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Zoom Lens Rental

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Brotha J

Brotha J

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Brotha
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Attention you camera geeks! ;-)

Gymnastics season is upon us and this year Jamy a level 6 senior. This means we're at the point of being true professional gymnast parents. AND, of course this means that Jamy's Dad "needs" to look into investing fake money (i.e. credit card) into a real zoom lens.

So, I'm looking for a place near Rockwall (DFW) that rents lenses so that I can play around to see what works best for our budget and photo needs. Any good places to rent in this area?

Another AND, yes I'm not so lazy that I'm only asking y'all. I'm doing some Interwebs reasearchings. :nana:
 
For brick and mortar stores you have Competitive Camera and Arlington Camera.
 
First of all, congratulations to your daughter and, of course, her parents. Takes a lot of drive and determination to get to her level. May she fly high and go far.

I thought you might like to consider an alternative in lenses. I have found that I only use my long zooms at maximum reach. So, that 70-200 pretty much always shoots at 200. For a walking around lens, I like the zooms, but you might find you can get a much better lens, for less money by going to a prime lens. Might think about it once you start renting, see just how critical the zoom function is.
 
Due to the "creativity" that gyms have in creating seating for the gymnastic competitions, a zoom lens is a must. :trust:
 
B&H Photo and Adorama (both online) have extensive lines of used equipment. I have never bought a lens that wasn't better than described. The best part, other than the savings over new, free shipping and no sales tax is their 30-day return policy. They are both Jewish owned businesses and close Friday afternoon through Monday, so that takes a little getting used to.
 
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:tab The 55-300mm is no longer getting it done?

:tab I suspect that lighting conditions for most of your events aren't the best so you are having to run wide open on the aperture and at relatively high ISO to get a decent shutter speed with that 55-300mm. That is where having the ability to go to F/2.8 really helps. A body that handles high ISO also makes a big difference.

:tab IF you want a zoom with F/2.8 through the range, prepare do spend a LOT of that fake money unless you buy used. That said, Nikon still sells their 80-200 F/2.8 new and occasionally you can find a refurbed unit on the Nikon site. I have used it and it takes great pictures. It is significantly cheaper than the newer 70-200 F/2.8 which I now have. I don't think it has any kind of VR though. It is also much heavier than the 70-200.

AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II - $1,999.96

AF-S NIKKOR 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6 G ED VR - $1,899.95

AF-S NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR - $1,249.96

:tab If money is no object...

AF-S NIKKOR 200-400mm f/4G ED VR II - $5,499.96

AF-S NIKKOR 300mm F2.8G ED VR II - $4,999.96

:tab You can see everything here. Inventory changes frequently so check back often.
 
You're spot on about lighting and wide open at high ISO, Tourmeister. I've been doing better over the years, though. I've been able to get some good shots; some even better than their photographers. BUT, it would be nice to get closer and crispier (crisper) shots.

So, if I am able to upgrade, with my current camera, me thinks that going with a 50-70/400-500 would be the ticket.

Also, I wonder if they make a holster for quick lens changes; sort of like wild west style.
 
What about either of these two:
Tamron 150-600mm f/5-6.3
Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6E VR

B&H has both of them.
 
Brotha J said:
What about either of these two:
Tamron 150-600mm f/5-6.3
Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6E VR

B&H has both of them.
Click to expand...

What lens are you using right now (and camera while we are at it)? If you are using something in the 5.6-6.3 realm right now, then neither one of the two lenses you brought up will gain you much of anything other than vibration reduction and maybe a little more reach than you have now.

And as to a quick change.... not going to happen. That's why you see guys with two cameras draped around their necks in the sporting world.

The biggest question is what exactly do you not like with the photos that you are currently taking? Can you not hold the thing steady enough to get a sharp photo in the lighting conditions? Are you getting motion blur when you don't want motion blur? Are you just not able to get a tight enough framing for your shot?

I have a sneaking suspicion that the answer is going to end up being that you need a lens that can open up to f2.8, but we shall see. Oh, and if you are going to spend over a grand on a lens then you might as well go all in and get an f2.8 anyway and be done with it.
 
Budget is the issue. I'm not at home so I cain't give no details. I've been taking "good enough" pics with the equipment that I have. I just need to get closer.

I'm looking in the B&H used section and have picked a few that meet distance and budget:

1. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...27306_zoom_telephoto_135_400mm_f_4_5_5_6.html

2. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/801281232-USE/sigma_736306_50_500mm_f_4_6_3_ex_dg.html

3. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/801392404-USE/nikon_1996_af_vr_zoom_nikkor_80_400mm.html


What say y'all?
 
:tab If you plan to buy a lens, I would really recommend the 70-200mm F/2.8 VRII. If you use that with a crop sensor body (aren't you using a D5300?), you will get the equivalent of a 105-300mm zoom at F/2.8. The VR won't help with stopping motion of the subject, but it will help with focus blur from you moving while zoomed way in on the subject. Remember, a long zoom tends to make blur from you moving the lens worse, so the VR helps there.

:tab Now that I think about it, I don't think the older Nikon 80-200mm F/2.8 will work with your body because it requires a focus motor in the camera body. I don't think the D5300 has that, but something like the D7200 does. The 7200 also has better high ISO performance and can shoot 6 fps vs 5 fps. It has better battery life. It is also heavier.

:tab I suspect that at the distances you are likely shooting from, your subject is a small part of the overall image. With most new bodies, you have high enough resolution that you can still crop the image down so that your subject fills more of the image without too much loss in quality (unless you plan to make big prints). I believe the D5300 has the 24 Mp sensor, same as the 7200? For 8 X 10 and smaller, you're likely going to be fine unless you go crazy with cropping or if your ISO starts going really high (3200-6400 most likely on your body). This is where a high end body really makes a big difference, the ability to get really high resolution and to handle 6400+ ISO settings.

:tab I would guess that you need to keep your shutter speed around 1/500 or faster most of the time to have any hope of freezing the action for gymnastics unless you time your shots really well for those moments when motion of the person is minimized. If you are shooting at F/5.6, then that means you are really cranking up the ISO unless the places is REALLY well lit. Also, at the distances you are probably shooting, a flash would do little good even if they are allowed. So your only options are to get a "faster" lens and/or a body that can do better high ISO shots.

:tab If you do get the 70-200, you can also get a teleconverter later for even more reach. A 1.4 would take you out to an equivalent of 420mm but I think you lose at least a full stop on the aperture, so your fastest stop would be F/4.0, which is still better than what you have now.

Nikon AF-S FX TC-14E III (1.4x) Teleconverter Lens with Auto Focus for Nikon DSLR Cameras
 
Brotha J said:
Budget is the issue. I'm not at home so I cain't give no details. I've been taking "good enough" pics with the equipment that I have. I just need to get closer.

I'm looking in the B&H used section and have picked a few that meet distance and budget:

1. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...27306_zoom_telephoto_135_400mm_f_4_5_5_6.html

2. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/801281232-USE/sigma_736306_50_500mm_f_4_6_3_ex_dg.html

3. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/801392404-USE/nikon_1996_af_vr_zoom_nikkor_80_400mm.html


What say y'all?
Click to expand...

:tab Those would be more budget friendly than the 70-200, even if you found one used. That said, you still have the issue of F/5.6 or higher at full zoom. But, if you are happy with the quality you have been getting with F/5.6 at the shutter speeds and ISO settings you've been using, then the Sigma 50-500 might be good, but I know nothing about the lens beyond the numbers on it.

:tab As for the two 400mm's, I'd opt for the Nikon version just because :-P Seriously though, it has the VR, which as I pointed out in the previous post helps with image blur at long focal lengths from shaking. It doesn't look like either Sigma has it.
 
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Bottom line, you need to get light to the sensor and in a sport/action shot, you need to get it there in a relatively short shutter speed. F/2.8 would be my first priority, then lens length. A crisp shot shot at 120mm can be cropped. A fuzzy shot at 200mm will always be fuzzy.
 
side note: I think you need to update your profile pic. :mrgreen:
 
Tracker said:
Bottom line, you need to get light to the sensor and in a sport/action shot, you need to get it there in a relatively short shutter speed. F/2.8 would be my first priority, then lens length. A crisp shot shot at 120mm can be cropped. A fuzzy shot at 200mm will always be fuzzy.
Click to expand...

Nicely stated!

Rusty, That lens holder thingy is cool! I'd have to use the strap though. The 70-200 would pull my pants down :huh2:
 
You can use one of their straps with it. And my 70-200mm is the reason I got one. With cargo shorts or pants I can put most of my other lenses in the big pockets. The 70-200 I end up holding. This was a real pain shooting the Team RWB Tri camp with Scott and Duke.
 
Gary is spot on...

The 70-200 f/2.8 is my workhorse. Tens of thousands of sports specific images shot professionally with it. The reality is, your f/5.6 is a full two stops slower than that f/2.8. You can look at it in a number of ways to include:

If you're shooting a 250th of a second shutter now, the f/2.8 will get you to 1/1000th assuming your ISO remains the same and you go from f/5.6 to f.2.8. (1/250th -> 1/500th -> 1/1000th)

That's huge, but you also might be paying a price for sky high ISO numbers. Let's say you're shooting at ISO 3200 currently with a given wide open f/5.6 aperture. Going from f/5.6 to f/2.8 again is two full stops of light which would allow you to go from 3200 to 800. (3200 -> 1600 -> 800)

If that's not enough to convince you, then look at increasing your shutter speed one stop and dropping your ISO one stop for a total two stops of light. In other words, with our example above you could go from your 1/250th sec to 1/500th while at the same time reducing your ISO from 3200 to 1600.

That 70-200 will never go out of style for performance and you'll have it for the day you do decide to upgrade the body. That will be your "wow" moment when that happens.

How about 'dem apples?


.
 
J, did you ever figure out what camera and lens you are currently shooting with?
 
:tab I am pretty sure he has a Nikon D5300. I sold him the Nikon 55-300mm a while back. I bought it from Tracker a few years back, but rarely used it since I used the 70-200 so much, for many of the reasons Scott just laid out above.
 
Sorry, y'all.

The Meister called it right I have the 5300. She is a great camera and a great upgrade from our D80. I hafta admit, that I've been so busy this school year doing all sorts of "important" paperwork, that I hven't been to hardly any practices to practice. So, my skills have deteriorated a bit.

AND

My car must have been jealous of all the attention I've been paying to the camera. She decided that SHE needed that $850 for her suspension! :angryfire

This lens thing is prolly out of the question now. I could still rent. But, if I ain't buying, I don't really see the big need to rent. I'm going to hafta do some serious practicing!

My main workhorse lenses are:
1) AF-S Nikkor 70-300 1:4.5-5.6G
2) AF-S Nikkor 55-200 1:4-5.6G ED

Both of these are VR. I usually shoot on Sport with a high ISO. I've tried all other modes and this mode seems to suit best. However, I'm willing to retry everything.

The real issues are composure and light.

With available seating and the equipment arrangement at the location, we can't be sure of optimal positioning for the events (beam, floor, vault, & bars). We try to choose an area where we can see at least on of them well.

The gym locations are not usually designed for crowds. Lighting seems to be a secondary thought. As long as the gymnasts can see well, they're okay. Our cameras aren't even an after thought.

Keep your advice coming, y'all.
 
Yeah, both lenses at 4-5.6 will make that tough regardless of how much you practice. They're just not good players in a darker environment with fast moving subjects.

Try this - use the "spot" metering function (the little black dot) instead of Matrix metering. And keep that dot ON your subjects chest. In simple terms - meter for your subject. But keep in mind all white outfits will probably make your shots dark. She's not wearing all white is she? :doh:

Then try the Average Weighting (the one between Matrix and Spot), again keeping the focus/metering point ON your subjects chest. That might buy you a little wiggle room.


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