone suggested? What is creating so much stress on the kickstand to cause this?
 
OK this is gone on far too long for a simple project.

This is at most a 10 minute repair with a 24 hour cure..

Items needed:

One can of brake cleaner
one JB weld kit,


Liberally clean the hole With the brake cleaner

Liberally clean the bolt with the brake cleaner


mix up enough of the JB Weld To fill the bolt hole that’s stripped on The back of the package that the JB Weld came in...

fill the hole with a mixed JB Weld, shove the clean bolt in and hold it for one minute, Then walk away from the Motorcycle for at least 24 hours.

after 24 hours gear up and go ride.

👍
 
budzrex said:
Fastenal or Napa probably would have been a good local place to look but looks like you have the kit covered on the way in from Amazon
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Totally forgot about Napa. Theyre a city over but I like to use them for my truck stuff.

Jcstratt said:
No room because the bolt threads into the engine case half. It’s not open behind it.

Stress didn’t cause the issue. The bolt became loose and then it vibrated until the hole was worn and the threads were gone.

Stress was not introduced until Monica saw what happened and had to deal with it. 😬
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Hey hey hey, my OCD and perfectionist side has got to come out somewhere :-P

ETA-stress...because I only have use of one arm when I roll the bike around I keep the kickstand down as a safety in case I lose balance. When the bolt got lose and I didn't realize it but the bracket would rotate a little bit if the stand dragged. That's how I caught it the last day I lost it. So idk chicken or the egg. But now I'm fixing it.

Vec said:
OK this is gone on far too long for a simple project.

This is at most a 10 minute repair with a 24 hour cure..

Items needed:

One can of brake cleaner
one JB weld kit,


Liberally clean the hole With the brake cleaner

Liberally clean the bolt with the brake cleaner


mix up enough of the JB Weld To fill the bolt hole that’s stripped on The back of the package that the JB Weld came in...

fill the hole with a mixed JB Weld, shove the clean bolt in and hold it for one minute, Then walk away from the Motorcycle for at least 24 hours.

after 24 hours gear up and go ride.

👍
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You know I saw that on you tube. Wasn't certain what to make of it. That really work?
 
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Finally have some time. Jack swapped around. Peg and peg bracket removed. Time sert should get here this weekend. Swapping handlebars in the meantime.
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I don't want to add to the confusion and advice, but does the bolt go through the frame to the engine case? If the time-sert fits through the frame hole, without having to drill it out, excellent. If not, you may need to drop the engine to do the repair. You don't want to wallow out the frame hole. This may cause undue stress on the bolt from movement in the frame. And go easy when drilling aluminum, it will go FAST.
 
Jcstratt said:
Monica, are you certain the threads are gone? That doesn’t look like a worn hole to me. At least not from what I can see in the photo. Do you already have a replacement oem bolt?
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Yes, threads are gone. Pics are hard to get but I can see in the hole. Look at the pic in my first post, that's better one. This pic just above is merely showing the peg parts out of the way and a clear frame for workspace.

Yes have replacement bolts already. Not OEM (cause someone forgot to order it with the tire order several weeks ago :roll:)but same size and style.

jfink said:
I don't want to add to the confusion and advice, but does the bolt go through the frame to the engine case? If the time-sert fits through the frame hole, without having to drill it out, excellent. If not, you may need to drop the engine to do the repair. You don't want to wallow out the frame hole. This may cause undue stress on the bolt from movement in the frame. And go easy when drilling aluminum, it will go FAST.
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No, bolt does not go through to the engine case.
 
Not sure if I chimed in already. I thought I had. I would suggest a Time-sert as opposed to a helicoil. The kit to install is more expensive but it gives a more solid installation and in a point that supports a lot of weight it will offer a stronger solution in the grand scheme of things. Probably important for something that you'll be putting weight on.
 
Waiting to see your finished product. You will find the time sert install fairly straight forward.
 
Drilled and countersunk. The drill bit is no joke, it'll rip your wrist off. This was actually the "hardest" part of process.
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Oiled thread tap, its started easy and proceeded fine. Probably the easiest tap job I've done.
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Threaded insert on, I did use red loctite on it. I had to actually install a sleeve twice. First time the insert didn't seat all the way down before I ran the die through it so I removed it, tried again (I suspect a thread at the bottom jammed up the works). Next time I would use a jam nut on the die while seating the insert fully, then loosen the nut to drive the die to expand the insert. I couldn't find an M10 nut laying around but the second try went fine.
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Insert done
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All back together w new hardware. Blue loctite on everything. Yep sidestand sensor was secured
269185
 
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Nice job Monica. Once you do something like this, you get the confidence to do a little more, then a little more...
 
Baja_Bound said:
Nice job Monica. Once you do something like this, you get the confidence to do a little more, then a little more...
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Thanks :-D with any luck I don't strip out any more threaded things lol
 
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