Somewhere, I have a pic of a skinny Me, in My custom bell-bottoms, doing a high speed stand-up wheelie on My Kaw 175. I was Senior in High School.
If you are sucking air you should look at the seal under the flywheel. The rotory valve side will suck oil.
Glad I could be of assistance.
Like jello No drain plug on mine. But, this'll wait until I get the air / fuel stuff sorted out.DaveC said:How are the forks?
Hmm, interesting. I am sucking air - so I'll go 'round to the left and look in there. BUT, I also found one problem on the valve side:
Getting into the valve cover, all the screws came out fairly easy and nice and clean. Except the top one:
Rusted pretty badly! And the 120mm o-ring behind the cover was in good shape - everywhere except at the top:
The screw boss is outside the o-ring, but I've got to think that a rusty screw at the position of that o-ring failure have to be related. And - a leak up that high would almost certainly suck air - especially that close to the intake.
The valve seal itself looks brand new. I've got an NOS seal on order. If I can't tell the new from the old, should I bother replacing the old one?
There was visible wear behind the rotary valve:
It's not deep, but it's more than I expected. That's on the engine case itself, which again is a bummer. I'm nervous about leaving this as it is, but I'm also nervous about trying to smooth that out without really screwing up the case. I'd really rather not have to fully rebuild this engine.
I'm going to test the oil pump. The injector sprays the oil into the intake before the valve. Unless either of those two holes at the bottom of the case behind the valve provide oil from the crankcase, then the engine-side of the valve would be totally dry. So, maybe the engine was run with too little oil in the case?
In other news, I had a hard time getting the clutch hub off. Bought be a clutch removal tool, but the teeth on it were way to big to get a good grip on the teeth on the hub. So, I build my own tool:
Didn't take too much pressure to get it all apart then. Clutch plates, springs, and everything else in there look brand-new. I'll measure all to make sure we're in spec, but only 750 miles on this thing, so all should just re-assemble as-is.
Those clutch spring bosses that you screwed your tool into will break really easily. It is cool that you found a solution but be very careful using the bosses to hold the hub. They are not made to take ANY side load at all. Maybe find some one that will let you borrow their electric or battery-powered impact. No holder necessary then if you can get the torque close to what the spec is.
Yes - getting it off actually didn't take a lot of torque. Getting it torqued back on will likely strain those bosses more than intended.
But - even with an impact driver, that's still going to try to twist that whole housing around. Right? Or, are the impacts quick enough to be able to lock the hub down a little easier?
Most dirt bikes these days call for around 50-60 ft pounds on that nut. Yours is probably less.
Here is is My 75 Bighorn.
Donson you have every bike I would love to have, Hats off to you Brother, well done.
As long as you've got it that far apart, probably should tighten the power band.
Get the lime green power band it's the fastest
Ahh, of course! Especially on this Kawasaki! You guys are full of great advise!
Long time, no update...
I've been distracted with other stuff, so the bike has been sitting in pieces since early March. Last weekend, I put 'er all back together and tried to fire it up.
No spark!
That's a new problem, and is frustrating as the electrics in this thing were working perfectly. Tried a new plug, then ANOTHER new plug, and that didn't help. So, I need to pull the flywheel and examine the coils.
So: that's where I am now. I bought a gear puller to try to extract the flywheel, but no luck so far. Who knows the magic process to remove a flywheel that's been stationary for about 40 years? I've tightened the gear puller more than I'm comfortable doing. How much torque should I be applying here? Would an impact wrench on the gear puller be a bad idea?
The correct tool is cheap and effective in this case. I think this is it:
http://www.rmstator.com/en_ca/produ...i-1970-2007-suzuki-1987-2008-yamaha-1968-2007