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The DR/DRZ Thread

I need a longer ride to gain confidence, but I think I have it fixed. The short version is the manual isn't real helpful in setting the float level. This thread from Thumper Talk, particularly the post by Noble, the picture from Kelso and the last comment by BurnCycle are much better. Setting the fuel level with the carb at an angle is best, but is a little subjective. Harley Davidson gets pretty specific on what angles to use in setting the float. I wound up kinda winging the angle.

The medium length version is that the little spring on the bottom of the needle assembly has to be accounted for. From my limited experience working on motorcycle carbs, that spring is common. Most of my experience comes from automotive or aircraft carbs that do not have such a thing. The bottom line is that setting the level with the carb upside down with the float hanging under it's own weight like I did, will result in a reasonable fuel level in the bowl, but it won't allow the needle to lower enough to quickly get gas into the carb under high use conditions. It doesn't come off of the seat far enough. The difference in fuel flow through the needle the way I set the carb and the way the TT thread says to set it is significant. The way I did it would keep enough gas in the carb to putter around and lightly accelerate, but not for heavy acceleration or high speed. I ran the bike on my rack for quite some time with a tube on it so I could watch the fuel level, and without a load I couldn't get the fuel level to drop enough to cause a problem. I watched it for quite some time and revved it more than I should have. On the road under a load I could get it to act up pretty quickly.

The long version would use words that aren't welcomed here. I will say thought that the Harley manuals are way better written than the Suzuki manual. I found the Harley stuff early on and I should have taken it to heart quicker. Live and learn. I have now learned more about CV carburetors than I really wanted to know.
 
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This may not be in the correct thread but thought I would give it a shot. I am not a mechanic so I just have to trust my mechanic who I believe is trustworthy. Below is my story.
So I took my 03 DRZ250 into the mechanic because it was not idling good. He called me and told me he has tried everything to get the bike to idle and believes it is a stator assembly and/or the CDI unit. Both of these items are over $300.00 and 500.00 new respectively. He has fought issues like this on other Suzuki models. He said if it was him he wouldn't take a chance putting this much money into the bike but he would do what I wanted to do. My feeling is to take his advice and forget fixing this bike, even though I love the bike and it fits me perfect. Taking that money and put it toward something new. The new CRF250F is very tempting. Kind of "gun shy" buying another used bike. What do you guys think? Any ideas about fixing the bike on the cheap? Maybe something that was overlooked?
Thanx for your information
 
I will assume that your mechanic eliminated the most probable cause of a bike not idling correctly, ie clogged pilot jet. Another possibility is low compression, a burned valve or a valve with clearance too tight. Find someone with the same bike and switch the ignition units. That would be relatively simple. Switching the stator would be a little more involved.
 
I will assume that your mechanic eliminated the most probable cause of a bike not idling correctly, ie clogged pilot jet. Another possibility is low compression, a burned valve or a valve with clearance too tight. Find someone with the same bike and switch the ignition units. That would be relatively simple. Switching the stator would be a little more involved.
He cleaned the carb and then double checked. He said the internals of the motor were good. Finding someone with the same bike is the problem. I did see a post that talked about running a different spark plug helped their bike idle and run better but don't know if that would apply in this case. Found some used stators and CDI units on ebay but not comfortable purchasing these devices used. I also found Chinese replacement stators but my mechanic warned against those.
 
I bought cheap CDI knock-offs for XR650Ls and never had an issue.
$100 vs scrapping a bike you love ... seems like a no brainer to me.
 
It didn't on the XRs I installed them on.
They basically control spark and spark timing.

Realize, though, in regards to your problem, all any of us can go on is what you've posted about a conversation your mechanic has shared.
So will it fix the issue? who knows.
 
how well do you trust your mechanics skill- I am not trying to create doubt, but did he test the electrical system per suzuki spec to arrive at this conclusion?
 
how well do you trust your mechanics skill- I am not trying to create doubt, but did he test the electrical system per suzuki spec to arrive at this conclusion?
I’ll have to check with him. I trust his skill and honesty.
 
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I’ll have to check with him. I trust his skill and honesty.
I talked to him today and he is pretty certain it is the pickup coil. Of course Suzuki does not sell the p.c. seperately. I did find a Pickup coil and/or the whole stator assembly much cheaper than OEM from Ricky Stator. Don't know much about them. Are they a reputable place.
 
I have my doubts, only because there are well known methods to test an alternator/stator. While sometimes the result could be inconclusive, there are usually some results than can either rule it out entirely or confirm its the cause of the problem. It's hard to tell if your mechanic even performed such diagnosis, and I get the feeling he came to his conclusion based on experience.

At the very least you can take the stator cover off and do a visual inspection. You will need a new gasket to put it back together, and likely add some oil. I don't know about your bike specifically, but many will leak at least some oil when removing the stator cover.

As for the CDI... I don't know much about these and if you have to find a donor from the exact bike or if they are somewhat universal... Your best bet is likely to find a used one from a bike that's been totaled and is being parted out..

As for the actual issue... So it doesnt idle good... Does it ride just fine, otherwise? If so, I would find it strange that the alternator and/or CDI would have issues at low RPMs but work fine at higher RPMs...

If he believes the issue to be electrical, has he tried a new, fresh battery?

Hard to offer up advice without knowing how or why he came to his conclusion and what steps have already been taken.
 
Question: is there a place locally in Austin where I can get an air filter for a DRZ400? If not, what's a good place online to get one. Thanks!
 
Rocky Mountain ATV has always been competitively priced, quick to ship and at my door in a couple days.


Twin Air and Uni have been good choices for me so far.
 
I have my doubts, only because there are well known methods to test an alternator/stator. While sometimes the result could be inconclusive, there are usually some results than can either rule it out entirely or confirm its the cause of the problem. It's hard to tell if your mechanic even performed such diagnosis, and I get the feeling he came to his conclusion based on experience.

At the very least you can take the stator cover off and do a visual inspection. You will need a new gasket to put it back together, and likely add some oil. I don't know about your bike specifically, but many will leak at least some oil when removing the stator cover.

As for the CDI... I don't know much about these and if you have to find a donor from the exact bike or if they are somewhat universal... Your best bet is likely to find a used one from a bike that's been totaled and is being parted out..

As for the actual issue... So it doesnt idle good... Does it ride just fine, otherwise? If so, I would find it strange that the alternator and/or CDI would have issues at low RPMs but work fine at higher RPMs...

If he believes the issue to be electrical, has he tried a new, fresh battery?

Hard to offer up advice without knowing how or why he came to his conclusion and what steps have already been taken.

When I first read the post from texbear, I totally agreed with this post. After I talked to a mechanic that I trained 30 years ago, I slightly changed my mind. The methods, in most service manuals, will give different results with different multimeters. Most manuals specify which meter to use. Even using the recommended meter, a mechanic can get an incorrect reading, especially if the part is working part of the time. I have seen good parts ohm out as bad parts and known good parts ohm out as bad.
 
Rocky Mountain ATV has always been competitively priced, quick to ship and at my door in a couple days.


Twin Air and Uni have been good choices for me so far.
Perfect, thanks!
 
Drz getting long in the tooth!
Broke off a tank mounting nut yesterday while attempting to reattach the tank. Can’t get a back up on it, guess I’ll drill out the bolt head.
Of course it’s right before I plan to use it.
Does anyone know what size those nuts are? I attempted to get a 10 on it but can barely touch it much less hold anything on it with the tank and rads still attached.


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It looks like I need a new fuel line between the petcock and the carb... What should the inside diameter of the fuel line be for 2006 S model?

TIA - Jim

235070
 
If the stock one is 8mm (0.315") then 5/16 (0.3125") would be a much nicer fit.


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Fellow z lovers,
Just checking to see if anyone has spare/ used drz 400 clutch parts- don’t ask how but Baja broke my clutch hub sleeve
Suzuki part 21410-20F00

c93a354eadde9e4791b5a6027290cd52.jpg


Number 4 in this pic.

Thanks!



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There is a guy in Austin parting one out, I just bought a seat from him. What part of the state are you in?
 
Anyone ever used an electric vest while riding a DRZ400? Will the electric system handle it or should I install a switch to turn off the headlight while using the vest. Mine pulls about 4 amps.
 
So, you love your DR-Z400SM with the big bore, the head and valve work, the FCR39MX and the MRD exhaust, but you are tired of killing batteries (yep, big battery kit installed) because there is no decompressor on the cams (2003-1IN and 2003-1EX Hot Cams). Lift is .958 and duration is 243° with 108° lobe centers. The new style Stage II hot cams are .907 with 238° and 107.4° lobe centers, but mostly they have a decompressor on the EX cam. So I just ordered a set. Probably will sell off my 2003's. Also I will be installing a kickstarter kit since it will work now. Should make the scooter more useful less of a ragged edge.

Anyway, wondering how much main jet I should drop. Not sure what is in there, but it is spot on with the big ones. Open to opinions.

IMG_1296.jpg


IMG_1303.jpg
 
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