Day Four - Monday
January 8, 2007
0600 came early, but not as early as the Chicken Bus. As Skinny indicated, there was a steady stream of folks going by our room to gather for the bus from 0400ish on.
Tony Travel Tidbit
Get as far away from the front entry of a hotel as possible!
Back to the story ...
Getting ready to go consisted of putting on my ride gear. I had not planned on packing it, so there was not enough room for the bulk.
Arturo was out front when I stuck my head out about 0530 and we quickly wrapped up getting gear tossed into the truck and Skinny and Gimpmeister (me) headed down to the plaza with our bikes, while they backed the truck up to the edge of the plaza. It would be far easier to lift the bikes 9 inches than 3 feet ...
Loaded ... now to tie them down ...
An aside ...
During our time in Batopilas, I had been struck by the fact that Batopilas was absent trash. I had seen the trash truck about on Saturday, but there was nothing ... NOTHING ... on the ground. The town was virtually spotless. Don’t get me wrong ... I was not complaining.
How did they do it?
It was all the ladies of the town. At 0600 on Monday, while we were loading the bikes, they were everywhere, sweeping leaves and paper that had been blown about. The respect that people showed for the clean town during the day was directly attributable to the efforts of these unseen ladies toiling in the predawn darkness. To say the least, I was impressed.
Back to the story ...
I was impressed by Batopilas, very impressed. I had enjoyed my time there and looked forward to getting back someday soon.
¡Adiós!
¡Gracias!
I will return!
We’re off!
Safely ensconced in the cab of the Ford, we started rolling at 0621 towards Creel. Batopilas was asleep, except for the afore mentioned ladies. The sounds of Mexican oom-pah, quietly mixed with the rhythm of the tires on the cobblestone street, serenaded our departure.
We meandered through town, taking roads that apparently were one way, although not so marked. Did I screw up when I arrived? Probably, but nobody seemed to care.
It was but a short while before we stopped though ... We needed gas, gasolina, motion lotion ... whatever you call it.
A quick beep of the horn, a shout and the light at the “gas station” clicked on. I use the term “gas station” loosely. It was but a hose that snaked out of a hole in the wall of a building. Clearly, this was not a Pemex.
Geo/Political Commentary ...
Capitalism is a great thing and here it was at work. I could only guess, but I suspect that someone (mucho loco for sure) made the trip between Batopilas and civilization to get the gas that flowed into the tank of the Ford. A little markup and everyone was happy. Will the Mexican government ever get it? Who knows, but with a very efficient private mass transit system (Chicken Busses) everywhere there was profit to be made and Carta Blanca Signs in every town that supported more than five people, you would think they would. Based upon the efficiency of the transit system, the “more developed” countries have much to learn though.
Back to the story ...
OK, I went a bit crazy trying to get “the shot” ...
Dawn was coming to the canyon ...
Upward we snaked, unraveling the route of a few days earlier. My lord, it is beautiful as it unfolds in the growing light. Dawn is my favorite time of the day. To experience dawn in La Bufa Canyon was a VERY memorable experience. At some point I point out the window at an airplane. It is heading south down the canyon, as we crawl northward. With pantomime, we learned there was a fly-in development nearby. Oh boy, here comes money.
The crack in the windshield is somehow symbolic of my adventure in life the last few months ...
We stopped at a bridge that I
should have stopped at on Saturday to photograph. Maybe I would not be in a truck right now ...
One more, looking back at the bridge, shrouded in shadows
As we round a blind corner, we are faced with a 1 1/4 ton Ford truck with a stakebed and duallies. Of course, it would be a narrow spot. The passenger jumps out and they back up into the corner as tightly as possible. We ease forward, trucks barely inches apart. Mirrors are folded in as trucks pass. I peer out the passenger window and see about 18 inches of roadway and a huge amount of air beyond the tires of the pickup. Eternity is but a bobble away. Slipping by, we all breath a sigh and grins fill the cab.
Ever understanding the wants of man, we soon encounter a cantina. This cantina is so far away from everything else in the world that I am reminded of “the restaurant at the end of the universe” celebrated by Douglas Adams.
Continuing northward, we soon encounter a caravan ... We have found the Chicken Bus, closely followed by another stakebed truck. The rear of the stakebed is full of people, but not nearly as crowded as the Chicken Bus.
A left blinker comes on and the truck slows. We pass and soon scoot around the Chicken Bus as well. Wow, that sucker is packed!
Rounding a corner, I spy some tents and think this is a silly place for backpackers to set up camp. Whoa, these campers are in camo and carry automatic weapons. We stop and they proceed to poke through our stuff. Not to deeply, just skimming for effect. These are kids, young kids actually. Most appeared to be younger than 20. Soon the Chicken Bus arrives and another soldier apparently asks all the folks standing and sitting in the aisles to disembark. Soon there were 20~25 people milling about and the three guys dealing with us lost interest as they contemplated the number of folks in the bus.
Not a half a mile of dirt remained as we got moving. Soon we were on the asphalt and we headed straight to the Pemex. While we were topping off the Ford, the stakebed headed by on the road. He honked and we all waved and grinned. We did not see the Chicken Bus again until Creel, some 4 hours later.
Back underway, only 75 Km of asphalt lay between us and Creel. The road unraveled quickly and we soon rounded a corner and came to south side of Creel. Never had a town looked so inviting.
Intervention Number Four
Intervention Four proved to be a good thing. Upon arrival in Creel we were greeted by the smiling face of Micah. He had seen us pass and come up to the corner. The sweep riders were back at Margaritas. Cool, back among friends!
Micah had trashed his water pump cover and the troops had rallied around him to get him back on the road.
I volunteered my bike and all except Micah and I headed out to go to Basaseachi Falls. It is after noon, but they were confident that they could make it.
Meanwhile, Micah and I spent the afternoon perusing Creel, purchasing souvenirs for folks at home and getting to know each other.
Being slapped down a couple of days ago hurt, but this slowing down gig was turning out nice. Micah and I had some great conversations going and I found one more really nice person to add to my life.
Soon the sweep riders were back, and for the first time in the entire trip, they did not achieve their goal. Like many goals, Basaseachi Falls was over the horizon, shrouded in the mist of inexperience, when they headed out. There were rumors that asphalt was on the way and that the road was graded, well graded actually. I wasn’t there, but I understand that well graded meant mud, and judging from the front of my bike upon it’s return, goo would be more accurate.
In any case, after cleaning up, we all headed to Tio Molcas for the debriefing.
Roger explaining ...
Tim listening ...
Jeremy
Micah and Skinny
Mike
Gene
The gang ...
Following the debriefing, we rambled back to Margarita’s, consumed dinner and adjourned to the bar in Margarita’s for a nightcap. Skinny and I soon departed for sleep ...
This concludes Day Four ...
Please keep your arms and legs in the car until the ride comes to a complete halt.
Thanks again for coming and enjoy the rest of your adventure here at Six ... oops ... TWT
Oh yea ...
Stop Laughing!!
This is turning into a kick *** ride!