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The Great Divide Part II, and more

Day 6; NM grassland prairie

It's harder to wake up early from a motel bed but we didn't sleep too late. We got breakfast at our favorite place in Ruidoso, Chef Lupe's Cafe. Across the street the building had dogs on the roof parking at passers by. Funny.

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Fueled and fed we left to the north riding by the airport. We could see our next challenge in the distance; Capitan Gap. The notch in this range.

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Then we came upon Ft. Stanton which is well known for it's role in the tale of Billy the Kid and the Lincoln County War of the 1800's. Next to the fort was a cemetery dedicated to Merchant Marines which I found a little odd. They had their version of Forest Gump mowing the grass.

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Ft Stanton from the road. We visited the museum on a road trip to the area a few years ago.

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This was all on pavement since Ruidoso. After a few more miles we were on dirt and closer to the gap.

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Once in the gap the trail became more rocky and slower going. With no breeze it soon became rather warm since most of this section was 1st and 2nd gear.

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We came to a section that had numerous streams running across and along the road. Our first real section of any kind of mud. Nice for a change.

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Then a section that had seen a forest fire. It's always a little surreal riding in these areas.

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The trail followed the elevation around the mountain for at least 5 miles then dropped toward the plain. The horizon was calling us to the next part of our adventure.

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But first we had to get out. Another gate. This one built from retire rails from the railroad. Sturdy for sure.

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On the prairie it was wide open spaces. Rolling hills so the vistas weren't going on for miles but I thought more beautiful than the desert east of El Paso.

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These guys were friendly enough. They are there to watch over the sheep.

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We mostly traveled well maintained roads interspersed with pieces of roads that used to be. I stayed to the route as much as possible. It took us through some seldom used gates.

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This storm was chasing for a while but never caught us.

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After riding through the back yard, past the house and down the front entrance we got out of the gate.

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A rail crossing in the middle of nowhere, NM.

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We rode past Ft. Sumner Reservoir....

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and into Ft. Sumner for food and fuel. We at this joint.

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I had New Mexican chicken fried steak. That's real steak, cream gravy, green chile, and cheese on top. Oh man let me tell you that was awesome. :eat:

Next: to Logan, NM for the night.
 
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Day 6 continued

After the late lunch we continue heading east and north along the prescribed route. Fast roads that soon started to get chocked down with grass and tall weeds. One particular sections had tall sunflowers on either side that were loaded with birds. As I flew through they would take to wing to flee my screaming machine. A least a couple bounced of me. One of my face shield and another off my thigh. I'm sure they didn't survive since they hit so hard. Had I not had a face shield in the lowered position I would have taken a hit as well.



We came to yet another gate, also unlocked. The route went that way so onward we went.

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The road led us to a row of wind generators and turned into the service road for them.

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Then the route separated from the road and headed across a pasture. I could barely see the two tracks in the grass so I followed. It led to a gate that we could open then approached the back of a house. The area was full of cattle but there was not gate at the road. We had to go nearly to the back door of the house where I found a gate to let ourselves out. This was the only time I felt uncomfortable about where we were riding. It was just too close to the house and I expected the owner to come out at any minute but never did. No harm done.

We followed the route across a few more miles of abandoned ranch land and abandoned housed. This piece of Quay County is gridded with roads called Quay Roads. The ones running north/south are lettered and the ones running east/west are numbered. A lot of them are well used and some are not even visible as a road. It made for interesting navigation.

We came to an intersection with NM 252 and it was decision time. We were running out of daylight and still had over 100 miles on the route to get to the next known camp site. After a brief discussion the joint decision was to bail and take the asphalt directly to the camp in the fastest route provided by the gps. This took us almost due north toward Tucumcari on NM 209. This saved us 60 miles over the defined route.

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We got fuel in Tucumcari and made it to Ute Lake State Park outside of Logan, NM just at sunset. Perfect. Our tracks for the day.....

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For the mirror mount...

http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/parts_frames.html

Pick "KLR/KLX" --> Control --> Billet Mirror Adapter w/Choke Mount PIC 12-7099 16.95

This gets the mirror off the switch assembly. It also relocates the choke lever so it doesn't hit the gas tank in a drop and break off.

Carry on... :popcorn:
 
For the mirror mount...

http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/parts_frames.html

Pick "KLR/KLX" --> Control --> Billet Mirror Adapter w/Choke Mount PIC 12-7099 16.95

This gets the mirror off the switch assembly. It also relocates the choke lever so it doesn't hit the gas tank in a drop and break off.

Carry on... :popcorn:

Thanks Scott. We talked about him finding that part. His choke lever broke a couple of years ago and he has a custom set up for that. It hangs below the tank with a hose clamp to grab hold of. He sets his throttle lock to keep it revved once it starts. :lol2:
 
Day 7; northern NM

Up early we broke camp and went in to Logan looking for breakfast. We found this local joint and gave it a whirl. Not disappointing at all. :eat:

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More locals started showing up. We saw this rig out front when we were leaving. Anyone know what is going on here? Looks to me like he was using the bike to charge battery packs for something.

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The sky was gloomy so it gave the roads a different feel.

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You'll see some strange sights on trips like this. Mostly someone with an idea that didn't quite work.

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Supposed to go here. (lousy photo)

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Not too far along we came up on a real western cattle drive. I stopped with plenty of space to not spook them.

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This is Roy and his horse, Grace. Super nice guy rode back to check us out. We talked for about 10 minutes. He couldn't believe anyone would want to come out in the middle of nowhere on vacation. When explained we spent all of our working time in the city he immediately understood. He and his daughter were driving the herd. He prefers horses to bikes because of the terrain. He never could get used to 4 wheelers.

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He directed to stay to one side of the road and if we went slow it would be fine. So we said our adios and pushed through.



More fast roads.....



then I came upon what I called the gate of death. I could barley see it across the road. In the center of the road you can see where I came skidding to a stop in time.

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The route took us onto some more seldom used roads. Find me in this shot:

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Nobody home.

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Just to show we were really on the road.

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After a brief stop in Clayton for lunch we stopped here to top off fuel tanks. My son's name is Clayton Taylor so this is his store.

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Another interesting sight in Clayton is this dragon along the highway.

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Just west of Clayton we head north toward Colorado. Paved for about 15 miles than turning to dirt. Eventually we would find ourselves at a major crossroads. This is where the Shadow of the Rockies intersects with the Trans America Trail.

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We took the TAT west and came upon a paved stretch that led down into a valley. Perry had a great idea. He set up at this spot to catch a shot of me making the corner. Look for my white helmet in the trees before the curve. I ruined his plans by stopping to take a picture of the valley. :doh: His shot...

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And mine.....

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The road would change back and forth from paved to dirt for a while than stayed paved. Karen directed me to take a side road which led to a gate. Through the gate the road all but disappeared. We crossed a set of train tracks and the road then disappeared except for a purple line on the gps. We were on a ridge and heard a strange sound then saw the train winding it's way up the valley. Pretty cool.

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We decided there was no road here so headed back to the highway. Perry got some video of this "road". I was following it as best as I could.



Next: Into Colorado
 
Day 7; Back on Colorado

We crossed the state line with the required sign shot.

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Just across the border is the small burg of Branson. Famous for this well preserved jail.

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It's in a prominent place in town with it's own prota potty. Too many adventure riders stopping here I suppose.

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The route goes almost due west from here towards Trinidad. Those gloomy skies were becoming dark and threatening.

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Finally, about 2 miles from Trinidad we surrendered to the elements and had to don rain gear. :giveup:

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Perry's monkey, our mascot, was not pleased but he hung on.

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I had planned to stop in Trinidad for fuel and to visit my nephew who is in gunsmith school, but with the rain I was concentrating on riding and completely missed the turn into town and took a bypass. This put us on a wide spot in the road along the Interstate about 12 miles north of town. The placed was called Ludlow.

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The rain had let up where we were but we could see it was coming down hard to the south in Trinidad. I turned on the phone and I had a message from Leslie saying my nephew was in his machinist class so couldn't have met up with us anyway and with the rain it's just as well that we missed Trinidad. We had a slight problem though, low fuel and I wasn't sure where the next station was. While standing around the local Barney Fife officer pulled up so we asked him about fuel. We heard a whimper coming from the seat and saw a baby in a car seat. Perry said, "Those perps always cry when you stick 'em in the back seat". He laughed. Yes, there is fuel in La Veta and we can make that so we press on.

We were dodging rain and trying to make time to get to town before dark so no photos. We rolled into the gas station downtown as the operator was turning off the lights. He stayed open for us to fill up our tanks and gave us a recommendation on a place to eat. We found out later that a new gas station/store down the road is open 24/7. We ate and started looking for a place to camp. Perry was looking for another roof to cover us in our tents. It was dark so we rode into the park downtown and set up in the picnic pavilion.

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It seemed like a good idea at the time. At around 0100 the yard sprinklers came on. The first cycle was OK; it came in under one end but not all teh way to where we were. The second was no problem but the third came in under the roof and was hitting the end of my tent. Who knew I would have to put on my rain fly under a roof. :giveup: At 0400 a freight train came rolling through blowing his crossing horns. We were about 100 yards from the tracks. At 0500 the sprinklers came on again! Then another train at 0600. Like I said it was a good idea at the time.

Enough for today. Tomorrow, day 8.
 
Day 8; The home stretch

This is the wake up call provided to us by the Rio Grande RR.

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We packed our gear for the last time with the yard sprinklers still hitting the front of our bikes. :giveup: It seemed like a good idea to stay there.

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We rode around town looking for options for breakfast and found this joint at the far end of Main. We instantly knew we had found the spot.

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Inside was decorated in 50's and 60's memorabilia and was small but cozy. One other customer had beaten us to the table and was sipping coffee in the corner.

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Great service with a kind smile. Perry had his omelet and I chose the Cowboy Special; two eggs, bacon, fried taters, homemade corned beef hash, and the best biscuit I've had in quite a while. :eat: Very good.

La Veta is off the beaten path but a very nice town worthy of a visit in cage or on two wheels. The main road to town is paved. ;-)

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The sun was shining but the clouds were hanging on top of the mountains. This is often an indicator of still unstable atmosphere and could bring more rain. No matter it makes for nice photos.

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Perry caught me snapping this one. Kinda neat with all our shadows.

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The road was fast and straight at first but we soon turned of onto the next leg that wound it's way along the front of the Sangre de Christo range.



This old church is a common photo seen among many ride reports for folks riding the Trans America Trail (TAT).

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Eventually we head down into the valley to cross over HWY 69 and head north.

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Day 8 continued

After crossing CO 69 west of Gardner we began to gain altitude heading north on Greenhorn Mountain Rd. Before long we came to where the rain had fallen overnight and the road had not yet soaked up the fresh liquid. It was a mix of mud and goop. We slowed because there is no other way to handle long stretches of mud. Try to follow a rut or find a drier path. Then while following a rut the rut splits as cars move around and you find your tires trying to follow different ruts. :eek2: This induces what is commonly called a low speed tank slapper as the bike flops back and forth between your thighs. Just hang on and try to get a handle on it. Both of us had this fun and managed to keep the bikes upright. After about 10 miles of this fun we began to gain enough altitude that the road was less goopy and more solid. There was an area that had just been subject to a prescribed burn by the forest service. This removes underbrush but doesn't harm the larger trees. It prevents a small ground fire from jumping into the canopy and destroying the larger trees. The smell of wet burnout reminded both of us of the many wild-land fires we had fought together.

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We climbed higher and higher into the San Isabel National Forest and were treated to some beautiful views of the aspens in their fall colors. Amazing!

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The clouds got thicker and the wind was stronger and colder. Coming down from the pass I started to get drops on my face shield and thought we were gonna get wet again. We soon found ourselves on the Greenhorn Hwy, CO 165.

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We rode a few of the sweeping corners and the rain came along with us. I gave up and stopped to get my rain jacket.

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The rain didn't last long, or we got far enough north to get out of it. We rode HWY 96 east for a while. Lots of curves. I need to come back on the street machine and catch these two roads.

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There was a mix of paved and dirt roads that took us across US 50 east of Canon City and put us on CO 67; Phantom Canyon Rd.

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Another road that was originally served the Florence & Cripple Creek Railroad, Phantom Canyon road is designated a Back-country Byway. Since this was narrow gauge the cuts are tighter and the blind corners more hazardous. The road surface was excellent and all the cars we came up on were able to find a spot to pull over and let us past. This unique steel trestle bridge is the only remaining of the original six bridges along the route.

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One more stop for a photo before arriving in Victor for lunch.

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Day 8 continued

We arrived in Victor to sunshine and a crisp cool breeze. Victor and Cripple Creek is the richest gold camp in history. Today the two towns, separated by less than 10 miles, have a completely different feel to them. Victor is more rustic while Cripple Creek is restored and bustling with tourism. We chose Victor for lunch and ended up choosing a joint called The Lucky Buck. Your basic grill and bar.

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Inside the decor was definitely to our liking. The owner had his "I love me" wall and he was a firefighter. :clap:

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He had the requisite dead heads present.

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And some cool murals on the walls.

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Hidden back in the corner was the old pizza oven, perfect.

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We got a large supreme and I washed it down with a Tommyknocker micro-brew which was appropriate for the situation. Tommyknockers are miners who have been trapped in cave-ins and pound on the rocks for rescue. It is believed that the ghosts of these miners go on knocking in the mine shafts long after the victims have died. Stephen King got it all wrong.

The buildings across the street from The Lucky Buck.

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From here it was east on Gold Camp Rd and one more chance to enjoy the aspens.

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Before long we were on Old Stage Rd. overlooking CO Springs.

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And after enduring the traffic :rolleyes: we arrived back at the start point. We had made it.

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2285 miles in 8 days.

Next: We take on the Mountain
 
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Bonus: Pike's Peak and Garden of the Gods

We enjoyed a great night's sleep in soft beds. Leslie had made us some breakfast tacos with egg, potato, and chorizo and left it in the pan for us whenever we woke up. :eat: Awesome! We had stripped most of the baggage off the bike that made them top heavy and went out to take on the mountain. She loomed high over us as we topped off our tanks for the day.

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I had plugged in our destination on the Zumo so we had no trouble finding our way. Of course a destination like this is pretty easy to find. Lots of signs along the way as you head west from CO Springs on US 24. First thing on the Pike's Peak HWY is to pay the troll, er ah toll. $12 per bike and worth every penny. I pulled over in the parking area to remove the dirty filter skin to let the bike breath better. It was needed as it had been on for half the trip. And we were off on the route of the famous Pike's Peak Hill Climb. The road is curvy and smooth with a speed limit that varies from 20 mph to 35 mph. OK, it's set up for cars that are sightseeing. We like seeing these signs.

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I didn't stop for many photos on the way up it was that fun. First asphalt then dirt for a few miles and back to asphalt above treeline. Everyone pulled off to let us past. It was a hoot right up until the ranger came around the switchback turn and came at me head on in my lane in a blocking move. :eek2: I grabbed the binders and came to a stop and before I could turn down the music coming from the Zumo he had pulled up next to me and was yelling something. Perry had stopped between me and the pickup truck and heard all that he said. It went something like this: "The speed limit is 20." Me, "what?" Ranger, "Two, zero." Perry, "OK, we'll be good." Yeah, I'll be a good boy. OK, we had been doing between 40 and 50, we slowed down for the sharper corners. :trust:

Then, we were at the summit.

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14,110 feet.

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The cog railway was at the top so the gift shop was full enough. We got our donuts and went out to take a look around.

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They had some snow with the front passing a couple days ago.

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You can see Kansas from up here.

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Looking west you can easily pick out the Victor and CC mine and the town of Cripple Creek. The lake are drinking water reservoirs for CO Springs and most are off limits to recreation.

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Out in the middle of the looping drive at the summit is a pile of rocks that is the highest point. Perry added a rock to the top and claimed his honors.

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Tourism done it was time to make our descent. We took it slower and stopped for photos along the way. Watch for the fist pump around 45 seconds from the passing car as he sees my one handed riding technique. :dude:



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Funny story from this last overlook. A guy and his wife were stopped here on a nice Road King. She was sitting on the bike facing away and he came up to talk to me. He said they had been traveling for 8 days and had gone 1600 miles; she corrected him with the number 1400. She said "those bike look like fun" without turning around to look at us. I said that we had just done 2300 miles of dirt roads in the last 8 days. He spun on his heel and stomped back to the bike. She said "WOW, that's quite a trip" still without turning around. He fired up the Harley and left without another word. :lol2: When we got down to the parking area they had stopped and she was walking toward the trash can facing us with her back to the Harley. We got the biggest smile and one of those low waves so her husband couldn't see. True story. :rider:

We rode through Manitou Springs, a nice town that looks like it's straight out of Disney park and on to Garden of the Gods. I'll post the photos since there isn't much story except riding through the park.

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It was afternoon and it was getting warm and we were getting hungry so we rode into Old Colorado City to a place in my personal favorites list.

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Lunch

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Desert, raspberry chip and blueberry cheescake

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A great day and to finish it off, dinner at the Phantom Canyon Grill and Brew Pub. Perfect

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A long report for a long ride. Thanks for taking the time to share it with us. :rider:
 
The question always comes up about tires so I'll just go ahead and address now. We both had fresh Dunlop 606 on the back. The tires did fine but I think I prefer the Maxxis Desert IT I had been using. The 606 slipped more in loose corners. This shows the wear of 2300 miles, 85% dirt.

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I was sporting a used Maxxis Desert IT on the front this tire has seen our previous summer's trip of 1800 miles and a trip to Big Bend this spring that added about 500 to that. That makes over 5,000 miles and it's pretty used up but did very well on this trip. I'll keep it on for a while longer for running around town.

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Perry started this ride with a new Pirelli MT21 on the front. It did not fare so well. The knobs had thrown some small bits and the center knobs had some serious cupping on the trailing edge. These tires are done after this one ride of 2300 miles. He may try reversing the rotation and see if the can get a few more miles out of it. We'll see, the wear is pretty bad.

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As always with tires, YMMV (your mileage may vary).
 
Awesome ride and an excellent report guys. Posting up this kind of report takes a lot of time and effort. Much thanks for taking us along. :clap:
 
Awesome ride and an excellent report guys. Posting up this kind of report takes a lot of time and effort. Much thanks for taking us along. :clap:

Thanks for recognizing the effort. It's the best way to share with family and friends. TWT is full of friends to the effort is worth it. ;-)
 
Yeah, Perry did good on that one. Caught the motion with the mountain in the background and the long shadow. Nice indeed. The horizon is slightly canted but he said he was going to work on that. ;-)
 
Enjoyed your write up and photos. I am planning on doing the CDR next year on a DR 650. As yet I still don't have a set of soft panniers, and would like to know what panniers you have and are you satisfied with their overall performance, durability, and carrying capacity?
 
Enjoyed your write up and photos. I am planning on doing the CDR next year on a DR 650. As yet I still don't have a set of soft panniers, and would like to know what panniers you have and are you satisfied with their overall performance, durability, and carrying capacity?

I use the Dirt Bagz Ranger. I love them. Tough as nails. Good water resistance, not waterproof though. The racks are simple and work great.
 
You did a Great job telling the story in pics and videos. Finished it up tonight with a Arturo Fuente and a Mcallen. If you're ever up for another one just let me know.

BTW, ordered the wr426 petcock and it should be here next week.

Cheers,
K
 
You did a Great job telling the story in pics and videos. Finished it up tonight with a Arturo Fuente and a Mcallen. If you're ever up for another one just let me know.

BTW, ordered the wr426 petcock and it should be here next week.

Cheers,
K

Thank you. It was an epic adventure. Hope I can do one like this again one day.
 
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