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The DR/DRZ Thread

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Not all aftermarket brake lines are created equal. I'd read that the Goodridge lines are too short, or were exactly the right length, but shorter than stock, and quite tight. At the time I tried to order some Hel lines as they had good reviews but their site was having issues and I couldn't check out. I ordered the Russel lines, and it appears they use the same measurements as Goodridge. They are tight. I've encountered some other issues since swapping it so I'm rebuilding and cleaning everything and replacing a few parts. While I'm doing that, might as well order the Hel lines, right? All was good with their site and I got them in yesterday. MUCH better and look like stock length.

I loosely ran the Hel side by side with the Russel, you can see the difference, zero extra room with the Russel.

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Side by side stretched to show difference in length.

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I of course opted for yellow lines with the black heat shrink.

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Funny, I didn't notice their black on black logo on the heat shrink till looking at these photos. The white on black is obvious, but not so much the other one.
 
Plan riding for 2 weeks near our 2nd home in Tres Ritos, NM. Elevation is around 10K feet. My DRZ is stock. Due to the higher elevation, will I experience any fuel/air issues? If so, can it be adjusted without re jetting?
 
When mine runs rich at altitude, I remove the side cover to expose the air filter and that takes care of it.
 
Last weekend I got the whole front brake system removed, disassembled, and cleaned up using my new (thanks to this thread) ultrasonic cleaner. Today, all the parts have arrived, I thought I'd go ahead and start putting it back together. I got everything out and had a total "DOH!" moment. Spot the mistake. :D

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Made a double mistake. First of all, I thought I'd ordered a caliper rebuild kit, even though it was rebuilt recently, I wanted new seals. Instead I had ordered another MC rebuild kit instead. So I came in and ordered a caliper rebuild kit and set up the return of the extra MC rebuild kit. Then after I did that I remembered the pistons came with new seals. Double DOH! Order canceled.
 
Gabus said:
Plan riding for 2 weeks near our 2nd home in Tres Ritos, NM. Elevation is around 10K feet. My DRZ is stock. Due to the higher elevation, will I experience any fuel/air issues? If so, can it be adjusted without re jetting?
Click to expand...

I am curious to know your outcome...specially if you do not re-jet. I have heard the JD jet kit even jetted for sea level will be less affected by altitude changes than a factory jetted bike. I have a stock DRZ and did just install the JD jet kit...it does seem to run a lot better, and by better i mean my bike had hesitation when wrapping on the throttle when its hot outside. I really noticed the difference on the days when it was cool in the morning..( it ran good) then in the heat of the day the hesitation was back. JD jet kit seemed to solve this problem. With this kit you are required to remove the top air box snorkle and open an existing whole a few more inches to allow more air. The instructions are very easy to follow...and I did remove the carb from the bike to re-jet but there are videos online demonstrating that it is not required. The kit comes with everything needed to jet from sea level to greater than 8K ft
 
I'm glad I don't ride a fancy bike like a DRZ that requires specific torque wrenches and mobile apps to keep it running.

If something comes loose on my KLR I just wrap the loose part a little tighter with duct tape or bailing wire.
 
rshadoan said:
I am curious to know your outcome...specially if you do not re-jet. I have heard the JD jet kit even jetted for sea level will be less affected by altitude changes than a factory jetted bike. I have a stock DRZ and did just install the JD jet kit...it does seem to run a lot better, and by better i mean my bike had hesitation when wrapping on the throttle when its hot outside. I really noticed the difference on the days when it was cool in the morning..( it ran good) then in the heat of the day the hesitation was back. JD jet kit seemed to solve this problem. With this kit you are required to remove the top air box snorkle and open an existing whole a few more inches to allow more air. The instructions are very easy to follow...and I did remove the carb from the bike to re-jet but there are videos online demonstrating that it is not required. The kit comes with everything needed to jet from sea level to greater than 8K ft
Click to expand...

So far so good. I can tell a bit of difference as far as power. But so far the bike runs good. I'm around 10,500 feet in elevation.
 
Anyone know of an alternative wheel manufacturer for the DRZ? Turner, Talon, Tusk, Warp do not. SM Pro Platinum make a set, but well over a $1K.
 
Gabus said:
Anyone know of an alternative wheel manufacturer for the DRZ? Turner, Talon, Tusk, Warp do not. SM Pro Platinum make a set, but well over a $1K.
Click to expand...

Warp 9 racing makes sets to go either way....SM or dirt. Complete with sprockets and rotors. Alot buy rims from ebay and either source or use there own rotors and sprockets
 
I'm getting my SM ready for a trip starting next month and I wanted to exchange one upper layer with an electric jacket liner. I know the electrical system on the DRZ has minimal extra current available. I already have a plug to charge my phone and use for the GPS. Anyway, I bought an LED headlight bulb and the amps for low beam went down from 3.9 to 1.8 Amps. That's more than half of the draw by the liner. To be on the safe side, I put a switch in line with the low beam so I can turn it off. When I get to a congested area, I'll switch to high beam to comply with the headlight laws that most states have. Also, a heads up. My bike had the valves checked at about 8K. They checked good. Today I checked them with 20K miles and one intake and one exhaust were right at the low limit. Watch your valves.
 
rshadoan said:
Warp 9 racing makes sets to go either way....SM or dirt. Complete with sprockets and rotors. Alot buy rims from ebay and either source or use there own rotors and sprockets
Click to expand...

Ended up with Warp 9. I don't have the patience to wait 5 -6 weeks but I don't have a choice.
 
Gabus said:
Ended up with Warp 9. I don't have the patience to wait 5 -6 weeks but I don't have a choice.
Click to expand...
I just ordered and got my Warp 9s and it was way less than 5 weeks. I’m pretty sure mine where here in less than 2 weeks. I ordered right before I left town for two weeks and they were here waiting on me when I got home.
 
Need advice for tweaking the DRZ for my height (standing).

I am 6’2 ish, 34” pants length.

I have installed lower pegs and standard bar riser.

When I stand in the proper position for offroad ADV riding my arms are fully extended and are still pulling on the grips; esp going up hill where it is a real battle to stay up.
I cannot manage to have that loose position on the bars to allow the front end to move about, etc.
as a result I am exerting a ton of energy hanging on to the bars and am unable to have proper technique.

1. Is this common for a person my size on the DRZ?


2. I am guessing my only option left is to get new bars that have a shape that comes up higher.
I am not experienced in this area, so I have no idea where to start to find bars; there are a ton of options out there.
Also will have to take it to a shop for install as I dont think I can do that myself.
Any recommendations on bars that may solve my problem?

Thanks as always!
 
Oooh, I miss my DR650.

Need some pointers on a leaking petcock on my IMS 4 gallon tank. It's not the fuel hose clamps. It's leaking from the petcock.
Where do I start? It's been sitting for a while :doh:
- is there a gasket rebuild kit?
- can someone identify the model of this petcock?

Thanks!

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