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Project CB750C bobberratcafebike...

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gotdurt said:
Curious, could you see it in my post, or did you just happen upon the line in a quote?

Anyway, I was hoping that since I have the week off, and that since we're not leaving on or trip 'til tomorrow that I'd have time to take some more detailed photos and discuss my plans, but alas, my wife had other plans for me :doh:

I should be picking up the tank et al later this week.
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I saw a red x and being the nosey type I clicked quote and then copied and pasted the URL in a new window.
 
SRADkneedragger said:
OMG! thats what I want! Probably never happen just too many irons in the fire
SRAD
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:huh2: Uh... that's uh, not what I had in mind :-P Not the trike, anyway ;-)

el_chupo_ said:
After: (note the floorboards)
11836_177855176900_598311900_3419849_4665938_n.jpg
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I've thought about going the hard tail route, in fact I'm still thinking it, but I want it lower with the seat closer to the tire... However, I still want to be able to toss some bags on and head for AR or NM should I desire, so I'm thinking of making it convertible... I once saw an old Suzuki GS drag bike that replaced the rear shocks with shorter, rigid bolt-on bars. This way I could swap the shocks back on for longer rides.

bushwhacker said:
I saw a red x and being the nosey type I clicked quote and then copied and pasted the URL in a new window.
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Ah, ok, I'm not even seeing a red x, just nothing at all, as if there are only 3 bikes.
 
gotdurt said:
I've thought about going the hard tail route, in fact I'm still thinking it, but I want it lower with the seat closer to the tire... However, I still want to be able to toss some bags on and head for AR or NM should I desire, so I'm thinking of making it convertible... I once saw an old Suzuki GS drag bike that replaced the rear shocks with shorter, rigid bolt-on bars. This way I could swap the shocks back on for longer rides.
Click to expand...

That rigid bars gives all of the pain of hardtail with none of the looks. If you want something comfortable for long rides I would definitely go with a softail or "brat" bobber.
 
Seb656 said:
That rigid bars gives all of the pain of hardtail with none of the looks. If you want something comfortable for long rides I would definitely go with a softail or "brat" bobber.
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The idea is to tuck the rear wheel up into the fender with minimal clearance, and to get the belly as close to the ground as possible; this will have enough affect on the appearance... then have the ability to reverse it within minutes for long rides with full travel. As for looks, I'm not going for a chopper look, but more of a drag look, while remaining in the bounds of practicality.
 
gotdurt said:
The idea is to tuck the rear wheel up into the fender with minimal clearance, and to get the belly as close to the ground as possible; this will have enough affect on the appearance... then have the ability to reverse it within minutes for long rides with full travel. As for looks, I'm not going for a chopper look, but more of a drag look, while remaining in the bounds of practicality.
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Went to the Houston Autorama today, there was a bike there with rigid bars similar to what I'm talking about. His were billet though (get past the incredibly tacky paint job ;-))
DSC_8891.jpg


To my eye, they add to the tough, utilitarian, purpose-built machine look that I'm going for, rather than the typical swoopy-flowy chopper look that was rampant at the show. I'd rather have shortened shocks just for ride quality purposes, but that would cost too much right now.
 
gotdurt said:
I'd rather have shortened shocks just for ride quality purposes, but that would cost too much right now.
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A pretty common swap on XS650's (I dont know if they will fit the CB's) is a Honda Rebel shock. They are 10.5" eye-to-eye, if I remember correctly.

Plus, they go for about 25 bucks a pair on ebay when I looked at em.
 
Well, I now have the tank, key and title (or at least my dad does until he drops them by), but no seat... the owner couldn't find it :scratch: Not sure how you lose a big, blocky 1980 Honda seat, but okay. I planned to make my own anyway, was just hoping to base it on the stock pan.

It appears someone before me thought it would be a good idea to detail the bike with a wire brush, particularly on the motor... steel+alum=scratches :argh:... so I'll be doing some blasting. It's okay though, I planned on painting everything anyway, and blasted texture looks nice.

el_chupo_ said:
A pretty common swap on XS650's (I dont know if they will fit the CB's) is a Honda Rebel shock. They are 10.5" eye-to-eye, if I remember correctly.

Plus, they go for about 25 bucks a pair on ebay when I looked at em.
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I've heard that, but I'm skeptical about them on this bike, given the +/-150lb weight difference. I'll look into it a little more though, as well as other possibilities.
 
el_chupo: Do you happen know where the new buyer bought that fender and tank? That bike is just :drool: looking.

Also, has anyone had experience riding a hard tail similar to that one? How does it ride?
 
There's lots of stock Harley shocks floating around in the 10.5 inch range. Could probably be shimmed to fit if needed. Since they are Showa shocks, it wouldn't surprise me if they fit just fine as is.

Can't imagine they'd sell for much.
 
Captcha said:
el_chupo: Do you happen know where the new buyer bought that fender and tank? That bike is just :drool: looking.

Also, has anyone had experience riding a hard tail similar to that one? How does it ride?
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I do not know or know how to find out:giveup:. My dad was selling the bike on consignment at a local shop. The shop owner got the new pictures and forwarded them to my dad and myself.
 
Captcha said:
el_chupo: Do you happen know where the new buyer bought that fender and tank? That bike is just :drool: looking.

Also, has anyone had experience riding a hard tail similar to that one? How does it ride?
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you know the tank looks like an old sportster tank, something you can find in the JP cycles catalog.

And the rear fender looks kind of like a trailer fender :shrug:
 
Captcha
Back in 1980 I was running a set of "hard tail" struts (shocks blew out and no money) on my Harley and they will make you pee blood on a long trip. But people will notice you.

gotdurt
Have you given any thought to mounting the rear fender to the swing arm and run a couple of struts from the axle adjusters up to support the back end of it. That way the fender will ride real close to the tire but you can move it a bit as needed for chain wear. Mount a solo seat to the frame using a pivot block and a couple of rear springs to make the ride a bit easier. Use a "lick and stick" if you want to pack the ol'lady with you. Also you can shorten shocks by taking off the springs then cutting the shock rod where it joins the mounting ring, drill out the rod in the ring, slide the rod back into the ring and weld it up. You can cut off as much rod as you need but don't over do it. Re assemble the shocks and go for it.
Looks like a fun build ahead for you.
Tom
 
Pumper54 said:
Have you given any thought to mounting the rear fender to the swing arm and run a couple of struts from the axle adjusters up to support the back end of it. That way the fender will ride real close to the tire but you can move it a bit as needed for chain wear. Mount a solo seat to the frame using a pivot block and a couple of rear springs to make the ride a bit easier.
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Thanks for the suggestion... at first attaching the fender to the swingarm sounded like a good idea, but part of the look I'm going for is to have the seat close to the fender, fender close to the tire (See the examples on the 1st page...), which will also result in a nice, low belly (I'm thinking2-3" ground clearance).

Pumper54 said:
...you can shorten shocks by taking off the springs then cutting the shock rod where it joins the mounting ring, drill out the rod in the ring, slide the rod back into the ring and weld it up. You can cut off as much rod as you need but don't over do it. Re assemble the shocks and go for it.
Looks like a fun build ahead for you.
Tom
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I'm not entirely sure these shocks can be disassembled... if they can I definitely pull them apart and see what it will take to shorten them, but I'm not sure how useful they'll be; the shafts appear to be rusted pretty bad. Probably best to start over... however, it would be nice to know that I could shorten whatever I end up getting, if necessary.

Last weekend I took some detail photos of what I'm up against, I hope to get them posted during my vacation...
 
Stole this from the shovelheadUS site, gives more info on cutting the shocks down:

"I have had MUCH better results by shortening my own shocks 3/4". This is very easy too, if you have the ability to take the springs off the shock and do a teeny bit of welding. Here's how:

Take shocks apart...cut the top "eye" off from the shock rod...cut it off flush at the outside edge of the "eye".

Drill a hole in the shock eye, all the way through to the center, so it will slip back down on the rod.

Cut 1/2" off the end of the shock rod.

Some shocks have a rubber "snub" slipped over the rod, to keep the shock from fully bottoming out metal to metal...if your shock has this, use a bench grinder to shorten it 1/2" to 3/4"...it's hard rubber, it grinds easy.

Slip the eye back on the rod so the top of the rod is just below flush with the inside edge of the eye. Weld it from the inside of the eye. The eye material is approximately 1/4" thick...you cut 1/2" off the rod, then you inserted it 1/4" into the eye...total amount of shortening is 3/4"

Put the shock back together. Be aware that with that shorter rod, the springs will be stiffer...not a big deal, just leave the adjustment on the "softest" setting and it will be about the same as if they were on the "stiff" setting before.

Put 'em on and enjoy the ride. "

Ride safe
Tom
 
Okay, finally had some spare time, and now I'm motivated... tore into it this weekend to get a vignette of sorts, before tearing it down. I went ahead and whacked the seat brace and frame behind the shocks (the grinder in the background tells the story)... sorry for the camera phone pic, it was convenient...

picture.php


I'm about 85% settled on what I'll do with it... The form will be as you see here, except maybe 2" lower and it'll have a headlight :-P... although I haven't decided what kind yet. I'll be stripping down the frame to clean-up the welds some, so I decided to strip it all the way to the bare metal, treat it with Gibbs and clear coat it. The tank and rear fender will be flat black, although I'm debating on doing my signature flame job... Everything else will be painted either flat black or flat charcoal gray; no chrome or silver, save for the fork stanchions, pod filters and a few nuts and bolts. I'll make a fiberglass seat pan and have a seat made on that.
 
It lives!



Funny how the mic on the camera (cell phone) picks up the mechanical noise more than the deep tones... it actually sounds REALLY good... Wife even said so... from inside the house :~P Will need a valve adjustment, etc, but it starts and idles great as-is with good throttle response.
 
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Not much left of it now. Next I have to create some sort of stand so I can strip it down further.

318484_2376062113356_1004679130_2631771_1618999494_n.jpg


I'm debating trying to find a way to paint the motor and frame without removing the motor from the frame... the motor is a beast, and the manual recommends a min of 3 men to remove it :shock:After careful examination, it appears I could do it in sections by removing/replacing one mount at a time, along with careful masking. If I repaint the frame black, it would make it easier and a little more forgiving. I might just blast the block/head natural and keep it coated with Gibbs Brand, then just paint the the various covers black and dark grey.
 
gotdurt said:
Not much left of it now. Next I have to create some sort of stand so I can strip it down further.

318484_2376062113356_1004679130_2631771_1618999494_n.jpg


I'm debating trying to find a way to paint the motor and frame without removing the motor from the frame... the motor is a beast, and the manual recommends a min of 3 men to remove it :shock:After careful examination, it appears I could do it in sections by removing/replacing one mount at a time, along with careful masking. If I repaint the frame black, it would make it easier and a little more forgiving. I might just blast the block/head natural and keep it coated with Gibbs Brand, then just paint the the various covers black and dark grey.
Click to expand...

Get it down to a bare frame and remove the removable frame piece and lay the bike on it's side and remove the rest of the mounting bolts and pick the frame off the engine. Do the reverse after you have it painted.
 
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