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Modifying MX Hauler

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Monica

Monica

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I'd like to modify my MX Hauler. The upper seat has these side ears that contact the bottle jack body when the hauler is at lowest setting/load height...ie the jack is at full compression. This forces the jack to fall over out the backside. Eseentially the jack don't fit. This knocks the jack out from under the upper arm. If I stand the jack back up to start lifting the loaded bike, it makes the bottle jack ram apply pressure at an angle. This edges the ram seat closer and closer to the lip of the arm with each pump. I am concerned the ram will slip out and the bike will crash down.

I'd like to do 2 things, the first at absolute minimum to solve the clearance/angle issue. The second as a precaution that the jack ram stays under the arm under lifting load.

1. Trim out the metal just enough to clearance the bottle jack. This will let the jack sit straight up and down at full compression (ie..the hauler at lowest height for un/loading)

2. Weld on a cap on the end of the arm to keep the ram captured

First though, does anyone see a structural issue if I clearance the upper seat? I kinda scribed a line there you can kinda see where I'd cut either w a hole saw or cut off tool (if the shape of the cut matters for strength??)


I have pics...going to try an upload from phone.
 

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Does the end of the ram on your jack unscrew? Some do and if it does you might could extend it so the jack would fit better.
 
It does. However doing so would not allow the hauler to drop all the way down for loading.
 
Yes. It's a new replacement, same pn as what comes new. Same dimensions, same capacity, same color, same markings.
 
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If you trim the side it will weaken it. How much? I’d say not enough to matter for your bike. If you feel it weakens it too much or witness it bending you can always take some metal and flare it out around the jack body and still have the reinforcement the current gusset is providing.
 
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There appear to be so many things wrong about this, I can hardly believe it.
But nonetheless, if you are set on clearancing the 'seat' to eliminate interference, It looks to me only a small amount if interference exists based on the scratch/witness mark on the bottle jack. In which case, removing the minimum amount of material might be adequate to keep the jack aligned. Instead of the straight line scribed, a curved line might achieve the desired result. Try a die grinder with a stone rather than a saw or cutoff wheel. Slower, but gives you more control of the surgery.

However, let me ask; if the top of the jack ram is unscrewed out a few turns to get it to sit straight, can you roll the bike onto a 2x6 board to get it high enough to load?
 
Dave, elaborate, please on everything wrong with this. It's why I asked. This is a flaw from the manf. Not one I created. I'm trying to straighten it out before it causes a problem.

As it sits I'm accounting for a 7" distance between engine cradle (13") and mx hauler (20"). The idea is to not use a ramp which is tricky, I'm loading a bike with one hand. I'm not griping about the height (at this point but man it's close lol), I'm griping about the bottle jack being forced to work in a way that bottle jacks are not suppose to be used (at an angle) due to a slight design/clearance issue. It IS a safety issue. Either the ram slips off the seat or the seal on the jack blows out, mid lift - both would be bad. I have considered losing the bottle jack and using a scissor jack on there - no idea if that would work. Throwing mud at the wall. Or getting an 8" adapter drop and losing my ground clearance (I'm not totally sold on those for the leverage it would have under load). But I'm just going through the options. Point of all this is it needs to be safe, and it needs to function properly. Fact is this hauler allows me to load the bike alone, one handed, so I'm going to stick with it and address this issue.

So far the couple times I've loaded the bike up I've had to be very cognizant of that bottle jack starting a lift at an angle. I'd had to put a boot on it an apply pressure to force it to be as straight as possible during lifting. It makes me nervous. Aside from that, there's no issue. I"m trying to avoid this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hi...-carrier-ultimate-mx-hauler-dirt-bike.222497/ My hauler doesn't have that little cap under there, mine's a bare edge.

I was thinking of, if I clearance those ears I might cap the entire top using a C-Channel or square tubing with only 3 sides - kind of like big spoon over the little spoon. Similar to how tow hitch receivers have the larger collar around. If the existing square tube was a hair bigger, enough to fit around the body of the bottle jack, there'd be no issue. The I.D. od the square tubing used for the top piece is 1.5". The body of the bottle jack is 2.025". So, square tube with an I.D. of 2 would work just fine, which would perfectly cap that 2" O.D. seat.
 
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My MX hauler is an older version and the bottle jack will fall out of place when at the lowest level. Newer models have a bar and clamp that holds the jack in place when there is no pressure on it. You may want to look into that option. As for the jack contacting the hitch, is that the original jack? It looks like there is only a little metal contacting the jack. I'd just file off a little and give it no more thought.
 
Monica said:
Dave, elaborate, please on everything wrong with this. It's why I asked. This is a flaw from the manf. Not one I created. I'm trying to straighten it out before it causes a problem.
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Click to expand...

That's exactly what I am saying. This is a poor design from the get-go. I would seek an alternative model from another manufacturer that meets your needs before attempting any mods to make this thing work. (Of course, I don't fully know your situation and you may be in a position where it's this hauler or none so you have to make it work.)

I fully agree this is a safety issue. A poor design at best. If you are attemting to use it within its designed range of operation with the original configuration and there is a great risk of the jack popping out and dropping the bike, I might even say this thing ought to be reported to the CPSC and recalled.

And I wasn't suggesting using a ramp to load. I was trying to suggest rolling the bike onto a 2x6 laying flat on the ground to raise the bike up a bit. You mention in post#3 that unscrewing the top of the ram to help it sit right in the lift would not allow the lift to drop down far enough to load the bike, so my suggestion was to raise the bike to meet the lift at its lowest position.
 
You own it, so Id be doing the same thing, Mod to make work.
Its a bit hard to comment on design based on words and a few pics.

But there are several folks on this forum myself included that have the tools, equipment and likely materials laying around that would be happy to help in person..

Im not comfortable making Internet suggestions on clearancing this, welding or extending that for something that if it critically fails, may lead to a bike in the middle of a traffic lane..
That said, if it was in front of me, Id have no problem giving all the free advice and non certified welding help you can handle. :giveup:
 
Be aware, your bike is very vulnerable on this device. If you go through any kind of ditch or up a steep driveway or such your tires can catch the ground and hurt your bike/forks or carrier. Be careful. With a traditional carrier the carrier base/rail just slides on the ground and the tires don't catch. I never liked this design for that reason. Just FYI. Not saying its a bad carrier it just scares me every time I see one. If you think im wrong simply disregard.
 
I hoped there might be some metal fab or welders on the board who could mathemetize this idea for me on a technical level. I'll post this elsewhere and see if I can get feedback on cropping those ears to clearance.

Dave, appreciate the thoughts. I understand your perspective, not liking the design. I wasn't really on board at first when I was reviewing the hitch hauling options. So I understand your reservations. Thank you.

EMarquez, I respect that 100%. Liability is a big word in my real life, I get it lol

Jeepman, I like this thing. I was skeptical at first though, prior to purchasing. The footpegs are secure. And I use a tie down for the handlebar for now. I'm still experimenting with the tie points so it doesn't rock. Drove around the other day with the bike loaded and I was nervous. I am for anything I'm loaded or towing for the first time. I haul fairly regularly a 13.5' kayak using a tow hitch extender. First couple times my eyeballs were glued to the rearview mirror. Now I'm comfortable with it that I forget it's back there. I guess it'll be the same with the bike. Will just take time to get used to it. I like though how people didn't tailgate me and very quickly went around :lol2:

I get what you mean about being aware of departure angles. The truck is tall, a 4wd 2500. The bottom of the tow hitch is 20" off the ground. I've got a steep intersection my neighborhood that is a bit of a test.


Lowered for loading, 6* driveway slope , truck parked at the lowest to get the ail down
attachment.jpg



MX Hauler raised for hauling
attachment.jpg
 
Monica there used to be a ring that kept the ram on the jack in place but it was just tack welded on and fell off shortly after I started using it. I always had the ram unscrewed 3 full turns when I used if for my Husaberg and my KTM but I understand those bikes significantly taller. Once the bike was fully lifted, the jack often times would slide forward but I used large zip ties to keep if from flailing around. Never bothered me much but you have a different set of circumstances.
 
Monica said:
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EMarquez, I respect that 100%. Liability is a big word in my real life, I get it lol
Click to expand...

I think you misunderstood ...Its not liability , its "seeing" the issue, all of it, via an Internet forum, and then communicating the suggested fix.

If the issue is just the webbing of that boxed section interfering with the body of the jack..and then reinforcing that arm once material is removed for clearance.

Then Yes Id clearance the arm webbing, then box in the lead end to "contain" the top of the ram.
I would weld two triangle sections to the top of that arm to resist flex along that axis, and than weld a web to the exterior of the arm on both sides, boxing it in back toward the pivot point..

Now, I have no idea if you are reading that as I intended, and what I would do if it was sitting in my shop...and that was the issue I was trying to convey.
 
Steve, my bike has the same dream as me, "I wish I were taller" :lol2:

EMarquez, uh ok, I see what you're saying. Also your description appears to understand exactly the modification I was considering for what the issue is.
 
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Jeepman said:
Be aware, your bike is very vulnerable on this device. If you go through any kind of ditch or up a steep driveway or such your tires can catch the ground and hurt your bike/forks or carrier. Be careful. With a traditional carrier the carrier base/rail just slides on the ground and the tires don't catch. I never liked this design for that reason. Just FYI. Not saying its a bad carrier it just scares me every time I see one. If you think im wrong simply disregard.
Click to expand...

This times 72. No way I would use this type carrier.
 
Meriden said:
Me neither. My experience is that the bottom of the hitch will drag before any part of the bike.

Steve, it that the original jack?

mike
Click to expand...

When I sold it to Monica it had the original jack on it but she changed it out with a new jack with the exact same specs.
 
I would weld a 3/4 or 5/8 nut to top of jack, then drill hole in rack and screw in a 1 to 1 1/2 " bolt with washers. Or a pin welded with tractor locking clip pin through hole.. Just my thoughts, I like the rack an want to get one.
 
There is a ring missing from the top plate. The ring captures the jack ram and keeps the jack from sliding around. The top of the jack ram does need to be screwed out a few turns to fit up into the ring.
 
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