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The handlebar thread

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It's all down to personal preference, really. I had the "Road Ultra Low" bars which were great and gave a more sporty riding position while giving adequate clearance. Because of shoulder/neck problems I've now gone for something higher (about the same height as the standard bars, but a more natural grip angle) but I can't remember off hand what bend they are. I can check tonight if you want to know.

You just have to judge from the dimensions what might suit you compared to the standard bars, really, as everyone's a different height/build and has a different preference for riding position. And any bars can be changed further by combining them with risers and/or bar-backs, as long as the length of control cables/hoses allows.
 
And thats the fundamental issue for us all. There are innumerable options and further alterations we can make. I dont want to get into bar risers, up an inch, back an inch etc at least not yet, and I dont want to change hoses etc.

The main complaint remains the palm grip angle, personally I would move towards a lean forward more not less option but I`m not looking for a dramatic alteration in general positioning. (I have an SP1 for back trouble :-)

If you could post your current bar type (and any fit / clearance issues) that would be great.
 
Mike,

I had success without having to replace lines/hoses on my ABS model. It was the wrist angle that I wanted to address, as the factory bars just didn't cut it for me.

I replaced the bars with some black bars from off the little GSX650F, they're lower and have the wrist angle I was looking for; but they didn't clear the tank easily.

I added GenMar bar-backs to the equation (black), and my bars were now an inch back and an inch up for me.... sweeeet; but once again, they didn't clear the tank easily.

I filed the little plastic locating-tabs off my controls, and was now able to rotate the bars and locate the controls to an angle that cleared my gas tank, albeit by a quarter/half inch.

The final thing I did was install a sexy (black) Holeshot handlebar brace that Dale Walker offers. The brace not only compliments the resulting 'look', but it makes for a VERY solid platform to which the bars are now married.

I lean forward a bit now and my lower back appreciates that. The wrist angle works for me, and everything looks good.
 
I didn't like the grip angle on the stockers either. I took 2 - 1" dia. x 5' pieces of black pipe and slipped them over the grip areas of the bars and just bent them to what I wanted. I bent them forward and down a little. It made a huge improvement and didn't cost much - just the 2 pieces of 5' pipe. Just pull the bars off and bend away.
 
Whoa.... I wish I had nerve enough to try that.

I didn't mind the stockers, and they actually grew on me; but that wrist angle was a killer! I was tempted to try bending them, but I didn't have a platform/vice/grip solid enough to hold the bars, and I wasn't gonna try it with 'em still on the bike.

I paid LOTSA money for those OEM bars, designer-name bar-backs, and billet handlebar brace! And the frustration of not getting the clearances and angles I wanted taxed me. It all worked out though, but I sure would like to have used all that money for other things.....

KNOWING that the bars can stand up to the bending, given as how Indy Bandit did it successfully, is a bonus for those who wonder if they oughta try it themselves!
 
I use the ultra low rise as well and enjoy them very much. Not to much wrist pressure and they do give a sporter stance.

Mark
 
Just to clarify, have your wife/girlfriend or buddy stand on one pipe while it's on the floor - I found setting that pipe in the garage floor joint keeps it from rolling during the process. Then bend the other end, swap ends and repeat. Putting the bike on the center stand, you can quickly reset the bars in place and take measurement from the floor to get the height of the bar ends the same and by laying them on the flat floor it's easy to check the pull back. This helps you keep the bends symmetrical.
 
Indy Bandit said:
I didn't like the grip angle on the stockers either. I took 2 - 1" dia. x 5' pieces of black pipe and slipped them over the grip areas of the bars and just bent them to what I wanted. I bent them forward and down a little. It made a huge improvement and didn't cost much - just the 2 pieces of 5' pipe. Just pull the bars off and bend away.
Click to expand...

A perfect demonstration of how flexible the stock bars are. And let's face it - flexibility is not a characteristic that is even remotely desirable in handlebars.

Decent (alloy) bars are so cheap, someone at Suzuki should be shot for specifying those tin-foil excuses in the first place.
 
First off, I've read through all seven pages of this thread and haven't seen the information I'm looking for... and the Bandit Megathread scares me. If I'm asking a redundant question, my apologies.

So I've been considering doing something with my B1250's handlebars since I got it; while I do like the somewhat "aggressive" riding position when I'm on twisties, most of my riding is commuting and distance. As such, the stock setup and the stock seat height get tiresome after about 100 miles (I'm 6' and 170 lbs). I feel most of it in my shoulders. It feels like a more upright riding position would do me a world of good. However, I have serious reservations about pulling my handlebars apart and swapping them with something else; I'm afraid I'll get something out of whack, or not fasten something correctly, and won't notice it until I'm doing about 70 mph (not a good time to find a mistake). I have been considering the handlebar risers from Holeshot Performance, as those look like a simple enough swap:

http://www.holeshot.com/Bandit_1250/1250riser.html

The only downside to this is that the kit is $90 (for my ABS model). I am liking the idea of a $20 solution, and at the moment, I've got at least a month before I am able to even start riding. For those of you who have done the swap with the Daytona bars, can you compare the riding position / distance comfort with the stock handlebars? Also, if anyone has tried both the Daytona bars and the risers, I'd love to hear a comparison on those.
 
sproggy said:
A perfect demonstration of how flexible the stock bars are. And let's face it - flexibility is not a characteristic that is even remotely desirable in handlebars.

Decent (alloy) bars are so cheap, someone at Suzuki should be shot for specifying those tin-foil excuses in the first place.
Click to expand...

I think the flexibility felt is coming from the rubber mount. Those things are pretty tough to bend. Even with a 5' stick of pipe, it takes some effort to bend them. I have great confidence in the rigidity of the stock bars. I hate their shape, but they are pretty tough. I don't ever see them being a safety or steering accuracy issue. I think any felt sponginess probably comes from the rubber mount.
 
I gotta come clean on this....

Prior to spending all that money on new bar$, bar-back$, gel grip$, and a billet handlebar brace, I simply rotated the OEM bars in their mounts thus changing the grip angle. These were my observations:

* Never before has simply rotating the handlebars a half inch forward or back, so effectively changed the feel of ANY of my bikes. I've been doing this for years, but it has never been as effective on my other bikes as it was on the Bandit (?!?).

* I was VERY SURPRISED to experience what a 'neutral' sitting position did with regard to my ability to counter-steer effortlessly and dance through switch-backs with ease. The BMW RT has been known for putting it's pilot in the "sit up and beg" sitting/handlebar position. I briefly experienced this with the OEM bars when I rotated them closer to me.

I looked for a set of after-market bars identical to the factory Bandit bars, but with a less radical grip angle. I couldn't find any.....
My current handlebar set-up is best when I scoot up on the seat and bend forward with bent arms, for canyon carving or exceeding sane velocities.

I must say however that I am VERY much sold on Holeshot's one piece billet handlebar brace. My set-up is mucho SOLID! If I could do it all over again, I would have continued to search for and possibly find something based on the factory bars with a different bend.......

All said, try rotating your factory bars forward or back until you find an angle that you can live with. You may not need new bars.
 
So I'm really thinking that a set of risers is a better move for me than going all-out and replacing the handlebars... I'm comfortable with a toolkit, but removing the bars and replacing them with something else sounds like a lot of work that I don't care to do (yes, you can call me lazy if you'd like). I've found a couple sets online that have my attention, but after looking around at the bike itself for a few minutes, I have a question:

How the **** do you get those stupid nut caps off? I've tried pushing, pulling, twisting, brute force (bent a knife trying THAT one)... how do they come out? I know I'm probably going to feel like an idiot once someone tells/shows me, but right now I feel like a monkey staring at an algebra book.
 
tristan.duff said:
So I'm really thinking that a set of risers is a better move for me than going all-out and replacing the handlebars... I'm comfortable with a toolkit, but removing the bars and replacing them with something else sounds like a lot of work that I don't care to do (yes, you can call me lazy if you'd like). I've found a couple sets online that have my attention, but after looking around at the bike itself for a few minutes, I have a question:

How the **** do you get those stupid nut caps off? I've tried pushing, pulling, twisting, brute force (bent a knife trying THAT one)... how do they come out? I know I'm probably going to feel like an idiot once someone tells/shows me, but right now I feel like a monkey staring at an algebra book.
Click to expand...

I just used a box cutter to catch the edge of the cap and pry it up. I wouldn't sweat changing out the bars, it's really pud. After bending the stock bars, I put a set of 2" Rox risers on and it really helped. I need a longer front brake line so I can follow suit with Fitty and then just rotate them down a little but the line is stretched to the max now.
 
tristan.duff said:
So I'm really thinking that a set of risers is a better move for me than going all-out and replacing the handlebars... I'm comfortable with a toolkit, but removing the bars and replacing them with something else sounds like a lot of work that I don't care to do (yes, you can call me lazy if you'd like). I've found a couple sets online that have my attention, but after looking around at the bike itself for a few minutes, I have a question:

How the **** do you get those stupid nut caps off? I've tried pushing, pulling, twisting, brute force (bent a knife trying THAT one)... how do they come out? I know I'm probably going to feel like an idiot once someone tells/shows me, but right now I feel like a monkey staring at an algebra book.
Click to expand...

I used a small wood chisel......lightly prying up.....
 
Yes, I was right: I feel like an idiot now, after seeing how it works. I was prying the caps as if they were large metal (as in, I assumed the top part of the nut was part of the cap, NOT the nut). I actually ended up using the metal pocket clip on a ballpoint pen with great success. Thanks for the heads-up.
 
Rotated my stock bars forward and wow, what a difference! I went as far forward as I could without the throttle cables touching the windscreen and it is perfect for me. Here's how close I put them, this is with the right bar pushed all the way forward against the stop.

0f523c1a.jpg
 
Thread resurrection here :giveup:

Anyone knows what are the stock handlebar's measurements?

I want to get a slightly higher handlebar with a more natural angle for the wrist. My wrists don't like the stock one.

Any suggestion other then the Daytone which does not offer a rise ?

http://www.ufo-productions.com/products/street-bars.htm

Looking at the link above, I can get the 87-0053 but I really don't know how it compares to the stock one.

Thanks for the help!
 
After having neck surgery this fall, I find the tiding position of the Bandit much less comfortable. Wondering if anyone has experimented with a 3-4" rise in the handlebars, or pull back of 2-3". If so, what does this entail?
(i.e. clutch and brake line, cables, ect.) Would appreciate any and all info., as I have a road trip coming up.
Thanks in advance, Sandman.
 
Saucisse, what did you find out about how those bars compare to the stock ones? When I try the link to the chart, it won't load.

Also, anyone have alloy bars on a Bandit? Seems like it might add some much-needed bling to the bike, make it look just a little nicer.
 
sandman53 said:
After having neck surgery this fall, I find the tiding position of the Bandit much less comfortable. Wondering if anyone has experimented with a 3-4" rise in the handlebars, or pull back of 2-3". If so, what does this entail?
(i.e. clutch and brake line, cables, ect.) Would appreciate any and all info., as I have a road trip coming up.
Thanks in advance, Sandman.
Click to expand...

You'd need some risers for 7/8" bars and all new lines. May have to extend electrical wires as well depending on how far back you go. Just put some genmars on and the brake lines are fairly snug, clutch line is close to being too tight but not quite. And this is with the tree slid down on the forks about an inch for my short wife, cut the factory zip ties to give them the slack needed. So definitely new brake/clutch/throttle lines, electrical would be cutting it close. If you did that much rise plus the pullback then I'd say definitely.
 
Pecan7 said:
Also, anyone have alloy bars on a Bandit? Seems like it might add some much-needed bling to the bike, make it look just a little nicer.
Click to expand...

Yes, I've got Renthal alloy bars - same height as stock but a more comfortable grip angle. They certainly look better than the cheap chrome ones the bike came with.
 
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