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What did you do in the garage today?

Today... I just re-removed the front brake master cylinder...

This weekend, I finished replacing the rubber lines with steel braided lines, and cleaned and rebuilt the calipers and MC.
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I borrowed an untrasonic cleaner that was apparently build for these calipers - exact fit!

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Man were they a mess. One piston on the right was very stuck in there, and two on the left. But, they cleaned up really nicely.. maybe not 100% good a new, but mirror finish all around. Seals were (hopefully) fine and I re-used them. New sintered pads, re-assemble and bleed. It was a little bit of a trick getting fluid to run clean thru the ABS pump... I had to pressurize the MC side and mighty-vac the caliper side.... but it gave way, gunk flowed out, and after that it was pretty smooth sailing.

After bleeding 1.5 bottles of fluid thru it, I was feeling good. I tightened up all the bleed nipples, pumped the brakes several times to push the pistons out, aligning the calipers before torquing them down... and that's where it stuck. Opening the caliper bleed nipples instantly releases the calipers. Pump it once or twice and it's locked up again. Open the MC bleed nipple and the calipers release. So.. OK, its the tiny passage back to the overflow reservoir ... right? Only thing it can be. I disconnected the reservoir... containing the fluid as much as possible.. and when I pull the lever like that, fluid gushes out that hole. So, seems free enough.

Back to today: I've pulled the MC again, passed 1 thread from an electrical wire thru that hole and found nothing. Ran it thru the ultrasonic again... but don't feel too certain I've fixed anything. What else would cause the calipers to lock closed, but then instantly release when I vent the lines on either the top or bottom sides? Or is that passage really small enough to get blocked by something invisible, and then free up?
 
When I installed ss lines on my rz, I had the opposite problem. Wouldn't build pressure. Turned out the banjo bolts were drilled differently. Unlikely I guess, but easy to check.
 
It's possible that the MC piston is not retracting far enough to uncover the bleed hole. I've seen it happen, but can't remember what caused it. Bad spring? Reversed seal? Hmm. Maybe it was the lever--something kept if from releasing all the way.

Googly moogly, those parts are clean!
 
Got around to changing the timing belts on my Desert Sled. I just bought the bike two months ago and the belts were six years old. So despite the low mileage, I didn't want to chance it. Not a hard job - just fiddly. The desmo service fun will happen in another 3k.
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I also vinyl wrapped the tank panel inserts and put some old school decals on there. I wasn’t a big fan of the original silver panels.
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Got around to changing the timing belts on my Desert Sled. I just bought the bike two months ago and the belts were six years old. So despite the low mileage, I didn't want to chance it. Not a hard job - just fiddly. The desmo service fun will happen in another 3k.
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I also vinyl wrapped the tank panel inserts and put some old school decals on there. I wasn’t a big fan of the original silver panels.
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The vinyl wrapped tank panels caught  our attention before  we read your post...
💯 agreed on that mod, it draws your attention to the bike 🏍...
👍👍😎
 
No big deal. It will most likely be only a valve check. Chances are they will be in spec.

-Jeff
I was surprised how easy the Desmo valve maintenance was. I expected some huge complications. Mitch and I did it and we argued over the settings until we understood it, then it was pretty straight forward. Those Desmos are ok. My Multistradas were just difficult to get the tank off of, once that was done, the bike was a breeze to work on.
 
I was surprised how easy the Desmo valve maintenance was. I expected some huge complications. Mitch and I did it and we argued over the settings until we understood it, then it was pretty straight forward. Those Desmos are ok. My Multistradas were just difficult to get the tank off of, once that was done, the bike was a breeze to work on.
So, do you have the tuning fork that you balance on the inner lip of the left tailpipe to indicate when the belt tension is correct?
 
I was surprised how easy the Desmo valve maintenance was. I expected some huge complications. Mitch and I did it and we argued over the settings until we understood it, then it was pretty straight forward. Those Desmos are ok. My Multistradas were just difficult to get the tank off of, once that was done, the bike was a breeze to work on.
From what I've read so far the only difficult part is lack of space on the vertical cylinder exhaust valve. It can't be any worse than doing the valves on my old Katoom 950. But definitely not as easy as my airhead.
 
I used the Gates app. The readings did vary but you could tell which ones were noise. I would get a 137 Hz reading and then the next few would be 60 or 70 then another 137. It does need to do be quiet when you do it. My garage fan was screwing things up.
 
Servicing the K bike, I realized I might be a redneck. I have a BMW on a second-hand Harbor Freight lift

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Just finished up - Parts ordering and USPS misdirection slowed me down

In keeping with the other highly qualified mechanical-type persons who post here - I am only using proper tools for the job

Vaccinating the final drive with a 180cc shot of Mobil 1. Please note use of fuel pump seal ring (BMW even) looped around peg for the caliper support ziptie. I just realized I was so lazy I left the label in the pan

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Using a FACTORY TOOL when removing the oil filter - Hey the factory that made the tool had throttle by wire in 2009, this bike is 5 years newer and still uses cables. Both companies mount the filter horizontally so you have divert spillage with junk mail

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Also found a leaky caliper during the bleed - hence parts ordering and ensuing USPS fiasco. For a multi-piston caliper nothing beats a Harbor Freight ball joint tool for removing pistons. The pad and lever hold all but one piston in place - you pop-out that piston, remove the seals and replace the piston. Reposition the setup to do the next piston. You can then clean-up the caliper and rebuild it.

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I highly recommend speedbleeders and bleeder bag & hose from speedbleeders.com. They really neaten up the job and make it quick for one person.

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Took a short test jaunt to the stop sign at the FM road and back. Stopped and took a pix on the drive (for proof). Looks like I wasted my time waxing the rear rim.

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First time I have been on this bike for around a year. Previous to knee replacement and PT, I couldn't get either foot on pegs. Left knee was tough but my aftermarket knee felt good. Depending on tomorrows ride to lunch - the bike may be for sale. I don't want to get somewhere and not be able to ride it home
 
They are all over the place. Use some silicone dielectric grease on the rubber and thoroughly clean it after every use. Works great on boxer transmissions as well

 
That syringe is a handy item for final drives. Also....have used a plastic bottle from a hair salon. It's used to apply different treatments to the patient. Has a snout that easily reaches the filler hole along with measurements marked on the side so you know how much.

:lol2:Will add I've never been a patient in a hair solon for enhancements
 
Ya'll got me looking at different syringes now. The largest we have at work is a 60ml but the only come in certain kits we get, 30ml is the largest we can easily get though our supply system. I found this 1000cc syringe on Amazon for 20 bucks. Could make some maintenance things I deal with easier than my usual gear oil container with the top cut off and a section of vinyl hose from Home Depot lol.

1 liter syringe
 
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