The DR/DRZ Thread

[rshadoan]

Tank was a good fit. For the stock seat insert to slide into the metal plate on top of the tank I had to drill out the plastic hole for additional space. Wasn’t bad. Intending to order an aftermarket seat to replace this 2x4

That is the same tank i have. I am guessing most people do not check the snubbers. With the seat off...and the radiator shrouds off...and the tank properly bolted at the rear. Lift up on the front of the tank...It “WILL” move, and cause the rear bolted section to flex. It you install the metal tank..and bolt it down...the snubbers properly secure the front of the tank, you can pull up on it and it wont move. Everyone always says..”it goes on easier than my stock tank.”. Which it does..because its not being secured at the front. The black round snubber is not engaging the grooves in the tunnel of the tank.

 

[rshadoan]

Tank was a good fit. For the stock seat insert to slide into the metal plate on top of the tank I had to drill out the plastic hole for additional space. Wasn’t bad. Intending to order an aftermarket seat to replace this 2x4

Additionally, if you get a new seat..grind down the metal tang to fit the seat...if you cut the seat plastic...it could allow slack and the seat to lift from the tank. Basically...instead of making the plastic hole bigger...grind the metal tang to make it narrow and a tight fit to hold on the seat, this will help keep the seat tight agaist the tank, and if you ever want to go back to the stock tank...the seat will still fit firmly as well.

 

[Gabus]

That is the same tank i have. I am guessing most people do not check the snubbers. With the seat off...and the radiator shrouds off...and the tank properly bolted at the rear. Lift up on the front of the tank...It “WILL” move, and cause the rear bolted section to flex. It you install the metal tank..and bolt it down...the snubbers properly secure the front of the tank, you can pull up on it and it wont move. Everyone always says..”it goes on easier than my stock tank.”. Which it does..because its not being secured at the front. The black round snubber is not engaging the grooves in the tunnel of the tank.

What was your solution? The front of my tank does have a little play in the front. But doesn't lift up enough to flex the rear bolt section at all. It feels secure.

In my previous post, if I'm paying $300 for an aftermarket product I expect it to fit perfectly without modification. I'm already a bit disgruntled my kit excluded the petcock rubber O Ring and having to pay Acerbis $6 for another pack and $12 for shipping.

 

[rshadoan]

What was your solution? The front of my tank does have a little play in the front. But doesn't lift up enough to flex the rear bolt section at all. It feels secure.

In my previous post, if I'm paying $300 for an aftermarket product I expect it to fit perfectly without modification. I'm already a bit disgruntled my kit excluded the petcock rubber O Ring and having to pay Acerbis $6 for another pack and $12 for shipping.

I actually called them, and recommended they furnish some larger snubbers with the tank. They said no...so our only option will be to make them yourself, or just live without it and hope your tank does not come off in a crash. There is probably very few people who even address the issue, and that is why Acerbis won’t fix it.....I did not use the plastic petcock that came with my tank. I ordered a metal one. I unfortunately can’t find a link to the one i ordered. I have not fixed the problem on my bike yet...I just removed the Acerbis and put the metal tank back on....the next time I go to install the Acerbis I will pick up some rubber stops I saw at my local Ace Hardware and try to make those work...by drilling a hole and shaving them to fit. I swap my bike between SM and Dual Sport by swapping the rims and just putting the metal tank bank on. I have two chains as well. 110 & 112 link, plus the two different speedo gearboxes for the difference in front wheel diameters. As you know, I really need the extra fuel range on the dual sport/Adv rides. I also swap out crash bars for luggage racks.

 

[macytd]

My JD Jet kit came with new screws... you only see them after the carb is installed back on the bike.

 

[rshadoan]

Home depot also has button head replacements in their metric bins.

 

[Hellwig]

Some time back I picked up a buddies old drz 400e.
After a lot of half hearted attempts at carb tuning, with the assumption that since this was a friend's bike it had to be jetted correctly, I finally yanked the carb out of it again, a few weeks back and actually recorded the jets and needle for comparison to what it should be.
It was way off on main and a few off on pilot. I used thumper talks excel file to find a range and ordered parts. Most of them were using a different needle than stock so I ordered that as well.
An amazing thing happened,
The bike fired right up without use of starting fluid. Then after a little fiddling starts without choking.

My lesson re learned is not to assume.

This is my second drzE and I should have done this from the start but, If I had bought it from someone else I would have.

Nice to have the old fat girl running.
It still has a little overloading issue from the accel pump and a wot bog from idle, but I will get that sorted now that it will actually start and idle. Who knows I might even actually be able to read a spark plug now.

Keep wrenching and riding!

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

 

[bwdmax]

It is satisfying to hear one come to life after you have wrestled with it a few rounds.

Not a DRZ but I worked on a carb last week and went to verify the jetting and not only do I have to have a magnifying glass to see those numbers, I need the lighting just right now too. So now it is glasses, magnifying glass and perfect light. I may need to get one of those lamps that is a magnifier and light in one.

 

[gixxerjasen]

That's awesome, I'm still messing with the carb on my E, got it almost there, but I'm not so good at the carb thing, got to stay with it and get it all the way there.

 

[OldTLSDoug]

It is satisfying to hear one come to life after you have wrestled with it a few rounds.

Not a DRZ but I worked on a carb last week and went to verify the jetting and not only do I have to have a magnifying glass to see those numbers, I need the lighting just right now too. So now it is glasses, magnifying glass and perfect light. I may need to get one of those lamps that is a magnifier and light in one.

You know my phone has a magnifier app that lets me read them fine. I also have a 10 diopter magnifier with a light for the difficult ones.

 

[bwdmax]

You know my phone has a magnifier app that lets me read them fine. I also have a 10 diopter magnifier with a light for the difficult ones.

Thanks Doug. I found an app and installed it and wow that thing works great.

 

[SilverBullet]

Thanks Doug. I found an app and installed it and wow that thing works great.

Or just take a photo and then zoom in. Works in blind situations also.

 

[bwdmax]

Or just take a photo and then zoom in. Works in blind situations also.

Tried that also and it was still hard to make out. I'll take all the help i get now days.

The app i installed lets you zoom in and out and adjust the light brightness on the phone to get it all in focus and then you can tap the screen and capture a pic of it.

 

[OldTLSDoug]

Did I mention I also wear 2.75 readers?

 

[Gabus]

So finally received the O Ring for Acerbis Petcock. After pouring fuel into tank with no leaks it was time to see how it ran after all the work I did. My bike sputtered, wasn't starting, give some choke, it burped, gave some throttle and it started. Problem now is if I let go of the throttle completely it dies. So I'm assuming I need to adjust the throttle cable? If I just barely twist the throttle it will idle. I did mess with the idle adjustment on the carb. Although I keep thinking the throttle cable needs the attention for the bike to start and idle freely? This is after installing the Jetting Kit and Acerbis tank.

 

[Gabus]

After sitting here thinking about it. It has to be the carb idle adjustment. If I twist the throttle just a CH it will idle.

 

[rshadoan]

After sitting here thinking about it. It has to be the carb idle adjustment. If I twist the throttle just a CH it will idle.

The throttle should have slack in it....absolutely do not adjust the idle with the throttle cables. There is a specific measurement on one of the bolt housings on the cable to carb attachment point. Middle picture on page below....measurement “A”

 

[Hellwig]

new unit of measurement? That's where i would start - Idle screw, but only a CH or so..

 

[rshadoan]

Check to make sure you got the intake boots on good and no air leaks. Be sure to have capped the vac port on the carb since you are no longer using the stock petcock. i just removed the hose and got some plugs from auto zone.

 

[Gabus]

I think so also. Although I cannot remember which turn opens the throttle body just a bit? Twist left or right?

 

[Gabus]

Check to make sure you got the intake boots on good and no air leaks. Be sure to have capped the vac port on the carb since you are no longer using the stock petcock. i just removed the hose and got some plugs from auto zone.

Ah I don’t think I did this. Amateur mechanic here. Boots are good and tight. Vac port on carb. Okay need help

 

[rshadoan]

Ah I don’t think I did this. Amateur mechanic here. Boots are good and tight. Vac port on carb. Okay need help

There were two hoses on your stock petcock...one to deliver fuel to the carb....the other was a vacuum line from the carb to the petcock. The stock petcock has no “off” position, it is operated by vacuum from the carb. since you removed the stock petcock....the port on the carb that had the vacuum line needs to be capped, or else you have a vacuum leak. pic is of hose on stock petcock...i dont have a pick on the carb side but thats the vacuum hose.

 

[Gabus]

There were two hoses on your stock petcock...one to deliver fuel to the carb....the other was a vacuum line from the carb to the petcock. The stock petcock has no “off” position, it is operated by vacuum from the carb. since you removed the stock petcock....the port on the carb that had the vacuum line needs to be capped, or else you have a vacuum leak. pic is of hose on stock petcock...i dont have a pick on the carb side but thats the vacuum hose.

Thanks I’ll look closely tomorrow and report back. Appreciate your help

 

[rshadoan]

Thanks I’ll look closely tomorrow and report back. Appreciate your help

found a diagram...and labeled it vac port....Just cap that off, with rubber caps from any auto parts store.

 

[Gabus]

found a diagram...and labeled it vac port....Just cap that off, with rubber caps from any auto parts store.

Thanks, it's making sense now, well some of it. I need a manual. Can you tell me what this is? Do you have a diagram? I have the other tube. Work in progress....