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Low Water Crossings?

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Enfield

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I'm a new rider and have been watching a bunch of videos on technique to try and fill my knowledge gaps. One I haven't been able to find is the best approach for riding across these slick bridges. I've seen plenty of videos of riders wiping out, so I know it's tricky. My gut tells me that you need to approach on the upstream side to allow for drift. What other tips can y'all share?

Thanks
 
If the current is an issue, I might turn around, I'm too old to ride around with a wet butt. The algae is always worse on the shallower line. Try not to ride the center between the tire tracks, stay in the line of the four wheelers tires. Feather the clutch, give it just enough to keep moving, coasting is best. Good luck!
 
JT said:
If the current is an issue, I might turn around, I'm too old to ride around with a wet butt. The algae is always worse on the shallower line. Try not to ride the center between the tire tracks, stay in the line of the four wheelers tires. Feather the clutch, give it just enough to keep moving, coasting is best. Good luck!
Click to expand...

And hold your breath and don’t sneeze or cough
 
I was thinking that running in a higher gear and avoiding clutch to ensure smooth steady power to the wheel was the ticket. I'll have to keep at my clutch work skills, they are lacking...
 
For the concrete crossings covered with algae, just assume everyone has a high butt pucker factor on these river crossing. Keep your wheels under you. Roll through in 2nd gear and don't give any throttle. I went down on the 2nd algae covered crossing and it happened quick!! While I was embarrassed and half of me was wet, not a big deal.

For the rocky river crossings, stay loose and don't panic if your front wheel gets pushed to one side or the other of your intended path. Also, I am not afraid to goose the throttle on these crossing. It keeps you going and is a lot of fun! You may not look very graceful, but the goal is to make it across.

For all of them, don't just plunge into the water without having a plan. Scout out the crossing or watch the riders in front of you. River crossings make the best ride clips, riding on pavement and gravel is usually boring.

Of course, my advice is based on my experience and skill. Good luck figuring it out for yourself.
 
I've had very little practice at it but what I do know, no or very little throttle is best and steady as she goes! lol
 
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Even the tiniest amount of engine braking or acceleration will break the rear end loose. That's why I say to feather the clutch, coast as much as you can and if you have to add thrust, just feather it lightly.
 
At last week's Hill Country 500, I tried to get my fellow riders interested in synchronized two-wheel aquatic ballet.

The conditions were perfect - recent rains, briskly flowing water, an undisturbed coating of fish snot on every crossing, and plenty of onlookers ... but to no avail.

I learned that this lot prefers a solo display to get the best effect of splashing water, scraping metal, and the obligatory teeth-sucking at 120 decibels.

I must say the performances were quite amazing. From a simple, perfectly-executed cranial crunch to a wildly impressive double-end swap with a double inside-out tuck and roll. Inspiring.

Techniques were discussed afterwards and generally agreed upon:
1. aim for the 4-wheel line with the most water, eyes straight ahead, lightly gripping the bars with one's weight slightly aft of center.
2. with minimal throttle input and delicate clutch feathering, tense up rapidly as the flowing water and fish snot conspire to move you away from your chosen line
3. ensure you've created adequate intestinal suction to draw inward at least two inches of seat cover [this may be challenging as the required space may be limited by other materials attempting to make rapid egress].
4. once one's performance begins, it is imperative to make dramatic eye contact with anyone on the far side of the crossing
5. draw in double one's normal lung capacity through lightly clenched teeth at roughly Mach 1.3
6. then, as your fall begins, emulate the rutting call of a bull walrus
6. while simultaneously pleading to God above for the cessation of gravity.

It's really quite simple and for some, myself included, a natural talent.

You'll pick this up in no time. Just practice.

esther-williams-sitting-above-swimmers-bettmann.jpg
 
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If a low water xing is concrete, it’ll be slick. The stable surface allows more algae to grow (vs a rock or gravel bottom).

Also, shallow water allows more sunlight to reach the bottom, encouraging more algae growth.

On approach to a shallow, concrete crossing, you’ll notice the black tracks of 4 wheeled vehicles. Although the dark color shouts “slick here!”, that is where you want to be, in one of the tracks. Not in the middle. Not off to the side.

Before entering the water, establish a slow, STEADY speed. I prefer a steady speed, feathering the clutch, but not pulling it all the way in.

As long as your tires are in water, you want to maintain the same speed. Hold the bars steady. Keep head up, with eyes trained on your exit point. Stay steady and straight until your rear tire is out of the water.
 
Whatever works. I’m slow and steady. However, one guy that I ride with swears that momentum is the secret. He tends to wheelie up heading in to avoid the big front end wave and generally just gasses in on through. Then, his riding skills and experience are incredible.
 
Unless you are alone... don't go first ;-)

Having led a LOT of rides over the years, I can tell you that NOT being first is quite refreshing :lol2:

You can do everything right, and still go down. That's just adventure life :zen: It takes very little side pressure on a tire to have it slide right out from under you on some of those crossings. I once SLOWLY rolled into about 1-1/2" to 2" of water that was moving moderately fast over smooth concrete. The front was barely in the water a second before the bike was going down. It took two of us to lift the bike because our feet were sliding around so bad. Even once upright, we and the bike were all sliding toward the down stream drop off... :eek2: Fortunately, it was only about 20 feet across and we were able to do the flat foot boogie to get the bike to the other side while slipping the clutch under power. It was constantly trying to slide out.

If you just HAVE to cross, I would walk it first if there is any doubt. If you have trouble walking it, I would not venture in with the bike as it will be even harder to walk it while trying to hold the bike upright. This can be the case even with two or three other riders trying to help you keep it upright!

I'll take a dirt/rocky bottom crossing over slick concrete all the time :thumb: Which by the way is exactly what I have seen some riders do after watching multiple other riders go down on the concrete. They explored up and down stream just a bit to find a better place to cross. You just have to be sure you can get in/out of the water at the banks and also be able to get back to the road from where you exit the water. Also, be careful doing that as you may actually be trespassing once you leave the road.
 
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Me, I avoid cement water crossings like the plague. I've fallen while walking across. But full disclosure: I'm not a very adventurous rider; I'm a chicken, and proud of it. 🐣 That said, I do admire people who explore the more adventurous side of motorcycling.

JT said:
Feather the clutch, give it just enough to keep moving, coasting is best. Good luck!
Click to expand...

This is a critical skill in many low-speed and/or low-traction maneuvers. I don't do water, but I've found myself on many a Colorado hairpin so sharp that 10mph was as fast as the bike could safely go, but so slow that I was barely maintaining balance. This is one of many instances when you get through the situation with very slow, very steady speed, never shifting and always gently feathering the clutch to maintain that perfect speed.

It's an easy skill to work on. Find yourself an empty parking lot and practice your clutch skills while turning a few concentric circles.

SpiritAtBay said:
As long as your tires are in water, you want to maintain the same speed. Hold the bars steady. Keep head up, with eyes trained on your exit point. Stay steady and straight until your rear tire is out of the water.
Click to expand...

Note what Gina said about where your eyes are. One of the most basic rules of motorcycling (and one you don't want to learn the hard way) is look where you want to go; don't look where you don't want to go.
 
Some great ideas here. My main tricks are: maintain perfect 90 degrees to the surface plane, same as riding on snow or ice. A few degrees of angle will send you instantly down on algae or ice. Then, if you break traction you are now instantly going down. Go slow but with enough momentum to keep moving if you hit a rock or hole and need to get over/through it. I use enough rpm to keep me moving if I need to hit gas but not where I have enormous torque on tap should I accidentally grab a handful. You won't have the traction to put it to the ground, if its a real slimy Texas crossing. Going fast will almost always get you in trouble. Remember Ecc 9:11 skills are not a guarantee but they sure help, but ultimately "time and chance happen to them all" .
 
I used to have some hip waders that had felt soles. The felt gripped very well on the algae covered rocks. So, using this tidbit of knowledge, I cut some felt strips that would be zip tied around the tires to use at the slick crossings. The problem is, I never got a chance to use them, so I don't know if that is a sound idea.

Has anyone ever tried that?
 
Slow Ride said:
I used to have some hip waders that had felt soles. The felt gripped very well on the algae covered rocks. So, using this tidbit of knowledge, I cut some felt strips that would be zip tied around the tires to use at the slick crossings. The problem is, I never got a chance to use them, so I don't know if that is a sound idea.

Has anyone ever tried that?
Click to expand...
Never thought of felt, but it does stick to fish snot.

I read a story moons ago about a guy that used the male side of velcro to make 'chains' for his bicycle on an icy/snowy ride somewhere in the Nordics. It got him to his destination.

So, I'm guessing the concept is fine, but I'd have to think the weight and power of an ADV would shred the felt/velcro in pretty short order.

After my recent aquatic adventures on the HC500, I wondered why someone doesn't leave a stiff-bristle push broom by the crossings. I'd rather 'sweep' a path and get wet feet than get wet everything else. Just a thought.
 
k-dubya said:
I read a story moons ago about a guy that used the male side of velcro to make 'chains' for his bicycle on an icy/snowy ride somewhere in the Nordics. It got him to his destination.
Click to expand...

Quite a few years ago, I was a bit nervous when heading to North Padre Island in my Jeep. Although I'd been downbeach several times before, I'd seen some people stuck on my last trip & it unnerved me a bit.

So I cut some wooden dowels, notched at each end. The theory was that if I got stuck on one of the sandy stretches, I could use a short length of rope, passed through the slots in the wheels, to tie the dowels to the tires to make paddles. Typically at PI, those tricky sandy stretches only last for 50 yards or so, then you're back on reasonably firm sand. As it turned out, my chunky tires and the Jeep's AWD did fine &, as in the past, I was able to simply power my way through the deep sand with a bit of slipping and sliding. So I never got to test my paddles - thank goodness!
 
All the rocky mountain water crossings back home in CO did not this problem but we ran into it in utah occasionally. I justrode like an old man at that point and was usuay sucessful. Itwas nearky the same as ice riding. Ill try and find the like on ADV of our wi ter moto chain contest. You had to make your own chains for the event.
 
My first hill country ride over 20 years ago I was going west on fm 1888 toward Lukenbach , there had been some heavy rain the day before , i Had seen watch for high water signs so slowed down at the first few low bridges I crossed and they were dry so running 70 or so I topped a hill with another low bridge at the bottom , a couple hundred feet from the bottom I realize there water across the road 25 feet wide , hit brakes and steer toward the shallow spot then I hit wet pavement tracked out by cars and had to get off the brakes around 45 or so . I hit it well over 30 mph . Maybe 6 inches deep at the deepest part . Normally a dry crossing so no slime and chip rock so good traction . That’s one time I’m glad I was on a 800 pound bike and nobody was coming down the road to meet me .

another really good one was one of the Devils river crossing north of Comstock , a hundred yard wide plus crossing that got water over the tops of my boots , riding my first Cagiva when it was new , water over a foot deep when I realized I had to dodge big boulders scattered around on the road . At least the water was clear so I could see them . Had to ride up and down the road on the other side and dry out the clutch on my bike before I could stop to take a picture of it . Forgot to add , I had gone around barricades several miles back from there . I needed to get down that road , I was headed to Big Bend .
 
k-dubya said:
Never thought of felt, but it does stick to fish snot.

I read a story moons ago about a guy that used the male side of velcro to make 'chains' for his bicycle on an icy/snowy ride somewhere in the Nordics. It got him to his destination.

So, I'm guessing the concept is fine, but I'd have to think the weight and power of an ADV would shred the felt/velcro in pretty short order.

After my recent aquatic adventures on the HC500, I wondered why someone doesn't leave a stiff-bristle push broom by the crossings. I'd rather 'sweep' a path and get wet feet than get wet everything else. Just a thought.
Click to expand...
I've wondered the same!
 
Hit even a few inches of water at any serious speed and it can take your feet off the pegs and right out from under you in a heart beat... Then you are just hanging on for dear life. DAMHIK :wary:
 
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