I got my first bike! :) Then I dropped it on my truck! :(

[grendal]

I doin't have the bunion issue, but I do have to wear an orthodic for arch support. I just pulled the original sole inserts our of my boots and replaced them with my orthodic. My boots are excpetionally comfy and are my daily footwear even when not riding. They are the Sidi GT Sympatex boots. I paid quite a bit more than the closeout price at New Enough These boots are awesome. The leather is soft and supple where needed and reinforced where needed. Mine were comfy right out of the box with no need for break in.

Adios,

I'm considering ordering these.... They look as though they'd be compatible, assuming they're not overly tight. If I usually wear an 11W, should I go w/ a 45 or a 46? Do they take exchanges for size issues?

Thanks,

Michael

 

[wonder91178]

Maybe you can answer a question for me... What exactly are the shoe/boot requirements for the course? I obviously don't have riding boots yet.

-Michael

For the MSF course most students are told to just have shoes (boots) that cover your ankles. Some in my class wore work boots, some wore hiking style boots, just some ankle protection.

After the class you'll have a feel for what you'll need to get because you'll have had a little more time on a bike and know the movements your feet will make

Like Tourmeister said, good boots are paramount, when I was in my wreck, I had tennis shoes on, my foot got caught between the peg and the shifter when I lowsided my bike and I fractured my ankle.

Kim

 

[Texas T]

Oh, and yes, the front does seem very soft/easy to compress.... Where would I get springs??

Here ya go....
Sonic Springs

 

[Tourmeister]

Michael,

I wear a 10 E. I have size 45 boots. They fit relaxed, not loose, but not tight either. I don't really think you will find a boot as wide as you want without custom fitting

Adios,

 

[grendal]

Oh, and yes, the front does seem very soft/easy to compress.... Where would I get springs??

Here ya go....
Sonic Springs

Can you explain the differences:

EX/Ninja 500 - 0.85kg/mm Sonic Springs $79.95
EX/Ninja 500 - 0.90kg/mm Sonic Springs $79.95
EX/Ninja 500 - 0.95kg/mm Sonic Springs $79.95
EX/Ninja 500 - 1.00kg/mm Sonic Springs $79.95

I assume since I am a heavy rider the higher spring number would be better?

Thanks for putting up with my n00b-ness. Heh. This sucks. Just as I get pretty decently good w/ car mechanicals and know the LT1 engine pretty good, now I start over. heh.

-Michael

 

[Challen]

I'm signed up for the Sunday/Monday class on Memorial Day weekend (May 29/30). Is that the one you're teaching?.... If my class is taught by a David, I will know, I guess. Hah.

Maybe you can answer a question for me... What exactly are the shoe/boot requirements for the course?

I'm teaching Range 2 that weekend, so I'll definitely get to meet you in the classroom.

For the range, the exact requirements are "sturdy, over-the-ankle boots or shoes". Ropers or high top tennis shoes will work. Converse basketball shoes will not.

Don't buy boots for the street yet. We'll talk about them in class, plus you'll get 15% coupons to Cycle Gear and Motorcycles Unlimited at the end of class to help with your gear.

Challen
Lead Instructor
www.awesomecycles.com

If you have any other questions or need more info, feel free to email me at davidyeater@houston.rr.com

 

[Jack Giesecke]

Oh, and yes, the front does seem very soft/easy to compress.... Where would I get springs??

Here ya go....
Sonic Springs

Can you explain the differences:

EX/Ninja 500 - 0.85kg/mm Sonic Springs $79.95
EX/Ninja 500 - 0.90kg/mm Sonic Springs $79.95
EX/Ninja 500 - 0.95kg/mm Sonic Springs $79.95
EX/Ninja 500 - 1.00kg/mm Sonic Springs $79.95

I assume since I am a heavy rider the higher spring number would be better?

Thanks for putting up with my n00b-ness. Heh. This sucks. Just as I get pretty decently good w/ car mechanicals and know the LT1 engine pretty good, now I start over. heh.

-Michael

Go to the race tech web site http://www.racetech.com/ and find the spring caculator and plug in the numbers it askes you for. This is quite a handy online suspension tool! Then, google "suspension sag". There's a gazillion sites that explain how to set your suspension sag. Bare in mind with these instructions that some of them are race oriented. I like my street bikes to have a little more sag than I would on the track. Most sites will explain this and when you order race tech springs, the instructions with them explain this. 30mm, even up to 35mm sag isn't excessive on a street bike. For one that I'm going to be putting through corners at a brisk pace, 30mm sag with rider seems about right for me. In racing, you're pushing the bike a lot harder and the springs will have to be set up stiffer to handle the load. On the street with street tires, you want more sag, more compliance.

Read up on it. It ain't rocket science dispite what some suspension "gurus" would have you believe. Getting your damping settings right on the track, that can be confusing and takes experience. But setting sag on a street bike is straight forward. Anyone that can pull a fork cap and cut a spacer to length can do it and proper sag settings will make the bike handle a lot better.

 

[xtalman]

Hey Michael,

For my GS500, my springs were Progressive, and I got 'em new off ebay. One other thing I replaced was my rear shock. I got one off of ebay for a Katana 750 that was stiffer and had more adjustability. You can probably do something similar for the Ninja 500. The stock rear shock sagged too much with me on it. The replacement shock raised the rear about an inch, which I liked better.

Another thing I was worried about when I bought the GS500 was rust in the fuel tank. Now might be a good time to look, and get it coated if there is any. Also, you might want to check the condition of the hoses while you're waiting for your MSF course.

 

[grendal]

Hey Michael,

For my GS500, my springs were Progressive, and I got 'em new off ebay. One other thing I replaced was my rear shock. I got one off of ebay for a Katana 750 that was stiffer and had more adjustability. You can probably do something similar for the Ninja 500. The stock rear shock sagged too much with me on it. The replacement shock raised the rear about an inch, which I liked better.

Another thing I was worried about when I bought the GS500 was rust in the fuel tank. Now might be a good time to look, and get it coated if there is any. Also, you might want to check the condition of the hoses while you're waiting for your MSF course.

Hoses and such are all good. Fresh tune-up, fresh oil change, new chain/sprocket, new rear tire, etc.

The gas tank does have some rust in it. What do I do about that exactly?.... Someone was saying POR15 makes a product for gas tanks?

-Michael

 

[xtalman]

Hoses and such are all good. Fresh tune-up, fresh oil change, new chain/sprocket, new rear tire, etc.

The gas tank does have some rust in it. What do I do about that exactly?.... Someone was saying POR15 makes a product for gas tanks?

-Michael

I've heard good things about POR15. Also Kreem. I've got a spare tank I've been meaning to get coated. Some people take their tank off and bring it to a radiator shop to get sealed. You might also look into adding an inline fuel filter. If the rust is flaking off you might want to clean your carbs too.