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WR250R Fuel Pump...plus Code 33!

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bwdmax said:
Found this out on the web. You can effectively bypass clutch and KS switch in one spot and bypass this relay. Connection at relay or relay itself may be faulty.

"check the starting circuit cut-off relay (behind the rear left shroud, where that exup wiring exists)...
without removing it, jump the Blue/Yellow wire and the Blue/Green wire, effectively bypassing the kickstand/clutch/neutral combo...
if it works, the relay is at fault...if it doesn't, this is a good time to confirm that the kickstand switch bypass is good (Blue/Green to ground)...
remember to remove the jumper when done! or else the bike will start in gear-no clutch... "
Click to expand...

Hmmm, ok, I'll check that out. Thanks Gary.

Since I will need to put the bike back together to do this, I'll try the original coil too.

I ordered a new coil 3 days ago but still haven't received a shipping notification, guess it's gonna be a bit before it arrives.
 
Got the delivery notification the coil is here. I'll drop it in tomorrow and see how she goes.
 
Well I'm stumped, the new coil tests about the same reading as the first new one. And both not near the original one :scratch:
 
What are they supposed to read? Which of them is in spec.?
 
bwdmax said:
What are they supposed to read? Which of them is in spec.?
Click to expand...

Suppose to read:
Primary coil resistance 1.19–1.61 Ω Secondary coil resistance 8.50–11.50 kΩ

It is the original coil that's closest to being in those readings @ 1.6 and 9.44

Newest one is 00.3 and 5.47.

The other new replacement is about the same as that.

I'm measuring them the same way. IDK why the discrepancy.
 
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I would put the original back in and bypass at the relay I posted above. Just stick a jumper wire in the back of the plug. The only other thing might be to find a way to put meter in the 12v leading up to coil to monitor 12v to see if the voltage is steady. That would tell you if it’s the coil or the circuit feeding the coil. That way you at least know which dark room to search in.
 
bwdmax said:
I would put the original back in and bypass at the relay I posted above. Just stick a jumper wire in the back of the plug. The only other thing might be to find a way to put meter in the 12v leading up to coil to monitor 12v to see if the voltage is steady. That would tell you if it’s the coil or the circuit feeding the coil. That way you at least know which dark room to search in.
Click to expand...
Ok, I'll see how I can get this up and give it a shot Thanks Gary.

Edit: did not beat the rain
 
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Gary, forgot to ask, when I start the bike bypassing the telay, do I need to start the bike in gear? Or with side stand up? Or basically simulate a condition that would not allow the bike to normally start?


Cause pictures are fun...

Pulled out the guts. Dirty in there.
260145


These are the wires going into relay. That's where I can put a little jumper between the two
260146


Part number
260148
 
You are on the right track. Yes just put a jumper between blue/Yellow to Blue/Green then you should be able to start the bike in any condition: side stand up or down, in gear out of gear. I would secure the jumper with some tape or other means and ride it. If this keeps it running then you know you have an issue with one of the safety switches or that relay.
 
Jumped the pins with needles and alligator clips, bike would not start in the No Start conditions. It seemed to work properly.

If it stays non-rainy for the next couple hours I'm going to go for a spin. Gonna clear the existing 33 code now to see what happens on the next time out.

Windmill, battery is relatively new. I changed it recently.
 
Went out for a 40 mile spin w nary a hiccup. And the LFL came on right on time.

Bike is working just fine.

Ughh! I don't understand this thing.

To summarize, currently, the bike has a new fuel pump, new regulator, new spark plug, a new IAP sensor and the original coil.

Also cleaned the ON/OFF switch, the ECU harness, the behind-the-radiator harness, coil plug harness, start circuit cut off relay harness, side stand switch, battery terminals, fuses and continuity and resistance checked all.

Got back to the house ~14miles into the LFL and filled it up. I guess the bike is working now (I'm hesitant to really be happy and say that for fear of jinxing myself!).
_________________
edit:

After some big picture thinking, start to finish...
I think the overall big necessary repair was the fuel pump and regulator. I think one of those two had bought the farm so new pump/reg solved the "it won't idle" issue that left us in a parking lot at BB. I know I had codes stored from previous work on the kickstand, speedo, reg.rec, etc so those codes were accounted for and cleared. I suspect code 33 was a rabbit hole I got caught in because I couldn't account for it anywhere else. I replaced the coil before doing fuel pump work and I think that's where my troubleshooting went off course. The pump/reg were the correct fix to get the bike to run, but in doing so I created a real code 33 but putting in a new out of spec coil. And, as of right now I have no idea why the original code 33 popped. I can only wager a guess it's because the original coil is reading on the high end of it's resistance range. And no I have no answer for 'Then why didn't set the code tonight on the test ride?' My answer is, I don't know). I think replacing the coil when code 33 popped was the proper troubleshooting move, along with a new spark plug, in fact I was confident they'd help. But I failed to verify the coil was good in the first place. I bought two replacement coils - both are not testing within specs. IDK if that is my testing or if new parts really do come out of spec that often. This scenario alone is driving home the "buy dealer parts only" mantra, least for the bike. I know aftermarket trucks parts better. Both coils were bought from sources that should have been and seemed legit, so I'm disappointed at the results. I'm not going to even try to return them. The fact they're testing out of spec for the model they are advertised for, it would be wrong..

I think cleaning the harnesses and contacts and terminals helped (when does it hurt?) but I have no way of knowing for sure.

I moved around a lot of clumps of wiring looms today that were all crammed in behind the side panel. A small part of me hopes that I am not dealing with a broken wire inside it's insulation that got "reconnected" because I giggled things around. It is a common issue on my truck in several specific cab locations, and that causes intermittent issues until those wires are replaced. Fingers crosses not the same situation!

I'm cautiously optimistic. I wanna ride. I got things to do. I guess we will see what happens from here.
 
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I’m glad it up and running.
 
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