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The people and the trees were the highlights. A 51 day ride west.

Day 46-I got up early and left early. I changed oil in an Auto Zone parking lot. I figured the Death Valley heat had ruined any lubricating properties that the old oil had.

I stopped for fuel across from the Airforce base that my wife lived on when they were doing above ground nuclear bomb testing just north of the base in Area 51. They had backyard parties to watch the mushroom cloud go up. This palm frond pointed my camera.
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I am traveling through familiar territory that I have seen many times and stops for pictures were infrequent. Let's face it, in most of Nevada, one picture is just like all the rest. I did have to get on I-15 for close to 150 miles. The alternate route, avoiding interstates, would have added 250 miles.

Utah is not like Nevada.
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It had been a while since I had been to Pipe Springs National Monument, so another visit was needed. The house and fort were both closed for repairs, but the stuff in the visitor's center had changed and outside stuff had been added.

Texas didn't want this loom from the Johnson Ranch, so Pipe Spring got it.
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Why would Texas let something like this get out of Texas?
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An original Mormon settler's wagon in bad shape.
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Pipe springs belonged to the Paiute Indians until Mormon settlers built a fort over it, robbing water from animals and native fauna downstream and starving the Paiutes. A typical Paiute house. In the winter more branches and animal skins were added. The opening faced a fire which was outside the Teepee.
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This scrawny prickly pear is doing all it can to pass on progeny in much less than ideal conditions.
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I made it past Kanab, Utah and about 15 miles down House Rock Valley Road to a remote campsite.
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My saddle bag/dinner table. I changed oil, visited Pine Springs and still rode about 360 miles today, about 30 of which were on roads with deep sand. My bike looks ready to continue, however, a selfie of me would not have revealed a rider ready to continue.
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It's May 20th and very cold after the sun went down. I laid in my sleeping bag reading Ara's book in hopes of staying up late enough that I would sleep late and let the morning sun warm the tent before I had to get out of my warm bed. I failed to take into account the mountains to the east blocking the sun until later in the morning.

As I lay in bed, I read Ara's description of Burr Trail and almost wished I had chosen that instead of tomorrow's hike in Wire Pass.
"Boulder was at the start of another most beautiful ride we would experience many times. It begins at the Burr Trail, paved through a deep and winding Canyon, turns into a very mild and doable unpaved road on to some incredible switchbacks where when ending one can make a right continuing towards Lake Powell. I knew too well by then, there would never be such a thing as "my favorite", but that road is on the top ten for me. I turned 60 that day while within that space, best gift I could ever receive besides an early morning call from my dear Mother, as usual worried about me."
 

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Good? Bad? Arguments for both. If you sell gas in California, you must provide free air, water and the use of a pressure gauge.
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I don't remember the first time I saw a water/air pump that cost money, but I sure wasn't happy to discover it. Free air and water was a given for generations.
 
We stayed in King’s Canyon some years back. Absolutely gorgeous.
 
I know that you are probably here just for the pictures, but please read if you ride. I want to share another excerpt from Ara's book. It's a little long, but good. The page has been folded, a bookmark has been added and I have underlined many lines. Ara and spirit had just gone around Seatle to the Olympic Peninsula where there is a spot that gets 144 inches of rain a year.

"I discovered the most valuable motorcycle aftermarket item we would need day in and day out. Rain Gear. We both had it, Spirit needing his cover daily as the rain or a constant drizzle would not stop. We took a ride to Lake Cushman, an area with many unpaved roads making circles of different diameters all around the Peninsula. The rain spared us some days but a thick fog always present. I knew that anywhere else summer would be in full force and we never did very well around heat." I spent more than a week on the same peninsula and it slightly rained one day and it lulled me to sleep a couple of times, but only started after I was in my tent. I was told a full day of sunshine was rare and I had at least seven in a row.
Ara continues with: "With many children, a Vietnamese family moved in a couple hundred feet from us. Their pots and pans came out and quietly, with much respect, they went on doing their daily chores and oyster picking on the beach across the road. They knew what they were doing since being a yearly outing for them. Vietnamese meant for me that perhaps they spoke French. They did, as I approached them tagging Spirit along on his leash. Instant friendship, food, strong coffee and the kids all wanted to sit in the sidecar under the concerned eyes of Spirit? Many smiles and photos. This is what life on the road is all about. Meeting others from all different walks of life. Sharing conversations, eating together, laughing and the children playing. Good times."

I wish I had written that.
 
I need to get book, is it still available? I think I may have read it some years ago and paid forward. This time I will keep it. Thanks for the reminder Dennie.
 
I know that you are probably here just for the pictures, but please read if you ride.
I This is what life on the road is all about. Meeting others from all different walks of life. Sharing conversations, eating together, laughing and the children playing. Good times."

I wish I had written that.

You did write it....you used pictures instead of words!
 
Again what was that book title? I must have missed it probably to busy looking at the photos which are fantastic by the way.
 
I've no issue pumping a gallon of your premium gas into my bike or truck before my regular starts coming out the hose!
 
MValspeed, I keep my Canon in the top box and use it for most pictures. My phone is readily available under a flap on my tank bag and I use it for keeping track of where I have been and for "in a hurry" pictures. I take a lot of pictures of road signs with it. My memory is fading in certain areas, especially directions and which way to turn when I get to intersections. I get lost a lot and I can look back at the trail of highway signs and see where I've been and can usually figure out which way to turn. Occasionally, I have to call my wife and get her help, but the phone pics work. The phone is also a backup in case of failure or loss of my camera memory card. Some of the pictures posted are from my phone.
Thanks! Good approach, similar to my own. But your photos are much better. Stay safe, ride well.
 
Day 47
A truck drove by on the road about a block away and the rattle caused by stutter bumps woke me up at about 6:30. It was cold, but I got up anyway and ate a bowl of cereal washed down with water and broke camp. When I got to the trailhead of Wire Pass, I was the only vehicle. I didn't see anyone until I was half way back and then it was a steady stream.

I hiked wire pass about 5 years ago and things have changed. There is an organized parking lot with a fee for parking and this tree has washed into the start of the canyon.
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This driftwood about 10' up was not there five years ago.
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Somebody built a ladder
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The ladder was built to eliminate this method of getting out in years past.
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On the way back, I met lots of hikers going into Wire Pass. My empty parking lot had turned into this, and that's only half of it.
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Heading south to the North Rim.
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A re-creation from years past.
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The original
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A pretty spot along 89A
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I stopped at the balanced rock spot because there are usually Navaho ladies selling jewelry in the shade of the rocks. There was only one and she didn't have a turquoise bolo tie.
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I got the last tent site in a campground in Page, Az. This must be a really old campground because these tents must have been left here by previous campers.
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Day 48 coming up later.
 
Dennie your pics are inspiring but they're only half the joy of your posts. I think I am speaking for several of us here to say that your narrative and insight make up at least the other half. Stay with it!
Thanks so much. I have enjoyed the ride and I am enjoying sharing.
 
I used to love those peanut patties as a kid. Never saw one as large as you posted. They were a nickel I supposed the price went up :)
Loving the report. You must stay in excellent shape. I am 72 and a 200 mile trip lays me up the next day. How many miles do you have on the bike?
You can wrench with minimal tools too. My dad taught me how to wrench.
 
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Day 48
I have asked others about the Navaho National Monument and it seems that few ever go there. I was close so..... The visitor center was open, but none of the guided tours into the canyon were available. A self guided tour along the southern rim would have to suffice.

Along the trail
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There is a dwelling in that alcove across the canyon.
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It's not Mesa Verde, but it is impressive. The canyon was abandoned about 700 years ago. Tree rings reveal there was a twenty year drought starting around the year 1300. The Hopi believe that the original builders are still living there. The oral history says that grain, beans and other foods were left there for them when all the living were leaving. Indeed, there is ample archeological evidence that more than an incidental amount of food was left.
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This picture of a side canyon reveals what a little water and shade will do for an environment. There are pine trees in the canyon that usually only grow at higher and cooler elevations with annual snowfalls.
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When I planned this trip, I didn't include any route home. On a spur of the moment, I decided to ride Hwy 95 tomorrow and Monument Valley to Moki Dugway would get me closer.
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The approach that looks like a road that dead ends into a cliff.
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I didn't take the traditional pictures of the Moki.
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This one is looking from the switchbacks that are the normal subject of pictures, to the more gentle curves to the east.
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At the top, I met a Triumph rider that was looking at a paper map. I assured him that his bike was more than capable of going down the dugway. He followed me down to the scenic turnout where he stopped, and I kept going. I don't know if he continued to the bottom or turned around. I went through the Valley of the Gods.
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Ara stayed in the Valley for several weeks. He knew the names of most of the formations, but I like his telling of how they got there. It's not his story, but he wrote it down for us. "The story goes, as Mother Earth mated with the Sun, the buttes are her soldiers standing tall protecting the land. ...... The names were many as I started reading the stories, myths maybe, but nothing wrong believing them."
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On to Monticello where my wife found me a tent site, a cabin with no linen supplied or a motel room. The prices were $80, $80 and $75. I chose motel for $75, but my wife pointed out that the motel didn't have a swimming pool and the campground with the tent site did. I wasn't cold at that time, but I knew I would be if I jumped in a swimming pool. I stuck with the motel and she made the arrangements.

After checking into my room, I went to a convenience store to get milk for breakfast. When I returned to the bike, my phone was ringing. It was my wife and I leaned against the bike while I talked to her and reassured her that I did get her text and I did check into the motel that she had reserved. We hung up and I put on my helmet. When I picked up my gloves off the seat, there was only one glove. The wind wasn't blowing hard, but I looked all around the parking lot and couldn't find it. I even opened the saddle bag with the milk to see if I had accidentally put it in with the milk. No. I went back in the store and asked the lady clerk. Nobody had turned one in, but she offered to help me look. As I was walking away from the counter, she burst into laughter. I turned around and she was pointing at me and was hysterical. When she settled down a little, she told me my glove was stuck on my butt. My jacket has Velcro and a zipper to tie the jacket to matching pants. When I had leaned against the bike seat to talk to Linda, my glove stuck to the bottom of my jacket. :haha: :haha:
 
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I used to love those peanut patties as a kid. Never saw one as large as you posted. They were a nickel I supposed the price went up :)
We're about the same age so you may remember when a large candy bar was a nickel and so was a10oz Coke. You may also remember when a coke in a returnable bottle went from a nickel to 6 cents. That ended my sweets bonanza. Every once in a while, I could round up a dime, but eleven cents was out of the question.
Loving the report. You must stay in excellent shape. I am 72 and a 200 mile trip lays me up the next day. How many miles do you have on the bike?
Thanks. A 200 mile ride doesn't bother me. When I was 69, I did a four hour endurance road race solo. Let's just say I didn't want to do sprints the next day. My current DRZ has 19,5xx miles on it. I have owned it for 11 months and it was just shy of 4,000 when I bought it. I sold #4 last year and it had 32,xxx miles on it. #5 will be for sale in 12-18 months. It will have about 40,000 miles on it if all goes well.
You can wrench with minimal tools too. My dad taught me how to wrench.
A good thing about the DRZ is how simple it is. I can wrap my hands around all the tools needed to RnR the head, do a tune up and change tires.
 
Coming up. I find a retirement house. A different view of the Colorado River. A cattle round up. A rod knocking. Nostalgia motel. And, my longest day ever on a DRZ.
 
Coming up. I find a retirement house. A different view of the Colorado River. A cattle round up. A rod knocking. Nostalgia motel. And, my longest day ever on a DRZ.
Dennis, I still have and use the (little brother to your panniers) yellow case that you gave me at the Kolache shop in Caldwell. Every time I strap it to the bike or tie it to my kayak, I’m reminded of your kindness. 😊😎
 
The best 10 years of my motorcycling addiction were spent in California. I've been on all those roads, many of them again and again, and your photos bring them all back. Thanks for that, I do wish to return sometime and look up some of my old riding buddies and pick up a great big stack of performance awards.
 
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