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What did you do in the garage today?

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FE_Rex said:
If that tractor does not have a "Live" or "Independent" PTO. I STRONGLY recommend a Over-running Clutch clutch in the PTO driveline.

I do apologize if you know this. I would rather be seen a swarmy know-it-all than to have someone hurt or that beautiful tractor scratched
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The mower does not cut unless the PTO lever is engaged, and the tractor is rolling in gear. If I depress the clutch, the PTO disengages regardless of throttle setting.

What have I got?
 
I can never explain this is in a way that doesn't make my head hurt but I'll try here

Old School PTO - PTO driven off transmission output. Basically if you are in gear, and the PTO lever is on, the PTO is connected to the rear wheel gear train. If you push in clutch AND are in gear, your tractor won't stop moving until the mower stops turning. May not sound too bad until you need to stop fast. An overrunning clutch in driveline allows mower to "spin-down" without driving PTO. Basically, overrunning clutch will allow mower to "spin-down" without driving tractor forward.

Independent PTO - You will have lever that will engage and disengage PTO - regardless of drive clutch position, whether the tire are moving or still, whether in or out of gear. This feature came out in mid-60's.

Live PTO - clutch will have two stages. Stages will not be readily apparent to the unknowing. If clutch pedal is full down, you will have no drive wheel or PTO function (in gear/out of gear. PTO lever on or off). As you release the clutch to the first stage, the PTO will engage (if the lever is on), but, at THIS point of clutch travel, even if in gear, the drive wheels will not engage. If you further release the clutch, if in gear, the drive gear will engage also. Also if your wheels are turning and the PTO spinning , you can push in clutch to the transmission stage and the wheels will stop, but the PTO will still turn. Fully depressing clutch will disengage wheel drive and PTO drive

Skip to 1:20

Overrunning coupler
 
FE_Rex said:
I can never explain this is in a way that doesn't make my head hurt but I'll try here

Old School PTO - PTO driven off transmission output. Basically if you are in gear, and the PTO lever is on, the PTO is connected to the rear wheel gear train. If you push in clutch AND are in gear, your tractor won't stop moving until the mower stops turning. May not sound too bad until you need to stop fast. An overrunning clutch in driveline allows mower to "spin-down" without driving PTO. Basically, overrunning clutch will allow mower to "spin-down" without driving tractor forward.

Independent PTO - You will have lever that will engage and disengage PTO - regardless of drive clutch position, whether the tire are moving or still, whether in or out of gear. This feature came out in mid-60's.

Live PTO - clutch will have two stages. Stages will not be readily apparent to the unknowing. If clutch pedal is full down, you will have no drive wheel or PTO function (in gear/out of gear. PTO lever on or off). As you release the clutch to the first stage, the PTO will engage (if the lever is on), but, at THIS point of clutch travel, even if in gear, the drive wheels will not engage. If you further release the clutch, if in gear, the drive gear will engage also. Also if your wheels are turning and the PTO spinning , you can push in clutch to the transmission stage and the wheels will stop, but the PTO will still turn. Fully depressing clutch will disengage wheel drive and PTO drive

Skip to 1:20

Overrunning coupler
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Id second this after running through a barb wire fence with a 52 8n tractor.
Im sure this finish mower wont be that bad as it does not have the amount of moving mass that a brush hog has. The last slip clutch/ over ride adapter i bought at tractor suplly was about $60 sonits cheep enough.
 
Yep, walked right past the clutches at tractor supply yesterday. I guess I'll be going back.

Being a '62, there are no whiz-bang features on it. Mr. Hayney didn't offer it, either...
 
Wasn't really in the garage, but it was my first try at roasting coffee. Hopefully I'll actually understand what I'm doing someday. haha
PXL_20210109_171117613.jpg
 
grandpaul said:
You said it, and it shows! They sell a whole lot of stuff that ain't tractor-related!
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It did start out farm related but as the manager of thr local one pointed out there is way more markup on the foofy, i live in the country tin plates, than in farm supplies. The problem he says is that the floor plan $ stay the same and his bonuses are tied to proffit so its better to use that limited $ and floor space on things that have. Higher proffit margins.
 
Tim Scholz said:
It did start out farm related but as the manager of thr local one pointed out there is way more markup on the foofy, i live in the country tin plates, than in farm supplies. The problem he says is that the floor plan $ stay the same and his bonuses are tied to proffit so its better to use that limited $ and floor space on things that have. Higher proffit margins.
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I always thought of TSC as Autozone for farmers
 
grandpaul said:
Actually, it's still essentially ALL farm-related. Most local farms have families with kids, so... We bought a "DogOpoly" game there, the kids love it.

I like the place, good hardware selection.
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Now that we have an Atwoods i shop there for most farm related stuff.
I have bought many, many, pounds of nuts and bolts from tractor supplys bulk bins to keep my shop stocked so i dont have to make a 30 mile round trip for a 65,cent bolt from a part store.
 
My wife bought a Toyota Highlander at the beginning of December, so I parked the trusty Honda Civic (it's for sale, btw) and took over her 2010 Dodge Ram. It's a nice 4-door truck with a 5.7L Hemi, but some parts were getting a little long in the tooth.

The first thing that needed to be done was to replace the side mirrors. I had replaced the original (very broken) mirrors a few years ago, but I had ordered towing mirrors by mistake, and while they worked the were ugly as sin and whistled as we drove down the road. I spent a little more than I wanted to on OEM mirrors, but it was really the only good option, and now they look and function as they should.

Last weekend I added a a new stereo head unit with a backup camera from Crutchfield (Boss BV755BLC), and the install went so well (even after taking a hacksaw to the inner console) that I ordered a remote entry system (Viper 412V). After I placed my order I received call from one of their alarm techs and we added the resistors required for my Dodge, and since I had looked over the schematic already and I only wanted to operate the door locks I talked though my wiring plan with him.

Yesterday was install day, and as it turns out, the instructions on the Viper left out a little bit of important information (a second wire needed to be grounded) so after I had the install 'done' I had to call back and get with another tech. It's all good now, and I was seriously impressed with every phase of the experience I had with Crutchfield.com. They have a very clear website, quick delivery, and outstanding support. There is no doubt I'll add them to my list of go-tos along with Monoprice.com and RockAuto.com.

While I was upgrading, I ordered a new drivers lower seat foam and an oem matching seatcover. These were found on ebay. I pulled the seat and swapped out the parts yesterday after the Viper was functional. Hog ring pliers would have been nice, but I muddled though. It's hard to overestimate how much changing out the foam and cover affected the overall feel of the truck. From a 'seat of the pants' perspective it feels like a new truck.

I'm not going to do much of any cosmetic repairs to the body but touch up a few deep scratches. There are a few dents and dings on every panel, but I don't care. I don't want to clean the lines up and then end up worrying about it, so I won't!

The last thing I need to figure out now is a tool storage option for under the rear seat.
 
Ooh baby!

The boy and I hit up the local u-pull-it yard (BYOT Bryan) because they were having a 50% off weekend. I had noticed a car with some Bilstein touring shocks a couple weeks ago. Went back and they were still there. Walked out of there with a full set of good Bilsteins for my daughters Volvo V70 for 47 dollars!

The boy picked up a clean tail light to replace a cracked one on his Focus and we found a vintage Kenwood tape deck. A quick google shows them going for decent money on ebay for vintage 2-post style cars.
 
grandpaul said:
Actually, it's still essentially ALL farm-related. Most local farms have families with kids, so... We bought a "DogOpoly" game there, the kids love it.

I like the place, good hardware selection.
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Was at TSC here in California yesterday buying some food storage bins for pet food and some lengths of towing/logging chain and binders. Picked up some yard decor for the wife too- a little rooster made out of sheet metal. I enjoy wandering around the place.
 
cheez said:
Was at TSC here in California yesterday buying some food storage bins for pet food and some lengths of towing/logging chain and binders. Picked up some yard decor for the wife too- a little rooster made out of sheet metal. I enjoy wandering around the place.
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We have TSC and Atwoods here. Atwoods is very similar but has more of a walmart lean it seems and sells guns, ammo and more clothing and shoes/boots. I like wandering around the place.
 
Yesterday after work I rebuilt the front suspension on the CJ. New springs, shocks and bushings.
 
This was my Saturday morning project yesterday. I have a 99 R1100GS, about 79,000 miles. I've been noticing a little bit of metallic noise on cold start ups (below 40 degrees) in the last few weeks. Did a little bit of research and found it is a common problem on early oilheads, the left hand cam chain tensioner is not such a great design. Ordered an upgraded tensioner from Euromotoelectric and spent about 15 minutes installing. Instantly solved the chain slap noise, YEAH! While I was looking at their website I noticed they also had a fuel injector upgrade kit back in stock (I've been waiting a few months for it to be available again). It upgrades the old single hole bosch injectors to the newer 4 hole style. Simple 15 minute install on that as well. WOW, what a difference! This may be the single best bang for buck upgrade I've ever done on the old bike. Super smooth idle, no hiccups or hesitations like it used to have. Starts easier, runs smoother at all RPM's but especially when just putzing along at 3000 rpm or so. Went for 110 mile ride yesterday and it is like a different bike. Looks like there is going to be a significant improvement in gas mileage as well. I'm still above half a tank at 110 miles, never had that happen before. It's pretty nice when $275 bucks makes you fall in love with your old bike again!
 
Brian Shipley said:
This was my Saturday morning project yesterday. I have a 99 R1100GS, about 79,000 miles. I've been noticing a little bit of metallic noise on cold start ups (below 40 degrees) in the last few weeks. Did a little bit of research and found it is a common problem on early oilheads, the left hand cam chain tensioner is not such a great design. Ordered an upgraded tensioner from Euromotoelectric and spent about 15 minutes installing. Instantly solved the chain slap noise, YEAH! While I was looking at their website I noticed they also had a fuel injector upgrade kit back in stock (I've been waiting a few months for it to be available again). It upgrades the old single hole bosch injectors to the newer 4 hole style. Simple 15 minute install on that as well. WOW, what a difference! This may be the single best bang for buck upgrade I've ever done on the old bike. Super smooth idle, no hiccups or hesitations like it used to have. Starts easier, runs smoother at all RPM's but especially when just putzing along at 3000 rpm or so. Went for 110 mile ride yesterday and it is like a different bike. Looks like there is going to be a significant improvement in gas mileage as well. I'm still above half a tank at 110 miles, never had that happen before. It's pretty nice when $275 bucks makes you fall in love with your old bike again!
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Well crap. there went $200 for the R100RT - this better be worth it

I concur on the chain tensioner. It shut-up the noise on my 75K mile R1100RTP
 
FE_Rex said:
Well crap. there went $200 for the R100RT - this better be worth it

I concur on the chain tensioner. It shut-up the noise on my 75K mile R1100RTP
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Falling in love again with the old model again, is always cheaper than a divorse and the expence of a new model. ;-).
 
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