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The DR/DRZ Thread

I'll default to E.Marquez or OldTLSDoug.
EM is a DRZ sensei and Doug is DRZ-Yoda

I'd just try and start it. If it fires, shut it down immediately.

Change the oil and filter. Does the oil smell like fuel?

If so, you should look into a car cleaning and rebuild and maybe even a petcock rebuild.
I would also flush the fuel tank.

If not, I bet you are good.

I would also check the air box for oil residue and get a new filter.

Checking the coolant level would be wise as well.
 
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Re: DRZ400s question

My son's DRZ400s has been sitting in my garage. It has not been run since November of last year. I want to get it running again, but don't know if I should just try to start it; or if I should empty the gas tank, refill it and then try to start it; or if I should have the carburetor cleaned gas tank emptied and then restarted.
I had issues with carb gunking up really fast on a TTR125; so I would appreciate any advice.

Drain the oil and refill mostly as a way to confirm no gas leaked into the case as is common with stored DRZ's And at less then 2 gt, cheap insurance, good maintenance practice all around. (In a perfect world, you would put the bike in to storage with a fresh oil change and topped off gas tank no air, using Race gas).
Remember, do not reuse the OEM case drain plug crush washer, if you use a new OEM crush washer, install it correctly
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and go easy on tightening.
Other wise you get this early B day present
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And try and start with a jump battery connected,,,,,,,,It wont start, or it will and wont idle :giveup: But no harm in trying strange things can go right.

When it wont start or wont idle, drain old gas, and clean carb.... Sonic tank would be best, but baring that, go on line and order a can of PM3 Motorcraft - Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner. Its banned in Uk and EU countries and CA///So you know its good stuff..... But really it does work best I have found.. NO RUBBER PARTS.

Disassemble the carb completely. Plan on replacing the O ring at the fuel valve seat it will be bad. Its an Odd size 7.75 I.D. x 1.53mm , only available from a few sources I know of....the needle and seat will likely be ok and not need replacement, but the full set is all the OEM has. I'll post two other sources for just the o ring later.

EDIT Ok its later ...LOL https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/002_709_su.html

http://www.nichecycle.com/ncs/categ.../kv-10-o-ring-for-needle-valve-by-mikuni.html

And there is another source on Amazon pack of 10 for $3.00 ..... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQZRF9U/?tag=twowhetex-20
LOL, well it was $3 till we bought him out, 1000 packets in a week..and now that he restocked, the price went up to $6.43 ....And he is out again, sorry, just bought the last pack a few min ago. I was giving them out, but as his pricing keeps going up, cant do that any more.

Check each passage with a shot of brake clean .. Personally Id toss the pilot and starter jets and install new. The main is easily cleaned. If you have the correct jet cleaner tool, the others can be cleaned. I do, and still toss them often as its not worth my time and once clogged, they always seem to clog again sooner next time.

Once gas, carb and oil is addressed, give her a start, check for gas, coolant and oil leaks, if you have a volt meter, check charging voltage, 13.2 or better and your ok, with the "free Power Mod, you should be at 14.2~14.8 wihch is better.
 

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Hey Mitch, why are you recommending cleaning the car?

I think we have run across a potential spelling error, sir. I think you guys handled it.

Erik, thanks for confirming for me that I put my oil drain washer on correctly. I looked at the new one, and went for it. I think I had been using copper washers until this oil change because Gixxerjasen included them in the spares when I bought her back.
 
Hey Mitch, why are you recommending cleaning the car?

I think we have run across a potential spelling error, sir. I think you guys handled it.

Erik, thanks for confirming for me that I put my oil drain washer on correctly. I looked at the new one, and went for it. I think I had been using copper washers until this oil change because Gixxerjasen included them in the spares when I bought her back.
I'm fine with plain copper washers on this motor, they work great. I keep the OEM ones on hand, as a CYA thing since I'm putting them others motors.

The issue with installing the washer wrong, or reusing it over and over is it forms a nice wedge,
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Driving the wedge into the case, and the case fractures as seen above .
And the nice thing as its really repeatable, had one guy try his luck twice ...yup broke two cases
 

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Erik, thanks for confirming for me that I put my oil drain washer on correctly. I looked at the new one, and went for it. I think I had been using copper washers until this oil change because Gixxerjasen included them in the spares when I bought her back.

If it'd realized I wasn't done with DRZ's I'd have kept the tackle box of spares I built. Had to build another one. Thank goodness for the spreadsheet. Oh well, all well in the end, right? :D
 
I think you and I are both never going to be finished with the DR-Z. You are on your 3rd one, I am on number four, I think we should never sell them. I do have a motor that was very ill. It ate the lower rod bearing. I am thinking I can build a new motor for mine with it, only just the head. This one has the head machined for the compression release, and that gets me an inch closer to a kicker motor. I think that would be sweet.
 
I have two in my garage. Does that count?
 
I think you and I are both never going to be finished with the DR-Z. You are on your 3rd one, I am on number four, I think we should never sell them. I do have a motor that was very ill. It ate the lower rod bearing. I am thinking I can build a new motor for mine with it, only just the head. This one has the head machined for the compression release, and that gets me an inch closer to a kicker motor. I think that would be sweet.

I stand corrected, I believe I am on my 5th and the first time I have ever owned 2 at the same time. Mitchntx is killing me. He was standing right there when I told my wife and he didn't flinch away or nothing. Cheeky that Mitch.

Tossed out the bait, hooked me and landed me. Now I am a fillet.
 
I was closer to the door than she was and still had my riding gear on.
 
I knew you weren't scared of her Mitch, she is actually pretty dang cool. Indulges my motorcycle habit, can't do much better than that.
 
Is there any difference in S and E exhaust? I found one the says its for an E but it looks just like an S.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
I defer to Erik on this one, as I have no clue, but odds are there might be since they have different sub-frames. But, as I said, Erik knows, I do not.
 
Is there any difference in S and E exhaust? I found one the says its for an E but it looks just like an S.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Header is slightly larger diameter on E and the mid mount is different location.

Side by side you can see the mid mount difference pretty easy
 
Well, where else would this be appropriate?

Brought home the DR-Z after picking it up at Mitchntx's place. He almost killed himself catching it when he tipped it over on the lift. Heroically and with great pain and suffering he avoided the drop. (I would have not cared had he dropped it if he didn't get hurt)

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Then I had to redo the license plate mount to make my OCD happy...

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Then we squared up Mr. Full Exhaust

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The spacer had been "modified" by a previous owner, but through trial and error I figured out a close spacer. I used a nutsert for the sleeve inside the rubber bushing, this thing is custom baby.

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Then I realized I really hated the buddy peg on the right side exhaust bracket. So I got out Mr. Plasma Cutter...I loves me some melted metal. It took longer to plug it in and run the air line over and hook it up than the 8 seconds to cut it.

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A little grinding and a severe lack of any sort of black spray paint caused me to go with the aluminum look. This is the paint I bought to match stock Miata wheels....

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Squared away again....

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Ready to play!

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The good thing about TWTs and this thread are that DR-Z guys are awesome, loyal and good friends. Dances with Curves (Chris) had saved all the Swag I had given him for DR-Zs and gifted it back. A complete brand new Vapor and associated dashboard with a speed gear spacer from DRC. A set of hoses, DR-Z swingarm stickers

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He loves me more, I changed his cams and fixed his flat....that I got while riding his bike...he survived the wadding of the SD.....and we don't like yellow bikes, just saying...
 
from downtown .... <woosh> ... nuttin' but net
 
So, today, I continued in my journey to make my DR-Z400S more of a modified scooter. So I added a kickstarter. After all, Mitch and I decided since he flushed the E frame for several days to make sure there was no more babbit material in it, that I should do an early oil change. Well, Mitch nailed it, nothing in the oil but beautiful clean oil, so sad to toss it and the filter out. BUT! I had some nice Royal Purple to put in and a lot of spare filters. Since I was changing the oil, I decided to install the kickstart kit I had purchased (I have another one for my SM, but it doesn't need an oil change yet). I noticed a nice JB Weld repair that looks old and doesn't leak, so even though I have a spare, I felt no need to change it. Here are a couple of nice pictures. I used the FAQ pictures to refresh my memory. Took about an hour. Fiddling around filling the coolant system took about a third of that. But she fires right up on the kicker. I also trimmed a close contact spot between the skid plate and pipe. Then I discovered I could also adjust the plate away from the pipe a bit, all is good. Somewhere along the way I also did a front braided line and pads. I have a rear to come shortly.

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