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Stripped screw!

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AnthonyInTX

AnthonyInTX

Joined
May 31, 2026
Messages
34
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Location
Manvel/Pearland
I’ve been working on my fender eliminator today, but one vital hex screw is stripped and I can’t get it out!

Have tried the rubber band method as well as a screw extractor kit, but nothing is working. I can’t move forward on the project without getting this stupid screw out!

Looks like tomorrow I’m going in with a Dremel to try and make it into a flathead of sorts.
 
Invest a couple of bucks in a screw extractor set.

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Went out there with a fresh battery on my drill, used screw extractor kit, and it’s exactly the same. That sucker’s in there tight and won’t budge. The other three took some elbow grease but eventually came out. We’ll see if the Dremel route works… 🤞
 
Center drill the screw and tap new threads before you trash the head of the screw , while you can still be certain of getting it perfectly straight .
 
Can you heat the area? If so do so. Spray some penetrating oil on it. Try to center punch exactly in the center. May have to grind off head to get good flat target. Get a left hand drill bit. If you get lucky the screw will come out with the drill. If not try the extractor again.

If that doesn’t work take an identical screw and measure the minor diameter and use a drill bit of that size. Then run in the corresponding tap.

If that doesn’t work can you heli-coil it? Last resort could be JB weld tapped.
 
I’ve used a manual impact driver with success. Wack it with a hammer, and the motion forces the bit into the head and keeps it from slipping, while also forcing a slight rotation. Also if this is a metric bike, be sure you are using JIS bits and not Phillips
 

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I appreciate y’all’s advice and everyone’s encouragement.

Tried the Dremel and no luck there. Might have slightly damaged the fairing, but it should be fine.

At this point I’m fully out of patience. I think I might just take it to a shop and have them pull it out if they can.

It’s so frustrating because this one dang bolt is legitimately the only thing standing between me and completing the project.
 
I would try a small chisel on one side to break it loose. Drive the chisel into the head at a 45 degree angle on one side and try to drive that side counter clockwise. As much as you’ve drilled it, it might break the head off first, but that would be ok too.
 
Geez... I have no skin in the game but I wonder what it looked like before your secondary efforts. That's one mangled mess right there.
 
That's not too bad. It looks like it is in a spot where the seat covers it. Larger drill bit and drill the head off the bolt and go from there. :thumb:
 
XB12XT said:
At this point, carefully drill the head off of it with a larger drill bit. Remove the fairing, then worry about what's left.
Click to expand...
Anthony, XB has a very good point. This seems like the best idea yet. I know it will set you back completion-wise but doing this will probably lessen the damage to visible parts.

I apologize if you already know how to do the following, I know how to do it because I’ve screwed the pooch so many times I shouldn’t be wearing pants.

Depending on the thickness of the piece being held, once removed, you might be able to grab the protruding screw-shank with locking pliers.

Or once the red-piece is removed, slot the shank with a Dremel tool.

The “minor diameter” approach expanded: with a cheap vernier caliper from-harbor freight, Lowes, Home Depot etc., measure an identical screw’s smallest diameter. Lock the caliper then find the drill bit that fits tightest in the vernier’s jaws.

Smooth the protruding screw shank as best as possible. Center punch the exact center. A cheap spring loaded punch will be very helpful here. Marking the target with a felt tip pen is recommended.

If the spring loaded punch makes only a small dent, a hammered punch will now have a good seat. Spend time aligning the drill bit (in the drill) with the screw; get a good idea of what straight looks like from a couple of angles. If the female threads are in a through hole make sure not to damage something behind them as the drill passes through the screw.

Now only the screw’s male threads are left in the hole. Identify the proper size tap. With a cheap a thread gage measure the identical screw’s thread pitch. Get a good quality tap. Chucked in a drill, the tap can be guided better than with a tap-collet. Don’t pull the trigger!, just hand-twist the chuck, every few turns reverse the chuck to clear material. If the female threads are in a through hole the material will be ejected a bit better.

If you end up making the hole too big a heli coil can be used.

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IOM TT said:
Anthony, XB has a very good point. This seems like the best idea yet. I know it will set you back completion-wise but doing this will probably lessen the damage to visible parts.

I apologize if you already know how to do the following, I know how to do it because I’ve screwed the pooch so many times I shouldn’t be wearing pants.

Depending on the thickness of the piece being held, once removed, you might be able to grab the protruding screw-shank with locking pliers.

Or once the red-piece is removed, slot the shank with a Dremel tool.

The “minor diameter” approach expanded: with a cheap vernier caliper from-harbor freight, Lowes, Home Depot etc., measure an identical screw’s smallest diameter. Lock the caliper then find the drill bit that fits tightest in the vernier’s jaws.

Smooth the protruding screw shank as best as possible. Center punch the exact center. A cheap spring loaded punch will be very helpful here. Marking the target with a felt tip pen is recommended.

If the spring loaded punch makes only a small dent, a hammered punch will now have a good seat. Spend time aligning the drill bit (in the drill) with the screw; get a good idea of what straight looks like from a couple of angles. If the female threads are in a through hole make sure not to damage something behind them as the drill passes through the screw.

Now only the screw’s male threads are left in the hole. Identify the proper size tap. With a cheap a thread gage measure the identical screw’s thread pitch. Get a good quality tap. Chucked in a drill, the tap can be guided better than with a tap-collet. Don’t pull the trigger!, just hand-twist the chuck, every few turns reverse the chuck to clear material. If the female threads are in a through hole the material will be ejected a bit better.

If you end up making the hole too big a heli coil can be used.

IMG_0318.jpeg


IMG_0321.jpeg


IMG_0322.jpeg


IMG_0323.jpeg


IMG_0325.jpeg
Click to expand...
I really appreciate all the advice. I’m not the most mechanically inclined so this is all very welcome. Thank you!
 
Master-class advice!
Drilling out the screw is delicate... A little off angle drilling can make a bad issue worse. But done right, this'll get you a working fastener every time (though maybe with a helicoil, time-cert or similar repair).
 
This was one of the common problems that customers brought me when I had my shop. I literally fixed hundred of these, including a very unusual cam cap thread that was a 7mm bolt. After many tries, mostly failures like yours, I accidentally mentioned my problem to a Proto tool distributor. He turned me on to left-handed drill bits and square extractors. I could get most broken bolts out with just the left-handed drills, but if that failed, the square extractors nearly always worked. I had very poor luck with the common screw extractors.

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HR,

Extremely good advice. I’ve seen many helical extractors break nearly flush with the fastener. Very bad situation.

Square extractors are more robust. The left hand drill bits are very helpful too, sometimes the screw comes out during drilling.

I hope it doesn’t come to this but, Anthony can you get access to the back of the fork leg or whatever this screw is stuck in?
 
Update: I talked to a neighbor who is a handyman by trade and he was able to get the bolt out!

Once I get the fender eliminator put on and completed I’ll post a picture.

Thank you again to everyone for your advice and help. This is obviously a great community of good people.
 
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