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The DR/DRZ Thread

Thanks, hope it works well for you. Give us some feedback. I like the downward outlet would work great with the FCRMX
 
I sheared one of the allen head bolts while performing the loctite fix. I think I have gotten in over my head. Is there a trusted DRZ mechanic in or around Austin that could help sort this out?

I have ordered a flywheel puller and strap wrench but they will not arrive until Tuesday. I also ordered a used starter clutch bearing plate incase I cannot remove the sheared bolt.
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Since I cannot remove the starter clutch/flywheel for a couple days I started on another to do item. I found the countershaft nut loose. I had ordered the moose racing countershaft seal kit awhile back so I removed the nut and found that I have an extra spacer (4th from the left). This extra spacer was in between #28 and #33. The sprocket is a 14T stamped 528 and does not appear to be oem.

Also, the moose racing kit came with two o-rings. One of the o-rings is #39 and fits inside #34. Is the other o-ring #21?

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DRZ400sm for sale
 

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I sheared one of the allen head bolts while performing the loctite fix. I think I have gotten in over my head. Is there a trusted DRZ mechanic in or around Austin that could help sort this out?

I have ordered a flywheel puller and strap wrench but they will not arrive until Tuesday. I also ordered a used starter clutch bearing plate incase I cannot remove the sheared bolt.
View attachment 248553

View attachment 248554
That is a pretty easy fix..
Once the flywheel is off, center punch the end (back side of the flywheel), spotheat that broken fastener and part of the starter clutch to soften any threadlock, use a standard right hand twist bit, something under 1/4 so you do not damage threads..and let er rip...the drill will heat, and crab/unscrew broken fastener bit
 
Since I cannot remove the starter clutch/flywheel for a couple days I started on another to do item. I found the countershaft nut loose. I had ordered the moose racing countershaft seal kit awhile back so I removed the nut and found that I have an extra spacer (4th from the left). This extra spacer was in between #28 and #33. The sprocket is a 14T stamped 528 and does not appear to be oem.

Also, the moose racing kit came with two o-rings. One of the o-rings is #39 and fits inside #34. Is the other o-ring #21?

View attachment 248563
View attachment 248564
The DRZ uses an "offset" countershaft sprocket..Some of the cheaper sprockets are flat, and they use that spacer you have to off set the sprocket.
A better quality sprocket will have the spacer as part of the design
1574202386252.png
 
Since I cannot remove the starter clutch/flywheel for a couple days I started on another to do item. I found the countershaft nut loose. I had ordered the moose racing countershaft seal kit awhile back so I removed the nut and found that I have an extra spacer (4th from the left). This extra spacer was in between #28 and #33. The sprocket is a 14T stamped 528 and does not appear to be oem.

Also, the moose racing kit came with two o-rings. One of the o-rings is #39 and fits inside #34. Is the other o-ring #21?

View attachment 248563
View attachment 248564
No 21 is a spacer and not accessible without splitting the cases... you have 2 each #39 O rings is all in that package
 
So I started noticing the 03 drzE frame rusting through under the engine a few years ago, and upon inspection realized it was pretty invasive. After alot of retrospect I believe this occurred due to sinking it in a salt marsh once and not realizing the bike had drain holes in the bottom of the frame. I washed it good but probably didnt take the skid plate off or check those frame drain holes. Rookie mistake.

It has been such a good bike I was considering swapping the frame or repairing it but continued to ride the crap out of it. I mean have you lookead at all the iron they have welded together under there? This summer, after a pretty good get off I broke the water pump housing and the clutch hub. Being 30 miles from any help I had to ride out with no water. I took it as easy as I could in the deep sand and whoops and it hurt me to treat it that way, but she made it out! Which was better than the alternative. So I found a waterpump cover and replaced it, removed the broken pieces in the clutch and filled it up with coolant and it runs seemingly fine. I have not ridden much at all, just around the yard. I did not replace the clutch hub, yet.

I am leery of this motor and add in frame issue and I just dont think she is worth the effort to repair. Then I screwed up and rode a buddies KTM350. WOW, I was hooked, Super light and plenty of power, available in a wide ratio- I wanted one. I shopped, used because I am not buying a $10k dirtbike ( I ride a suzuki mind you). I didnt like what i read about long term reliability and effective repairs. Maybe we can discuss that topic in another thread. So after much deliberation over what to get to replace my aging and wounded drz E. I found out that a buddy was getting rid of his 02 drzE. The price was right, I had her in my sights, and I took the shot, and brought her home. Old familiar wins out for now. I still need to clean the carb and replace the battery to get the 02 going. My buddy never really rode this one so it has super low hours.

Now I have to figure out what to do with the old one. Its plated, and runs seemingly fine. I have a bunch of goodies on it that I will probably take off. I would like to sell it, obviously for a DEEP discount off market value.
What do yall think? Did the 30 miles hurt the old girl? Should I just scrap it? I mean its been around and rode hard. Forks are all leaking after this last trip to baja. My conscience would not let me sell without full disclosure. What to do? What would yall do? Part it out? Donate to science? One thing for certain, she has to get out of my shop. Thanks for playing!

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Might have to part it out. I have it on good authority that those wheels are solid gold and you could probably sell them for more than the bike is worth. At least, that's what I found when I wanted to convert my SM to dirty mode.
 
You could definitely make more money pouring by now. But if the bike runs good. You might as will just sell it altogether.
 
That is a pretty easy fix..
Once the flywheel is off, center punch the end (back side of the flywheel), spotheat that broken fastener and part of the starter clutch to soften any threadlock, use a standard right hand twist bit, something under 1/4 so you do not damage threads..and let er rip...the drill will heat, and crab/unscrew broken fastener bit
The DRZ uses an "offset" countershaft sprocket..Some of the cheaper sprockets are flat, and they use that spacer you have to off set the sprocket.
A better quality sprocket will have the spacer as part of the design View attachment 248742
No 21 is a spacer and not accessible without splitting the cases... you have 2 each #39 O rings is all in that package


Thanks for the tips. The bolt sheared because I confused my inch/pounds and foot/pounds. I was able to remove the sheared bolt using a "speed-out." I re-assembled with the proper torque and loctite. I did buy a used starter clutch assembly just in case that I now have as a spare.

I ordered a 15T JT front sprocket and fitted the countershaft seal kit. I 3D printed a tool to set the seal.
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Next on the to-do list is fitting the MCCT from thumpertalk. I have also noticed some whirring from the rear at higher speeds. I'm not sure if its a wheel bearing or the sound the D606 makes at ~65mph
 
Just picked up a 2007 drz 400 sm today! also has the e wheels and tires. Has some upgrades which weren't listed or known by the owner, just need to find out what all has been done to it! I believe its been re-jetted, has Thumper talk case savers, possibly manual cam chain tension and more
IMG_20191213_191151255.jpg
 
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Just picked up a 2007 drz 400 sm today! also has the e wheels and tires. Has some upgrades which weren't listed or known by the owner, just need to find out what all has been done to it! I believe its been re-jetted, has Thumper talk case savers, possibly manual cam chain tension and moreView attachment 250299
More than possibly.
 
More than possibly.
further inspection of the bag of goodies, the 3x3 mod has also been done, vapor dash, found the inline temp sensor I need to install, bar risers, spare upgraded shift and brake levers, seems to have upgraded the radiator hoses at some point
 
Just picked up a 2007 drz 400 sm today! also has the e wheels and tires. Has some upgrades which weren't listed or known by the owner, just need to find out what all has been done to it! I believe its been re-jetted, has Thumper talk case savers, possibly manual cam chain tension and moreView attachment 250299
It has a Manual cam chain tensioner, though no idea on what brand, TT case guards, at least one silicone radiator hose, aftermarket foot pegs, hard to tell in pic, but IMS pegs I think,
 
Finally got the time to work on the new to me 02. Pulled the carb and cleaned, made a list of parts needed. Pulled the bowl off the old one and slapped the carb back in- she busted off quickly, needs tuned and reassembled, after I get the parts ordered today. FWIW, sudco does sell carbs and parts to individuals despite their website wholesale only claim.
$150 adds up quick with $16 bowl gaskets etc.. gotta have spares!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
New to me '07 I picked up a couple months ago...

SM converted to dirt.
 

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