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What did you do in the garage today?

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Took the time Friday to do the fuel lines on the bike. I think I got the o-rings pretty close. Fishing the disintegrated old ones out sucked.
Looks like I still need to get some tiny bits out of there.

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The ones on the tank are stupid hard, with two rings high and low, and they seemed welded in the grooves. Again, I think I done good.

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So I think I might actually finish this today when.....

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The cuss jar is full.
 
In general, what's your favorite approach to shelving?
In this case, it's not in the garage, but in a roughly 3' x 3' closet.
Thinking #1 for ability to support brass and lead items, but adjust the shelving height & spacing later. Might have to add a 2x4 slotted vertical brace to the shelves.
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1. Metal U-channel, metal supports and 1x 12 pine boards? Looking at HD, they don't appear to even sell that any more.
Horizontal track and vertical floating U-channels with slotted supports looks like the current solution.
2. Variations on the open wire shelving? I don't see much benefit to the open wire shelving for this application.
3. 2x4 structure and plywood? trying to get away from bulk. Got the heavy-duty plastic shelving now that just takes up too much space.
 

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Changed oil in the CB500X, installed new hood struts on the Camry (the 13 year old originals had a good run), new air filter in the XT250, and a new battery in the PCX150.

The original Yuasa battery lasted six years, so I replaced it with another factory charged Yuasa. It only lasted three years, one month, so I was a little disappointed. I think my usb charger that I have plugged into my battery tender lead has a parasitic draw. I forgot to unplug it after one of the rides a few months back, and it took the battery down to nothing after about two weeks of non-use. It charged up fine but I’m thinking it may have been damaged by going so low and lately it started dragging some after sitting for just a few days at a time. Yesterday afternoon it was flat dead.
 
Tracker said:
In general, what's your favorite approach to shelving?
In this case, it's not in the garage, but in a roughly 3' x 3' closet.
Thinking #1 for ability to support brass and lead items, but adjust the shelving height & spacing later. Might have to add a 2x4 slotted vertical brace to the shelves.
View attachment 368429.

1. Metal U-channel, metal supports and 1x 12 pine boards? Looking at HD, they don't appear to even sell that any more.
Horizontal track and vertical floating U-channels with slotted supports looks like the current solution.
2. Variations on the open wire shelving? I don't see much benefit to the open wire shelving for this application.
3. 2x4 structure and plywood? trying to get away from bulk. Got the heavy-duty plastic shelving now that just takes up too much space.
Click to expand...

I typically build them out of whatever wood I can find around. I'm much better at working with square tubing than wood for some reason as far as making it presentable. I've thought about ripping out my existing hodgepodge shelving and whatnot and building shelves out of 1x1 steel tubing, which is really cheap, and the thinner 14 gauge stuff is pretty stout.
 
After 16 years of owner her, I finally felt enough guilt that I took time to add a poper brush guard to the Kubota. This poor thing as been abused by far too many sticks while using the grapple moving and burning cedars.

First I started with a new 24" x 36" peice of steel with 0.75" holes. Figured this would be strong enough to provide a proper defense and yet breath enough to not cause heating issues.
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I tacked it in place and continued to make adjustments to the final dimensions.
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The stock brush guard is not flat so it took some heat, clamps and a bit of hammering to get it sorted out. Finished welding a bit of grinding to hide the mistakes.

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A little paint
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I think it came out pretty darn good for a hack like me.

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Out for a test run, relocating a dead tree into the burn pile.
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After 2 days of work, she looks unscathed. Nothing passed through that shouldn't have. You can see towards the bottom, it blocked a few things. That is where the battery is located, right in front of the cooler and radiator. I have come back from a day of work to notice a stick in the middle of the battery... She still started even with only have the acid in it.

Note the similarity in color between the Kubota and KTM...

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This right here is a genuine hair puller the first time you run into it because touching it will make it make contact again and you will move on digging for the bad spot.
Once you run into it you will not forget it.
This is a good pic of a fractured fuse.

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Had a fuse in the wireing for the slideout on the new rv the boss bought in Wyoming with a loose holder giving us fits , sometimes the slide out worked , sometimes not . I found it by having Kevin operate it while i was in the control panel testing . It was daylight so i couldnt see the spark but when i pushed the fuse it worked so i knew there was a problem ended up pulling the fuse out and trying a spade wire terminal in the plug slots then i could feel one was loose stick a pick between the holder and the terminal to tighten it and good as new . The po was cranking the slideout in and out with a wrench .

put the trans back in my beater truck yesterday , not buckled up yet but its snuggled to the motor and setting on the rear cross member . Overdrive planetary exploded and self destructed . I did abuse it occasionly . Thousand bucks for everything in the overdrive and reseal , rest of it all looked good after 90,000 miles since it was built up , its possible i could see that truck turn over half a million miles .
 
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Pedro 2.0 said:
View attachment 368848

Far as I got today...
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Well Pete, nice to see you parting out the Harley! LOL. I assume you are making it a trike? Should be a huge pain, but might be fun. I applaud you for the shop and bike cleanliness, I try to do that, but usually fail, sir. Looking forward to the posts.
 
Got parts. Kinda.

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The Drag Specialties line was the only thing that indicated correct, so I got one. It's a lot shorter than the stock one, but I'll make it work.
The other line is nowhere near as long as stock, but it's just the return line. Stock goes on a clip on top of the inside tank hump.
I'm guessing this one just sticking straight up in the tank probably touching the top won't be a big deal.

No one has the filter, although it doesn't seem to be an issue. The strainer is opened at a seam and no one has that either.
What's safe to use to seal the seam immersed in gasoline?

When can I get to it? That's the new 64,000 dollar question. :thpt:
 
My parts got delayed a day and arrived late, so I didn't get around to wrapping up the transmission swap until today. Of course, my rear springs came in after I closed up the shop for the day. So that will be next week project. But it's in, it drives and 5th gear works with no issues. Mission accomplished. My phone battery died before I finished up, should have charged it up before hand.

 
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Had a coil go out on my son's Scion tC yesterday.
Showed my son how to figure out if it was a coil or plug (or wiring) by moving the coil.
Got a cheap set of replacements of Amazon delivered today.
Had him change it so he can learn more about car maintenance.
I know cheap coils are a crapshoot, but figure I can get 4 cheap coils for $40 vs at least $90 for a single good coil.
It takes less than 5 minutes to change a coil on this thing, so just keep an extra in the car with a 10mm socket and a cheap code reader if it happens again.
With 156,000 miles on what I am guessing are original coils, chances of another one going out are high, so having a few spares is nice.
My daughter also has a Scion xB with the same motor, so can use it on that if needed (she only has 85,000 miles on hers though).

I was told when I got the vehicle that a tune up had been done on it, and almost did not pull the plug, but decided to since it had a misfire on it. Glad I did.
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The far right plug was what was under the bad coil, but all the plugs needed to be changed for sure.
While I am not sure if these are the original plugs, they were not changed 10,000 miles ago as the previous owner implied.

Car runs great now, always had a little stumble to it at idle, but that is gone now.
My son says it feels peppier now as well.
I went with platinum plugs instead of OEM iridium. 4 Denso platinum plugs were $14 out the door, vs $10 each for iridium.
I was going to go with copper since plug changes are so easy, but the platinum was cheaper than copper at Auto Zone (I refuse to order plugs online, too much counterfeit issues and hard to return a plug damaged in shipping), Advance Auto had some iridium on sale for $2.50 each, but no nearby stores had any in stock.

Little side note, my son is starting to understand why I do maintenance myself.
He brought his girlfriends grandmothers suv to Take 5 Oil Change (she refused his offer to change it) and was shocked that the oil change was almost $100 with synthetic oil. He knows I have about 30 gallons of synthetic oil in the garage that I spent maybe $120 on all of it.
He asked how much it would have cost to bring his car to the shop and have it fixed, and told him at least $300, if not more ($60-80 diagnostic fee, minimum $100 for the coil, $40 for plugs, and probably an hour labor).
He was like "but it did not even take 30 minutes and $60".
I had to remind him that I had to purchase a code reader and tools, so there is the added cost of that, but over time, that cost is minimal compared to the saving of doing it yourself.
He is about due for brakes (already have pads) so he wants to know how to do those as well.
 
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