The Adventure Begins... Tejas A La Tierra

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... Burning Rubber Across The Atacama Desert

The northern part of Chile has some amazing scenery... that is if you like the desert.

The desert in northern Chile is known as the Atacama... it is on record as being the driest place in the world.

I don't know why, but I've grown rather fond of riding in the desert. I like the smooth subtle colors and shapes...dunes, sand, rocks, shrubs...earth tones.

And then there is the sky. The sky is blue...always...and it stretches from end to end... blanketing the horizon. There are few clouds...the forecast...little chance of rain. It is the same yesterday...today...tomorrow.

The smooth shapes seem to be formed by the sun and wind. Large formations like mountains, valleys and canyons formed over thousands of years by erosion, expansion and contraction.

Other formations like dunes seem to change before my eyes... growing, shrinking, moving.

It was subtle...

It was dramatic...

And harsh at the same time.

The elements of the desert were all very similar, but the alchemy of it all was kaleidoscopic.

Alejandro and I decided to ride together until he would go his way and I would go my way. We covered some good distance each day...500km...600km.

There were some long stretches of emptiness between the towns in the Atacama. It was nice having a partner along for the ride.

The towns that we stayed in were a blur...resting places...the goal was to ride...to reach the other side.

Arica

Have a BIG Coke and a Big smile

Tocopilla

Tocopilla street dogs...there were lots of them

Chanaral

El Mano del Desierto (The Desert Hand) is a big sculpture in the desert

A BIG stone sculpture

La Serena

In La Serena, Alejandro and I parted ways. He would cut across east to San Juan, Mendoza, San Rafeal...Argentina...for him...home.

I really enjoyed riding alongside Alejandro. A true gentleman adventurer...cultured, curious and moving forward. I hope to see him again down the road.

I would continue south to Santiago.

For the full story visit Burning Rubber

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... Santiago City Walk

See Video

Red, White and Blue with a Lone Star... but it is far from Texas.

It's the Santiago historical district

Passageway in the Bellas Artes district

Painting the town red

Plaza de Armas (Central Park)

Statue of Pedro de Valdivia, founder of Santiago

A day in the park

Bolsa de Chile (Stock Exchange of Chile)

Palacio La Moneda...the presidential palace

Palace Guards

Museo La Moneda

Correos (Post Office)

Museo Historico Nacional

Sculpture by Enrique Villalobos...a tribute to indigenous people.

Sculpture of Salvador Allende...politician.

Opera house

Casa Roja

For the full story visit Santiago City Walk

Location:Santiago, Chile

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... Out On The Town...Santiago

See Video

In the morning, I was walking through the Plaza de Armas (Central Park) and saw a crowd of people huddled around something. I decided that I should check it out. Watch the short video to see what it was.

For lunch, I went to the W hotel and had lunch with my friend Rodrigo who works with a money management firm in Santiago called Capital Advisors. He treated me to a nice meal... I owe you one Rodrigo.

Later that evening these lovely ladies invited me to diner at a restaurant called Tiramisu. How could I resist? Megan (Colorado), Jessie (Buenos Aires) and Lucila (Buenos Aires).

Afterwards we went for drinks. Megan and Jessie got comfortable in these comfy chairs.

Lucila and Megan made life imitate art.

I just kicked back and thought... I'm a lucky guy.

Good times... with good folks.

For the full story visit Out On The Town

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... South Bound From Santiago

In Santiago I picked up some parts for Emi... extra spark plugs, chain and some lube. I still was unable to find new sprockets. I checked three Suzuki dealers, but none of them had the parts in stock. I'm thinking that I may order them online and have them delivered somewhere along my route.

I was hoping to make it to Tierra Del Fuego before the winter sets in. It is usually okay in March, but the weather starts to change in April, so I hear. Cold and rain... I can tolerate it... snow and ice... I think not.

There had been some road blockades and gas shortages in the southern part of Chile due to some protests. I wasn't sure if I would be able to travel through the Lake District where the problems were taking place... but I sort of had a plan.

Unfortunately, I got a late start. I headed south through part of the Chilean wine country. As I rode along the highway through the vinyards I could smell the grapes. Intoxicating. I really wanted to stop and visit some of the vineyards, but I needed to make some distance. I'll have to come back when I have more time.

I rode until the sun began to set. Then I pulled into a town called Linares. Nothing of great interest around... so I asked a police officer where I might be able to stay the night... I was hoping to camp.

He said that it would be okay to camp in the park in front of their office. Sounded good and safe. It was late, so I didn't put up a fight... I just put up my makeshift tent...a ground cover and an lean-to cover hooked to the back of Emi... and laid down for the night.

I got up early the next morning and rode to the town of Pucon. Pucon is known as a adventure tourist town that is overshadowed by a volcano and surrounded by hot springs. Many people climb the volcano, mountain bike the hills and paddle the rivers. In the winter there is skiing. I didn't feel like I had time to enjoy it all. I was being called south. However, in the evening, I was able to visit the hot springs.

From Pucon I traveled to Puerto Montt. From Santiago to Puerto Montt was about 1300 km. Not bad for 3 days of riding.

Puerto Montt is a seaside town that has an active seafood market and...

This...NAVIMAG! NAVIMAG is a ferry that travels from Puerto Montt (Central Chile) to Puerto Natales (Southern Chile). For some reason I like saying NAVIMAG... it just rolls off my tongue.

The journey takes 3 nights and 4 days and is suppose to be pretty scenic. BBC Travel and Leisure sites the NAVIMAG voyage as one of the most beautiful ferry rides in the world. I thought that I should check it out... it might actually be good, save me some time, save me some wear and tear on Emi and most importantly... get me around the gas shortage areas in the Lake District. I'm hoping that I can revisit the Lake District later... after the protests, blockades and gas shortage situation are resolved. I can't take credit for this idea... my friend Rodrigo suggested the route.

So I booked a trip on the Navimag. Me as a passenger. Emi as cargo. We would set sail in 3 days.

For the full story visit Southbound

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... Puerto Montt and More Motorcycle Maintenance

The NAVIMAG ferry was not leaving for 3 days. I decided to check around Puerto Montt for some motorcycle maintenance.

Turns out there was a Suzuki dealer and workshop in Puerto Montt. I took Emi in for an oil change, filter change, lube and valve timing.

I've never done a valve timing, but I watched the mechanic as he did the work. Seems pretty simple. I'll have to try it some day.

I also asked the mechanic to add a carb drainage tube and adjust the idle a little. Emi had been running a little rough. He did it and showed me how to do it. Now I know.

I didn't feel like staying in Puerto Montt for three days, so I decided to visit a town just north called Puerto Varas.

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... Puerto Varas and Frutillar

I stopped by the lakeside town of Puerto Varas. It's a small to midsize town surrounded by hill country and a few volcanos.

I'm not much of a shopper, but the town happened to have stores by some of my favorite brands. The North Face... Salomon...

And Orvis.

I did not buy anything from TNF or Salomon, but I could not resist picking up a new fly reel from Orvis. This is Southern Chile and I'd soon be traveling to Patagonia. Some world class trout fishing is available in the rivers in the area. I could not pass up the opportunity. I have not bought many souvenirs on this trip, so I thought that a nice reel would be an excellent souvenir, especially if I wound up catching a memorable fish.

A simple but bare necessity.

I met a fellow traveler named Eva from Germany and we decided to check out some of the sites.

We made a side trip a town on the other side of the lake called Fruitillar. It's a town that was established by German settlers and it was easy to see the influence in the architecture and food.

We visited the Museo Colonial Aleman (German Colonial Museam).

There were some buildings that demonstrated how the German settlers lived during the colonization of the area.



A dining room.



A blacksmith shop and stable.

See Video

A water powered mill.

Ahh... fresh spring water.

I learned a new German word...kuchen (cake). I found a bakery that had a raspberry meringue kuchen. I ordered it...ate it... and it was gut (good).

For the full story visit Puerto Varas

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... Fly Fishing The Rio Hueno Hueno

When I was visiting the Orvis store I inquired with the shop manager where I should try out my new reel.

He directed me to the Rio Hueno Hueno. It was about a 40km ride east of Puerto Varas. I was hoping that the Rio Hueno Hueno would be bueno bueno.

It had been raining quite a bit over the past few days. Upon my arrival I noticed that the river was quite high and the current was running rather fast.

Near a bridge and down an embankment I found a nice little spot to park Emi.

I prepped my rod and reel.

Then I set off and hiked maybe a quarter mile down the river bank.

I was the first person on the river...not a soul around.

See video

I found a nice piste and started to fish. Magical.

As I mentioned before, the river was high and the current was running fast. Not ideal conditions for trout fishing. Ends up that I could not spot nor catch any fish. Still the endeavor was worthwhile. The ride to the river was fun. The area around the river was beautiful. The weather was cooperating with partly sunny and partly cloudy skies. Just a wonderful day.

As consolation, there were a number of raspberry bushes along the banks of the river. I ate my fill.

I returned to Puerto Varas in the early afternoon. After a taste of fly fishing in Chile...I knew I wanted more.

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... Puerto Montt and NAVIMAG'ing

I returned to Puerto Montt.

I visited the artisan market.

Where they produce various types of woven objects of wool...

And these wooden mates (mugs) for drinking yerba mate.

The artisan market was near the seafood market

Where they had various types of shellfish...

Sea urchins...

And packaged smoked salmon. I bought a package.

There were a number of friendly dogs hanging around ready to pick up scraps.

But I wasn't in Puerto Montt to shop or eat seafood.

I was there to NAVIMAG!

While these people were waiting to board the NAVIMAG

I was boarding with Emi into the cargo deck.

I met some fellow adventure motorcyclists while boarding the NAVIMAG. Jordan and Sandra are from Canada and riding around South America on BMW F650s... and NAVIMAGing.

We set sail.
See Video
It was smooth sailing.

There were a number of people on board that I'd met in the previous week while staying at different hostels... Grant (USA) Eva (Germany) and Joyeeta (USA)

To pass time we played cards, mostly spades. Thomas (Holland), Eva (Germany), Joyeeta (USA) and Monique (Holland).

Settlers of Catan...

The dice version...

and Bingo.

We would eat this this cafeteria.

We'd pass time in this lounge.

We traveled through channels and fjords.

The captain kept us on course from the bridge.

It was cloudy for much of the trip.

But even from inside the scenery was pretty cool.

And once once in a while the skies opened up.

To reveal some of the surrounding mountains and fjords.

Our little ferry was dwarfed by the immensity of our surroundings.

A highlight of the trip was when we passed by this glacier.

Before I knew it, we had reached Puerto Natales and it was time to deboard.

For the full story visit NAVIMAGing

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... The Final Stretch

From Puerto Natales I rode to Punta Arenas.

See Video
The road to Punta Arenas was asphalt, smooth and scenic, but a bit windy.

See Video
I came across this Colombian Adventure Scooter rider who was riding from Colombia to Ushuaia on a Yamaha 125 Scooter.

From Punta Arenas I took a 2 hour ferry ride to the town of Provenir. It was late, so I found an hotel and stayed the night in Provenir.
See Video
From Provenir to San Sebastion, the road was dirt and gravel and through the rain.

In San Sebastian I passed through the Argentinian border post.

The border agent incorrectly stamped my temporary driver permit with an exit stamp instead of an entry stamp. Luckily I caught the error and she corrected it.

I passed through the town of Rio Grande and I knew that I was close.

The scenery changed from desert to coast to forrest.

I was getting close and I knew the end of the road was approaching.

I took a break at this scenic overlook to take it all in.

The overlook had a nice view of a lake and the Girabaldi Pass.

And then I arrived in Ushuaia.

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... Ushuaia...The End Of The World

Well... I made it. An ordinary guy... on an extraordinary adventure. The adventure began in Texas.

Texas a la Tierra... Austin, Texas, USA to Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina... The End of the World...El Fin Del Mundo.

About 13,000 miles (20,000 km) over 5 months.

My trusty girl Emi along for the ride.

Through sun, heat, clouds, cold, wind and rain.

Over asphalt, gravel, dirt and sand... land, air and sea.

Great people, places and adventures along the way.

Time to jump for joy!

There is not much more for me to do...

...other than to head south.

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... When The Road Ends

Ushuaia is known as el fin del mundo (the end of the world). It is the largest city in this isolated part of the world. However, there is actually a smaller town that is 20km further south of Ushuaia called Lapataia. I traveled to Lapataia and sought out the actual end of the road.

This is the end of the road, the marker, Emi and me. Okay, it is official. I hit the end of the road.

The signs says, "Here ends route No. 3"

Here is the view at the end of the road.

And a little beyond.

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... Big Adventure Motorcycle Comparis

See the Video

I thought that some of you might enjoy this adventure motorcycle comparison test: BMW R1200GS vs. KTM 990 Adventure vs. Yamaha Super Tenere. How the big boys stack up against each other side by side.

 

[The Bruce]

Good video and review. Thanks. I am very happy with my choice.

 

[cdc]

So how will you be returning?


From mobile

 

[Coolhand]

Re: The Adventure Begins... When The Road Ends

Here is the view at the end of the road.

And a little beyond.

Those last few shots feel *remote*, wow. Like penguin and leopard seal remote.

 

[Coolhand]

Re: The Adventure Begins... Big Adventure Motorcycle Comparis

See the Video

I thought that some of you might enjoy this adventure motorcycle comparison test: BMW R1200GS vs. KTM 990 Adventure vs. Yamaha Super Tenere. How the big boys stack up against each other side by side.

Those boys can ride those big things...

 

[troyfromtexas]

Good video and review. Thanks. I am very happy with my choice.

No doubt, looks like a sweet ride.

 

[troyfromtexas]

So how will you be returning?


From mobile

I'm making my way north right now. I honestly don't know if I'll ride all the way back or part of the way. There are still some places that I'd like to visit.

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... When The Road Ends

Those last few shots feel *remote*, wow. Like penguin and leopard seal remote.

Stay tuned, there's more to come.

 

[troyfromtexas]

Re: The Adventure Begins... Antarctica

Antarctica...The South Pole...The White Continent...The Seventh Continent...Terra Australis.

While I was in Santiago, Chile I met some travelers that had just returned from Antarctica. They shared with me that in Ushuaia it was possible to book last minute trips to Antarctica at a pretty steep discount. It peaked my interest. I researched it a little bit and found it to be true. But, there was a catch. The arctic exploration season is short, generally lasting about 4 months from late November to early March. I was told the last voyages typically leave the first week of March. I would have to rush.

And so I rushed through Southern Chile riding at a pretty rapid pace. I traveled most days and only stopped for short excursions. I jumped on a ferry which helped me cover quite a bit of ground/sea in a short amount of time.

I arrived in Ushuaia on March 7th

I booked a voyage to Antarctica on March 8th

The ship set sail on March 9th

For the full story visit Antarctica

 

[geargrinder]

Amazing

 

[Coolhand]

Oh my...

 

[The Bruce]

Awesome!

 

[humanrace]

Wow! Wow!! Wow!!!

 

[greeneggs&ham]

"At the base of the glacier was a penguin highway..."

You are Mr. Adventure! Thank you for taking us along.

We look forward to your debriefings.

Sam & Shirley