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Stories from Occupied New Mexico

I saw on the 10:00 news last night that the boat crossing into Boquillas is now open to US citizens. There is a computerized passport KIOSK before you cross with video camera's placed on it. If you need help or assistance, the park ranger shows up quickly in his car.

Can you enter Mexico proper this way or is it limited to just a few square miles around Boquillas?

Nevertheless, since the crossing was closed after 9/11, it is neat it is now open to the public.

RB

That's pretty much what the park's website said. As far as going deeper you would have to have all your entry papers in order. If you did that in Presidio or another crossing I don't see why not.
 
You can basically go within walking distance. A couple of locals that were there when we arrived had walked upstream to a place known as Ojo Caliente to soak in the hot springs in Mexico. It would be wise to go around with someone who has been there before as opposed to exploring on one's own I think. Knowing the language very well is advised too. We are still working on that one ourselves.
 
Stories from Occupied New Mexico, Part Duex

Back 'Home'. Where my heart is, but then my heart likes to travel, too.
:rider:

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The Whee-Strom took me for a long Birthday and Phoenix Rising Ride last month. It was fantastic! So good to be Home and life is good! But more on that later.

Looking forwards to seeing and visiting with the Desert Rats bunch on Christmas Day!!! Woohoo! :sun::sun:

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Birthday Phoenix Rising Ride

I was a bad girl and discovered riding curves with one hand on the bars and the other on the video/camera was fun. ;)

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Birthday Phoenix Rising Ride

What is it that draws us like a magnet, like a starving addict, to the road?
What ever it is, I don't want a 12-step recovery program. Like a tired body sinking into a pleasurable slumber, I succumb.
Take me.

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Two cafes; we've eaten at both and no intestinal issues. I recommend the Falcon's cafe. Their tacos are excellent, very reasonable priced, they have cold beer, and are wonderful folks.
Will be visiting again between Xmas and NY with some friends. Have heard things are coming along quite well there over the summer and fall this year.
Luckily, my companion speaks fluid Spanish ;)
 
Christmas in Occupied New Mexico

It was good to be home. But this time, 'Home' had a different meaning.

Almost to a different continent.

I now live on the 'other side'. hey. The other side of nowhere, some may say.
But not really. It's just another slice of Heaven. An obscure one, you might say.

I now live, and call 'Home!', on the east side of Hwy 118. In the mountains, the desert. Here. Where we get twice the annual precipitation. Where I am now on the skirts of the mountains. Where there is greenery, shrubbery, biodiversity, birds, stars, black skies, owls, deer, and a diversity of people. Amazing how different it is from 34 miles south. Now, going into town (Study Butte/Terlingua) is like going into Alpine.

Here, we are remote. Isolated. And we love it. We have our own little community: book club, knitting gathering, homesteaders, off-grider, on-griders, alone-ists, etc. We have our share of psychotics, religious zealots, hermits, etc. The difference here is that we are more scattered. A wide scatter plot compared to a dense blot of both Study Butte and Terlingua.

I get into town once or twice/week now. The places I go, the people I see, render either a more welcome presence, or an antipathy of 'I'm glad I don't have to deal with them/you more often'. Such is the nature of small towns. Conversely, in large cities, everyone melds into the vast populace and everything blends in to the point that nothing sticks out unless they are abhorrent.

I looked forward to the 2013 Desert Rats gathering with enthusiasm. It would be the first time in many years in which it would be like the original. The original Desert Rats would be coming, and I was so excited to see them again. It was like a bird finding its original nest buddies after so many years of migration. (I'm a biologist; can't help the metaphor ;)

And so it was in many ways: Roger, David, Hardy, Tom. Bob. We were honored with a visit by Kathy and her son, Josh. It was a wonderful gathering, despite being so short. Now that I live 34 miles north, I missed the extended gathering and rides. But, nevertheless, it was an event that infused me with a sense of camaraderie that welcomed me back to Home.
That place we hang our helmets. Our hats. Our jackets.
Our hearts. Our souls.

Thanks. I love you guys. Really, I do.

Five am. Gooooood Mornin', Study Butte!!!

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Late Morning.
The ritual at Roger's is sitting in the Cave and watching the birds.

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We might tell stories, snooze, ponder, wander and wonder. But we contemplate life and the sun as they move on.

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We think aloud, we think inside ourselves. But this is what this environment does. These are my 'brothers'. Not by blood, not by kin, but by a common mindset and love of life and the desert.

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There be odd compatriots that inhabit this desert. They need not be 'alive' as we think of them. But they be a part of us and what surrounds us.

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And most of us all just want to get along.

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And there might be juxtapositions, oddballs, and in balls; fruit cakes and nut cases. There be gregarious musicians, hermits, and in-secure don't-know-what-its. But, mostly, we all just want to get along.


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Here, roses bloom on creosote bushes

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water nourishes neglect

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and wooden coyotes bay at the moon.

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David, Goddess bless him, is the Desert Rat's Camp Chef Extraordinaire.
He feeds our bodies and our souls. Sol approved, as well as our pallets and guts.

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When Kathy and Josh came, it was like a local homecoming. Graeme was astounded at Santa Kathy.....

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And, when the Santa Mademoiselle costume migrated to the blue bottle pole, Roger offered up his sacrificial rite.

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A few scattered stories prompted outbursts of harmony and glee.

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More folks arrived. And the day grew long and cold.

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I took refuge in a warm bed in town for the night. Others cuddled in tents and some in their trailers. It was the end of another Desert Rat's Christmas in Big Bend. So different in many ways, so exciting in others.

I looked forward to this gathering for many months, even two thousand miles away. I thank all my Desert Rat brothers. You are family to me. And I hope we have many more.

Now that I have both bikes working and running again, I hope I can ride with you all next time. By next time I hope to have a place that I can extend out to all of you to come, sit a spell, pitch a tent, enjoy the remote silence, and partake of a grand campfire.

Love you all. Thanks for coming this year.
Desert Rats Semper fi.
 
I have only been back to the reality sucks world for a couple weeks and I am already drooling at desert picts . SEYA
 
Are you living up in the Cedar Springs area now? For some reason I've never gotten up there but maybe next trip.
And maybe some day we'll get to start building on our property.
Robert
 
Are you living up in the Cedar Springs area now? For some reason I've never gotten up there but maybe next trip.
And maybe some day we'll get to start building on our property.
Robert

Thanks for the care package at Uncles , it was very muck appreciated by all , especially me since I couldnt make it to the open house party at Lone Star last year . I had to replace the running gear under my trailer that weekend . SEYA
 
Birthday Phoenix Rising Ride

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The Whee and I took a Birthday ride, a Phoenix Rising ride, a New Decade ride. Only 198.28 miles, but each wheel turning was a movement in the right direction, even with no particular place to go. It was one of those personal experiences where you sprout wings and fly. Where you grin from ear to ear.

It was the Phoenix finally fully airborne out of the ashes, turning into the white dove in song, aiming for the stars. Just as some strike out alone to find their spirit, I found my spirit and myself. At peace. And at Home, inside and out.

A new beginning on life. What a grand ride it was.

The day began with a splendid sunrise in the saddle of the two mountains where I live. What a great way to start the day.

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Geared up, struck out in a generally southern direction.

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Then headed east into the National Park. My first visit and bike ride since returning to Texas. Three BMW's flew by me while heading north. I pulled towards the right line to let them pass, gave them a wave, then realized that I was doing 60 mph. 'Hmmm.... They're flying. Maybe I'll tag behind.'
So I stayed a respectable distance behind. Going 80 mph. While looking behind to make sure no Park vehicles were closing in behind, and forwards to see if these riders were pulled over (I would have adequate time to slow down and wave again).

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Exiting the Park, I found a stop to complete a mission: photos of FM 2627 for the FM Tag game. I stopped and took a shot at each sign I came across on this road in both directions.

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This road is really sweet. With golden grasses waving in the winds, mountains floating on the horizons in each direction, the silence and remoteness, the flecked black tarmac like a flat meandering snake; it was meditative, like doing tai chi on wheels. I found myself smiling inside my helmet, almost as if I was big bird just coasting on a thermal.
It was a joyous ride, one which I will do again soon.

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On the return ride west, I stopped for a break at the Stillwell place. No one was there that I could see, but I heard a door slam behind the store.

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I walked up to the store, tried the screen door, but it was latched from inside. So I sat on the porch for a bit, relaxed. Enjoyed the quiet. The desert. The day.

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Then I heard boot steps, a click and the door opened. A head and shoulder appeared and then, "Oh! I had no idea someone was out here! Want something cold to drink?"

After some small chat and finishing off an iced tea, I got back in the saddle and rode west again. This time, I stopped a few times on the roadside and just sat. Smiling, grinning, sighing big, feeling good inside.

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This cut into the limestone hill was fun. It reminded me of riding on a long tongue sticking out of a giant limestone elder, 'Oh Grandfather! Let me slide down your tongue!'. Almost as fun as going through a tunnel.

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Back out towards the mountains.

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And south again into the Park.

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The clouds thickened and grew bruised. I think I changed my glasses from regular to sunglasses at least a half-dozen times that ride. But the colors were beautiful.

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I felt daring and kept the little Kodak video camera in my gloved hand and took shots while riding. Not something I ordinarily do, but I did. Rode with one hand on the throttle and the other in the air somewhere, just pointing and pressing the little red button in the middle.

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I stopped in at Panther Junction to use the rest room and look for a book. Parked next to this gem and thought of John Ford in Indiana, "Ah, this is what John needs!"

While I was peeling off some gear at the bike two couples stopped to chat and asked about all the decals on the bike. One pointed to a decal on the rear panniers and said, "Hey, Pirate Week at the 1,000 Islands!! We've been to that one!". Since the Whee made it up to New York for the summer, it had to sport a few reminisces of the few long trips and excursions, including the big NY ABATE banner. Turned out this couple were from western NY and enjoying some fall weather in the Texas Desert.

I dug out the good camera and strolled through the desert plant specimen garden area. The light was good for practicing some plant shots. Our newly formed Terlingua Photo Club has motivated me to go beyond my comfort zone (aka beyond 'auto' program ;) and experiment with some techniques. Such as manipulating depth of field and macro shooting.

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Satisfied my thirst, had a protein bar, and used the rest room. Time to go; got wheels to turn!

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Pulled into the Basin Rd for a short quick visit. Missing the cougars and bears, I am!

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Back north again, then east. The clouds were now making paintings across the sky.

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I put the little vid camera in the tank bag and concentrated on getting back in time to Study Butte to share some ice cream with a friend. But I had one last stop.

The Badlands...

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Then it was back home. To the base of the mountains that I call Home.


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It was a good ride, a good anniversary of my birth, a good first day of another decade, and a good celebration of all life.

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(photo by Voni Glaves)

And the Phoenix has risen.
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Are you living up in the Cedar Springs area now? For some reason I've never gotten up there but maybe next trip.
And maybe some day we'll get to start building on our property.
Robert
I'm up near the Lodge area, another 8 miles or so past Cedar Springs Road. I'm actually right at the base of Whitehouse Mountain. And might end up on the other side of the same mountain soon on my own place. Got the Chisos Mnts right in my arms there! ;)

Did you leave any for Texas Shadow?
I was only able to be with the Rats on Christmas Day, but stopped in a few days later for a shorter visit. I guess I missed something ;)

Sorry I missed seeing you, too!
 
Very inspirational Elzi!

Setting my sights for the area around the first of May. Hope my pictures are half as good as yours!

Keep up the good work!
 
DR350 Resurrected

Mid-November my DR350 was transported to the Glaves Hospital. It suffered from neglect, sun scald, and depression. It was unhappy. It needed surgery.

"So, you leave me here all summer and fall to rot in the sun? I'm not talking to you."

"I'm sorry. I had no choice. Really, I did miss you. You can come home to Mamma now."

"I'm still not talking to you. And something's not right inside."

"You look terrible..... We have a bike gurney here to transport you to the Hospital. We will make you stronger, better, and, well, working. And you need a bath...."

It normally doesn't take four people to load this bike, but there were other things we were all doing that day, too. So little DR had plenty of hands to help it onto it's gurney. At the end of a very, very, very long day, the DR ended up safe and sound at the Glaves Hospital.

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After things settled down, Paul discovered that the DR needed some heart work. After removing the carburetor, he pinpointed the issues, which were several, and some parts needed to be replaced.

I ordered a carb rebuild kit for the Mikuni flat slide carb TM33. In all, it wasn't expensive, but it took forever to arrive due to Holiday snail mail. In fact, I was worried it got lost in shipping. But the tracking info revealed it was delivered to the post office. Lisa, our wonderful postmistress searched everywhere and couldn't find it.

I began to panic. I mean, this is a matter of life and death: lost heart parts!! ;) We found the rebuild kit, hiding in between some magazines. I expected a box, or at least a larger package than what it was! It was smaller than a legal size envelope. Sheesh. They were hiding.

Paul and I finally set a date to do the heart surgery and transplant. I rode the Whee over and had a relaxing chat with Voni and Paul, and Voni kindly pumped coffee into me.

I had my first real and thorough Carburetors 101 class. Paul explained how carbs work, their systems, functions, parts, etc. Paul is an excellent teacher! And I can't thank him enough for his kindness and ability to so effectively explain and show how this heart works inside a bike!

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"Paul, this is great! This carb is now my friend, instead of my enemy!"

And keeping it running smoothly with routine simple care is so simple, thus avoiding all the issues I've had with it over the past few years.

Oddly enough, one part seemed to be missing from the carburetor. The accelerator pump rod. It's a long rod, about two and 1/2 inches long and maybe 1/4" diameter, that..... should be there, but wasn't. As it was, the plastic shift broke while we were replacing a part near it. The plastic was brittle and it just... fell apart. But, that's a rather moot point anyway because the entire accelerator system won't work without the rod anyway.

Paul surmised that the rod has been off the carb since I've had the bike. And I haven't really noticed it lacking in power. I mean, when I twist that throttle open wide, it still takes off like a horse out of a gate.

"I'm not sure you would ever really need that extra boost anyway," Paul said.

"Well, Paul... there was the time when I was on a back country gravel road in Oregon, and there was this mean nasty cow that decided she was going to vent all her aggressions out on me. And she came at me full throttle on those stick legs of hers and I really did need it that time to get out of her way!!!"

"And..."

"I did get out of her way as fast as the bike was able to get me out. Thank goodness. But then any more power and I might find myself ending up in a bank of bentonite again when I got cocky one day with the throttle...."

"Uh huh..... I don't think you'll miss it."

I don't know if I will miss what I didn't have, but I need to find the parts anyway. Which seems to be elusive. I haven't found any of the accelerator pump parts for this carb yet!! I am, however, ordering another rebuild kit just to have on hand.

We reassembled the DR's heart and decided to call it a day. While looking at a few other things, which is a good time to do with the gas tank off, we noticed a few other things that needed attention.
A bracket on the frame rubbed two small slits in the gas tank. That would need fixing. And Paul took a file to the two burs on the bracket to avoid creating more holes. And some of the wire harness needed new tape.

Other than that, except for one turn signal that decided to try and run away, and the foam covering the middle of the handlebar that needs to be covered (the plastic sleeve rotted off from sun exposure), it just needs some TLC.

I got a pm one day that the DR was running. Perfectly. I was thrilled.
Hitching a ride with Pam at the office, I got dropped off at Paul and Voni's and donned the gear. The DR started up on first press of the magic button.

"How you feeling, there Junior?"

"Like a hundred bucks! Jump on and let's go!"

After hugs and thanks to Paul, I turned out of their driveway onto the highway. And there was Voni, with her camera. :) Shoulda known. ;)

All the photos here in this post are courtesy of Voni.

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Many Powers of the Horse in My Bike

The Naughty Boy DR350 is back in business, running better than it has ever before! (Thanks to Paul Glaves magic hands) Just before darkness fell on the ranch road, several cottontails ran back and forth on the road. The DR navigated the obstacles like it was a flying broom, weaving in and out of bunnies crossing the road. Then..... something moving to my right caught my eye. In a flash, I glimpsed a coyote running alongside me for about a 100 yards! It turned its head with its tongue sticking out, and, maybe I'm crazy, but it looked like it was laughing at me. Then it veered off to the right and into the desert scrub.

Darkness enveloped us and I felt an awesome sense of freedom riding on this thing that is like a young colt underneath me. Quick twist of the throttle and it takes off with a throaty yell. Up and on the pegs and let it run underneath me, reminding me of the days when I would give the reins to my horse Shadow, stand in the stirrups, and let him go to his heart's content. Weight on one peg and it bends to that side; weight on the other peg and it bends to the other side. It's suspension is like a supple horse underneath me.

Under the moon we rode and part of me didn't want to stop.

I love this little bike. I may have to call him 'NightShadow' instead of 'Naughty Boy'. Fitting that he be named after my willing and noble black horse, Moonraker NightShadow, who was my best friend for almost 20 years until September of 2012.

Can a horse be reincarnated in a machine?

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Your writing is truly a gift, both poetic and magnificent and a shear delight for all the senses! Look forward to reading more.:clap:
 
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