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The DR/DRZ Thread

Erik,

I used an impact with a 10 mm allen socket. The wrench wouldn't turn. I have one more socket to try (I remembered I have a set of 1/2 in drive impact allen sockets. But I may end up with the drill and/or chisel. I have never seen one so stuck. I really don't need to get it off, it is just convenient to rotate the engine with the wrench. Of course, I do have the kickstarter.



Not sure what you’re using for an impact
but even my smallest 3/8 drive snap on electric would cause the aluminum material to yield before the impact stalled

Bottom line hit it with the biggest impact gun you’ve got
It will come out or the hex will round out

This is one of those times slow and steady causes more failures then brute strength don’t baby it
 
Well I have a DeWalt 20 VDC impact. Supposed to be 400 ft-lbs. I also have a Kobalt ac powered one I will try a little later. The DeWalt wouldn't budge it, that is a little worrisome. Like we both said, should be off by now.
 
Well I have a DeWalt 20 VDC impact. Supposed to be 400 ft-lbs. I also have a Kobalt ac powered one I will try a little later. The DeWalt wouldn't budge it, that is a little worrisome. Like we both said, should be off by now.



Definitely try the other impact I’m going to guess the first one isn’t giving you what it’s rated for.

Even slightly tight and passed the ring seat they bind really easily as I’m sure you know.
Is this a OEM plug or after market I can’t say why but my experience is the aftermarket anodized ones stick more easily and more often than the original plug

The good news is due to the design and placement of the O-ring the thread don’t getting a correction as they’re constantly Bathed in oil

And less somebody use some Loctite 680 stud and bearing mount on the thread… LOL
 
I will try it when we get back from riding tomorrow. It is a stock plug, but oddly, it is painted black. I have some spares if I can get it out.
 
Just curious, does your impact gun have the little lever to select the amount of torque? Not trying to be mean here, I've even spent time troubleshooting a bike with the kill switch turned off, so it's possible this could be the case.
 
Just curious, does your impact gun have the little lever to select the amount of torque? Not trying to be mean here, I've even spent time troubleshooting a bike with the kill switch turned off, so it's possible this could be the case.

Nope, I bought one that is moron proof. It changes speed/torque with the trigger. The ac one I have does as well. I will give it a shot this afternoon after the ride.:rider:
 
For the record, the big gun did the plug in. Still in there with a nice round hole. So I am taking the cover off and installing my spare. Only bad part is no O-ring for the plug. Thought I had a spare, but I do not. I may send the old one to Erik to see if he can get her loose.
 
Update, got it off. For the record, I took the cover off, screwed it to a 2X12 screwed to the work bench. Then I put a groove in it with the dremel. Then using a good sized cold chisel and a 5 lb sledge hammer, I got it off. Whew.

Things that failed.

My 350 ft-lb electric impact with impact sockets just rounded her out.

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Result? Round Hole

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Erik was right, it will come out.

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While I was there I checked the valve clearances, dead center, perfect. No more issues, put the manual cam chain tensioner in and then I overfilled the oil. Pretty good DR-Z day.

20180708_1450201.jpg
 
I'm on my third DRZ, fourth if you count my DR-650. It's main purpose is Jeep roads in NM, CO, AZ and UT, although I have ridden 2 days in excess of 600 miles on rides back from Colorado and Arkansas. I'm 70, less than 5'8" and my wife rides with me. Combined weight with luggage is close to 350#. The bike that used to be great is now too tall. Has anyone lowered their DRZ400 by as much as 2"? My alternative would probably be an XT250 with a different shock and modified springs. Thoughts?
 
I'm on my third DRZ, fourth if you count my DR-650. It's main purpose is Jeep roads in NM, CO, AZ and UT, although I have ridden 2 days in excess of 600 miles on rides back from Colorado and Arkansas. I'm 70, less than 5'8" and my wife rides with me. Combined weight with luggage is close to 350#. The bike that used to be great is now too tall. Has anyone lowered their DRZ400 by as much as 2"? My alternative would probably be an XT250 with a different shock and modified springs. Thoughts?
Yes I have lowered many a DRZ.

Please do not use lowering links, it makes a less than great stock suspension much much worse. To those you hear say they use lowering links and they work fine... its only that they have nothing to compare to. My go to quote for that is
"The best you've ridden is the best you know!" - Paul Thede

Internally lowering both fork and shock coupled with the correct spring is the better option.
Best option would be that and valving to work optimally with the decreased stroke.

2 In is a lot to lower a DRZ, doable if really needed, but a lot none the less. If you can handle somewhat taller seat , limit lowing to 1.5"
 
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I lowered mine via internal spacers. I went down 1.5 in in the fork and 3/4 in in the shock. That has been perfect. Of course, I have a DR-Z400SM, so it started lower. I noticed my DR-Z400S is getting easier to get on and off of, mainly because I am getting used to it. I used Roger Albert of Onraod/Offroad, he did Gold Valves at the same time, plus I had heavier springs already. Really works well, I can ride it a long way or bang it around on the racetrack and she never complains or does anything strange. If you are ever near Glen Rose, you are welcome to come by and sit on her and/or ride her.
 
I had a little argument with friends about the DRZ400S AND DRZ400SM carbs. I thought they were the same, but part numbers are different and aftermarket jet kits are different. Anybody Know what the difference is and why?
 
I had a little argument with friends about the DRZ400S AND DRZ400SM carbs. I thought they were the same, but part numbers are different and aftermarket jet kits are different. Anybody Know what the difference is and why?



It’s not an across-the-board deal
there are 4 flavors of mikuni BSR36 carburetors
Emission this emission that, no emission anything and a restricted one for places with tiered licensing

it’s country or state use on code not model
 
A question for the DRZ hive mind-I'm looking at some mods for 2005 over the winter, including swapping out the stock headlight with JNS leds. I'd love to swap out the stock shroud/fairing as well, but don't see a lot of options other than the Lynx, which seems a little pricey. Any other options I should consider? I'm not married to the JNS lights, so if another fairing/light combo works better, I'll happily consider it.
 
A question for the DRZ hive mind-I'm looking at some mods for 2005 over the winter, including swapping out the stock headlight with JNS leds. I'd love to swap out the stock shroud/fairing as well, but don't see a lot of options other than the Lynx, which seems a little pricey. Any other options I should consider? I'm not married to the JNS lights, so if another fairing/light combo works better, I'll happily consider it.
I have a crap aftermarket headlight and have been looking and you can either pay big $$$ it seems, or ride an alien looking bike around.
 
I have no experience with the less expensive lighting options

The Trail Tech X2 is all but useless as it comes
And several hundred $$$ spent at ADV Monster lights makes it pretty good

And lately the Baja Designs Squadron light has been a popular install for my guys..... but not cheap at all

The light is simply outstanding though
 
I'm being frustrated by a carb. The bike only got 25 miles on it last year and when I went to try and start it, it didn't want to behave. It needed full throttle to stay running and there was fuel in the oil. I finally got around to pulling the carb and to my surprise it looked very good inside. The needle didn't seem to be bound, but the o ring that goes around the seat assembly was as bad as an o ring can get. I changed a couple of o rings and went ahead and put new jets in just because I had some on hand. The bike starts very easily and runs good on the rack. I put it on the road today and not so good on the road with a load. It acts as if it has a clogged fuel filter or like it's running out of gas if I ask for much from it. I can put around on it just fine. There is not a filter other than the screen on the pick up. The petcock doesn't flow quite as much gas as I think it should, but it does flow enough that I think it should be supplying this engine without trouble. I checked the float level with a clear tube and I think if anything it's probably a bit high. It looks like it's a mm or two above the bowl split. I set the level with the carb upside down as mentioned in the manual, but I notice that there is a mention of having the float just in contact with the seat and that some people set the level with the carb at an angle. I'm thinking that I need to pull it and check the float level again, but I would have expected it to have checked lower with the tube than it did. It's going to be a couple of days before I can get back to it again, and I'd appreciate being armed with any thoughts or ideas you guys might have when I can.
 
Is the tank venting or breathing properly ? I had problems with a bike with similar scenario. You could loosen the cap and it ran ok. Changed the cap out, no more problems.
 
Pull the air filter even if it looks new to see if the under side in deteriorating..... my buddies drz400s filter looked brand new, but was falling apart and clogging air flow.
 
Is the tank venting or breathing properly ? I had problems with a bike with similar scenario. You could loosen the cap and it ran OK. Changed the cap out, no more problems.

I'd already checked for that, but I thought the check valve in the gas cap shoulda been passing more air, so I experimented some more and ran up and down the street with the cap completely off and it didn't change anything.

Pull the air filter even if it looks new to see if the under side in deteriorating..... my buddies drz400s filter looked brand new, but was falling apart and clogging air flow.

I had noticed the air filter was deteriorating and had already ordered one when I saw your post. I was hoping that since I'd noticed something similar to what you described we would have a simple fix, but no joy. It actually may be running just a bit better, but the basic problem is still there.

I'm pretty befuddled. If anything, the float level is a bit high and I'm getting some popping in the exhaust as if it was rich, but there's no black smoke and the plug has a really nice tan color. The bike starts very easily, accelerates nicely and putters around just fine, but If I maintain anything from at 5 - 6000 RPM up, it will act kinda like it ran out of gas pretty quickly. Sometimes I can let off and it will stay running and other times it will die. It takes a minute before I can start it again if it dies. There's a particular sound this bike makes when it runs out of gas and I'm not hearing it. Instead it just kinda rolls back the rpm. On the rack, I can run it at those RPM's and the engine speed will vary a few hundred RPM, but it will never die. I do hear some popping in the exhaust. I checked the fuel level in the carb while it was at about 5500 RPM and it looks good and steady.

I'd pull the carb back out, but other than checking the float level, I don't know what I'd do to it.

Do you guys check the float level with it upside down, or do you hold it at an angle with the float just on the needle as some folks describe? I'm up for anyother ideas you might have too.
 
Something's got to be stopping up the gas flow, so that's anywhere from inside the tank (clogged filter sock?), to the petcock, to the fuel line itself, to a float valve clogging up, to the main jet stopping up, or something. Something's gotta be gotten out of the system before it's going to run okay. You just have to find it. Maybe a piece of gasket or similar has gotten into the float chamber and while running, the gas flow causes it to move over to a jet and impedes fuel flow, which then causes it to sputter and run poorly. When stopped it could float/move off the jet, letting your restart. Start removing stuff, cleaning it out/off, replace, move on to another. You're prolly going to have to remove that carb again sooner or later. I know - I hated doing it also.
 
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I'd already checked for that, but I thought the check valve in the gas cap shoulda been passing more air, so I experimented some more and ran up and down the street with the cap completely off and it didn't change anything.



I had noticed the air filter was deteriorating and had already ordered one when I saw your post. I was hoping that since I'd noticed something similar to what you described we would have a simple fix, but no joy. It actually may be running just a bit better, but the basic problem is still there.

I'm pretty befuddled. If anything, the float level is a bit high and I'm getting some popping in the exhaust as if it was rich, but there's no black smoke and the plug has a really nice tan color. The bike starts very easily, accelerates nicely and putters around just fine, but If I maintain anything from at 5 - 6000 RPM up, it will act kinda like it ran out of gas pretty quickly. Sometimes I can let off and it will stay running and other times it will die. It takes a minute before I can start it again if it dies. There's a particular sound this bike makes when it runs out of gas and I'm not hearing it. Instead it just kinda rolls back the rpm. On the rack, I can run it at those RPM's and the engine speed will vary a few hundred RPM, but it will never die. I do hear some popping in the exhaust. I checked the fuel level in the carb while it was at about 5500 RPM and it looks good and steady.

I'd pull the carb back out, but other than checking the float level, I don't know what I'd do to it.

Do you guys check the float level with it upside down, or do you hold it at an angle with the float just on the needle as some folks describe? I'm up for anyother ideas you might have too.

Mike, is this a S model with the vacuum petcock? Does it have a “prime” position? Try running it on prime. Maybe the vacuum diaphram is not opening up completely and restricting the flow. Also, I’ve seen old fuel line break down and restrict flow. Sorry, thats all I got.
 
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