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KLR650 Thread

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Gravel Guy said:
Michael, I think you need to rotate your crankshaft one full turn, ( manually) and all should be well.
👍🏻
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Yes I think Mark is correct and pull sparkplug out and put thumb there to feel compression stroke for top dead center . That's what I do to not get fooled.
 
Thank y'all, i believe i am just half a rotation off then. I have never been this deep in an engine and a little nervous to say the least. I used to pay a guy to do this but that was a long time ago and way cheaper then now. The local dealer wanted $450 for this job. Its a fun task with the help of my 13yr old son. We will mess with it tomorrow and do the measurements. Ill let you know how it goes.
thanks
 
Alright, so as y'all said. I was a half a turn off and everything was lined up as it should. We measured and we got the following values.

Intake tolerance 0.1-0.2mm
Intake R=0.2mm (no adjustment needed)
Intake L=0.23mm ( should I reduce down 0.03 to get in tolerance?)


Exhaust tolerance 0.15-0.25mm
Exhaust R=0.25mm (no adjustment needed?)
Exhaust L=0.18mm (I'll adjust this to top of tolerance?)

What's y'all's thoughts?
 
In spec except that one intake. What is the mileage on the bike? In the shop I would adjust the one intake, my one own would probably run it. Again mileage on the engine would be the determining factor
 
Remember, tolerances are a range for a reason. If the tolerance is 0.15-0.25mm and you measure at 0.25 and 0.18 then you are in tolerance. Sure if you just want to pull things apart go for it, but is it required, no.

Now your intake... not in tolerance so adjust that puppy. While you are in there if you want to take intake right to the same, that would be a good time to do it since you already have the cam out of it.
 
Mileage is 23K. Is it better to adjust to the middle of the tolerance or the top end?
Thanks for the advice yall.
 
ntklr650 said:
Mileage is 23K. Is it better to adjust to the middle of the tolerance or the top end?
Thanks for the advice yall.
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If I'm adjusting, I personally try to go as close to the middle of the range. If I remember right, most folks tend to agree that valves have a tendency to tighten over time, but I have seen them go both ways so I just aim for middle of the road.
 
ntklr650 said:
@Gravel Guy or anyone else who knows the KLR650
Needing some help on a valve adjustment. Looking at the service manual and watching Tim two wheels, I am seeing some items that don't make sense. At TDC, I have the T in the window but the CAM lobes are facing inwards and not outwords like the service manual says. The arrows on the timing chain are pointing backwards which is different than. Tim Two wheels shows. Help????
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What is the thing in picture 1 on the end of the right cam with the small spring? Is it auto compression release? No Ideal.
 
Windmill said:
What is the thing in picture 1 on the end of the right cam with the small spring? Is it auto compression release? No Ideal.
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Yes sir. That was a new one on me as well. I knew it had it but was not sure how this was achieved. I have definitely learned a lot through this process.
 
Alright y'all, we got the valves out finally and were able to see the backside.
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Let me know what y'all think on the new shim sizes. The only one I'm confused on is the left exhaust valve. Should I leave it at 0.18mm gap or move it up 0.05mm to 0.23mm. also, if I leave it at 2.40mm, should I reuse the original valve shim or buy a new one of the same size?

Next question, the valve cover was RTV'ed along with the o-ring gasket which is not correct. Should I replace the valve cover gasket or just clean it up? I'm thinking of ordering a new Tusk one regardless and see what looks better.
Thanks
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ntklr650, I see your post here was 9-19-22, but I'll throw this in if someone is considering your valve cover gasket question for future reference. The OEM rubber gasket uses no sealant as you surmised except for one place. It is recommended in those "half moon" cam cutouts for the gasket surface. It doesn't take much, but one should put a dab completely across that depression in all four cutouts. It's kind of a goldilocks amount, and it doesn't hurt to have just a tiny bit squeeze out so that you can see it. Just wipe off any excess. This is usually the most likely place for an annoying leak as it's the least precise interface between the rubber gasket and head surface.

Also, as long as it was silicone based sealant on the rubber gasket that you want to remove, some hand rubbing between your thumb and forefinger will work off the silicone without hurting the rubber gasket. Sometimes when needed I'll use a plastic pick or toothpick to get troublesome sealant out of the nooks and crannies of those half moon portions of the rubber...carefully. Most all other places can be rubbed off. This is an expensive gasket from the factory, and they nearly last forever if handled properly.
 
Hey, Howdy and Hello again. I've ordered a taller windshield for my 2022 and was considering getting a set of the brackets to change the angle of the windshield. Any input or links to brackets you use would be appreciated.
 
Bledsoe76 said:
Hey, Howdy and Hello again. I've ordered a taller windshield for my 2022 and was considering getting a set of the brackets to change the angle of the windshield. Any input or links to brackets you use would be appreciated.
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KLR Dash makes the best screen risers in the market IMO.
I had issues with the others. But once I got the KLR Dash risers with a Zero Gravity double bubble windscreen I could talk on the phone and hear my music clearer and had reduced fatigue from wind. Highly recommend them.
 

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I put the Vstream mid size on the early edition 3D cycle risers. Worked great until I was going 65mph against a 30 mph head wind. The risers broke and laid the windscreen down. 3D has updated the design but I have not used them. I am happy with the mid size screen set at the factory "high" position with no risers.
 
chiricahua said:
KLR Dash makes the best screen risers in the market IMO.
I had issues with the others. But once I got the KLR Dash risers with a Zero Gravity double bubble windscreen I could talk on the phone and hear my music clearer and had reduced fatigue from wind. Highly recommend them.
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Does KLR dash make Gen 3 specific risers or does the Gen 2 stuff work on the Gen 3? I used them on the Gen 2 and you are right, they are hard to beat. I don't see Gen 3 specific risers on the KLR dash website.
 
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Well after to many months. We finally cranked the KLR over last night and she started right up. Perfect idle. No stumble when I give it throttle. Need to adjust the idle speed a little bit I think we will be back on the road soon. Valve adjustment, carb cleaning and failure, carb cleaned in ultrasonic and rebuilt with a new kit and a few other odds and ends cleaned or added. Now I just need to get the inspection done and registration up to date.
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I have the 685 and it's a little smoother, but not much. Tiny bit more power, but not much. The real benefit is the fix for burning oil. I hated going on long trips and burning a 1/2 qt every couple hundred miles.
 
Yea, the 685 is on my list but I need a second one so I'm not down a bike for a few months or at my speed a whole year. I have a friend at work that just did his and I need to give it a try.
 
It doesn't need to be down that long. Buy a used cylinder on ebay or you can get one from Eagle Mike. He has some already machined and can send it with the piston. You can be up and running in a weekend. Then you can sell the old cylinder to the next lucky soul.
 
Spigatelli said:
It doesn't need to be down that long. Buy a used cylinder on ebay or you can get one from Eagle Mike. He has some already machined and can send it with the piston. You can be up and running in a weekend. Then you can sell the old cylinder to the next lucky soul.
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I like the idea of getting one completed by eagle Mike. I'll look into it. Thanks.
 
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