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Suzuki V-Strom mechanic

Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
10
Location
North Texas
Looking for a Suzuki mechanic in the DFW area for my 2003 V-Strom- even though its got low mileage, it's due for a 15 year service!
Was planning on going to the Mesquite Suzuki shop, but they do not exist anymore. Suzuki show only 3 dealerships in the DFW area. I'm located in Plano, but the Plano shop....
 
Joined
Dec 25, 2006
Messages
86
Location
Midlothian, TX
If you have crossed off Plano Kawasaki / Suzuki as an option, then Cycle Center of Denton or Arlington Motorsports are probably your next options
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Messages
1,336
Location
Midlothian
I used Pit Crew Cycle Center in Aubrey a couple of times for my 2012 Wee. I was quite pleased with their work and didn't feel like I got bent over with the bill. Quite a drive from Midlothian for me but not to bad from Plano for you I'm guessing.

http://www.pitcrewcyclecenter.com/
 

mitchntx

Follower of Rev. Doug
Joined
Jun 11, 2006
Messages
3,179
Location
Granbury
I'll be in the minority, I'm sure but I just don't read very many messages on these forums where valve clearance was out of spec.
I honestly don't see the point of uncapping the motor for this and think it unnecessary at 15K miles.
60K ... well let's talk about it.

Keep good, clean motor oil in it, drive like a sane person and it should be trouble free.
Buzz it to the limiter routinely, then 15K may not be often enough.

YVMV
 

Mr2mch

Forum Supporter
Joined
Mar 5, 2008
Messages
6,138
Location
Where the road leads ya.... Or Waco
I usta wring my 650s neck sometimes tryin ta keep up with my friend's DL1000s... But never had any issues.....50-60k was normal for the first valve check on 2 of the Wees Ive had. (both sold with 80+k miles & running great) The 3rd was sold at 35k with no valve check & running great...4th is in the garage rite now with 24k on it.

I didnt own a 1000 for more than 20k miles..so never had to check the valves on any of the 3 bikes Ive owned but think the same valve check intervals would apply.
Now..on the 1000s... A check of throttle body sync & idle position sensor is more important for smooth running... Check for clutch noise too if the hub hasnt been replaced yet

Sent from my LGL62VL using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
10
Location
North Texas
Thanks for the leads and discussion. Since my 03 has only has 24,000 miles perhaps the valve adjustment can wait and as Mr2mch mentioned focus on syncing the throttle body and idle position adjustment. Considering its been 15 years and the high temps around here, I was planning on having all the fluids changed.
For comparison, here's a quote from a stromtrooper thread regarding a local dealer $850 fee for 15000 mile service (note-OP found a dealer to do the same service for half the price):

[$850].."normal for a retail dealer if its a full engine service. It takes me a full day to adjust the valves, mainly takes time to remove all the stuff and get into the engine. Best to remove the radiator, drain all coolant, new air filter, engine oil and filter change while your there etc. Does that include clutch and brake fluid? Probably does include a TB sync? Probably does not include fork oil changing though, don't forget about that. Forks seals and internal wear items love good oil. The first change gets the junk out from break in. I would ask them to install extensions on the TB sync nipples, that way you can do a TB sync without taking any body work off in the future.
Vee valves are tight from what I hear and need to be checked earlier than a Wee. I did mine at 26 or 28K I think and the exhaust valves were very tight, too tight. Glad I loosened them up. I would stress to the shop that I expect the actual valve lash measurements for my records and that they are set as loose as possible within spec. Shims work out to the loose side sometimes, but not always. Sometimes you have to choose and mechanics are prone to leave them alone if they are barley inside of the tight end. Go mid spec or below. Then they will go a long time, like double the interval.
The most important thing is to choose the shop with the best reputation, don't go in blind. Ask around, get a feel for your local shops. I would pay more for a real mechanic with experience, not some kid fresh out of tech school."

Thinking about ss brake line for front brake and a fork brace, as well. Maybe some spings..
 

Mr2mch

Forum Supporter
Joined
Mar 5, 2008
Messages
6,138
Location
Where the road leads ya.... Or Waco
Ya kno...I also remember some of those early 1000s having a rear wheel spacer with the wrong thickness causing chain misalignment/sprkt wear. Someone was making correct thickness spacers for sale.
Anuther thing to check... the throttle body boot clamps for tightness....sometimes the bike would hiccup popping the boot loose...especially bad if throttle body sync wasnt right I think

Sent from my LGL62VL using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
10
Location
North Texas
Thanks Mr2mch. I read something about the wheel spacer and did not know if it is important. I will look into it, see if I can get the part.
I have not heard anything about the TB boot clamps. What did you think of the suggestion in the quoted stroomtrooper segment about adding extensions to the TB so syncs are easier to accomplish? I have no idea what that would look like...
 

Mr2mch

Forum Supporter
Joined
Mar 5, 2008
Messages
6,138
Location
Where the road leads ya.... Or Waco
No brainer farkle.....done while bodywork is off
Remove rubber caps on throttle body vacuum nipples...replace with appropriate length of vacuum hose to reach easy access on side of bike.. Use 2 plastic vacuum nipples on hose ends...install rubber caps there. All stuff avail in any auto parts store

Sent from my LGL62VL using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
10
Location
North Texas
Tried to take the bike out today- it's been sitting a long time - and the front brakes seized on me. The front break lever is wide open, but the brakes are seized tight. Was able to go forward a few yards, but the brakes got even tighter instead of loosening up. Almost pitched me off.
Will try some anti-corrosion spray, see if I can pry the brakes apart..
 
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
13,843
Location
Arlington, TX
Sitting a long time is how long exactly? And in what type of storage, open to the elements, in a garage? A disc brake system is a pretty robust system especially on the Stroms. I would hazard a guess that in garage storage, it would probably go 20+ years without being maintained and still function.

Now out in the weather, that is an entirely different ballgame.

Before you pry on them, just crack a bleed valve and see if there is a pressure blockage. That would be my first thing to try.
 

mitchntx

Follower of Rev. Doug
Joined
Jun 11, 2006
Messages
3,179
Location
Granbury
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
1,216
Location
Dallas
Thanks for the leads and discussion. Since my 03 has only has 24,000 miles perhaps the valve adjustment can wait and as Mr2mch mentioned focus on syncing the throttle body and idle position adjustment. Considering its been 15 years and the high temps around here, I was planning on having all the fluids changed.
For comparison, here's a quote from a stromtrooper thread regarding a local dealer $850 fee for 15000 mile service (note-OP found a dealer to do the same service for half the price):

[$850].."normal for a retail dealer if its a full engine service. It takes me a full day to adjust the valves, mainly takes time to remove all the stuff and get into the engine. Best to remove the radiator, drain all coolant, new air filter, engine oil and filter change while your there etc. Does that include clutch and brake fluid? Probably does include a TB sync? Probably does not include fork oil changing though, don't forget about that. Forks seals and internal wear items love good oil. The first change gets the junk out from break in. I would ask them to install extensions on the TB sync nipples, that way you can do a TB sync without taking any body work off in the future.
Vee valves are tight from what I hear and need to be checked earlier than a Wee. I did mine at 26 or 28K I think and the exhaust valves were very tight, too tight. Glad I loosened them up. I would stress to the shop that I expect the actual valve lash measurements for my records and that they are set as loose as possible within spec. Shims work out to the loose side sometimes, but not always. Sometimes you have to choose and mechanics are prone to leave them alone if they are barley inside of the tight end. Go mid spec or below. Then they will go a long time, like double the interval.
The most important thing is to choose the shop with the best reputation, don't go in blind. Ask around, get a feel for your local shops. I would pay more for a real mechanic with experience, not some kid fresh out of tech school."

Thinking about ss brake line for front brake and a fork brace, as well. Maybe some spings..

FWIW my 2002 DL1000 has about 63K on it. When the valves were checked at 50K they were fine. My next bike, if it is a Vstrom (probably will be) probably won't ever get checked again unless it is some dealer recall foolishness. I'll do the initial break in oil change and do a hard break in and after that ride and ride and just do oil changes and air filters as needed...
:rider:
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
10
Location
North Texas
My V-Strom has always been in the garage and pretty well cared for, except sitting around too long without a rider. It's been well over a year since I took it out to get gas a week or two ago. I got about 200 feet and the front brake tightened up so much the bike would only squirm and almost toppled over. Frozen solid. I had to take the front right caliper off the wheel to get the bike back into the garage- I did not know how to bleed the pressure off. The fluid in the master cylinder looks quite muddy.
A friend trailered the bike over to Rockwall Powersports- they brought over two Suzuki mechanics from Action Suzuki in Mesquite.
Mitchntx, funny you should mention SV Racing Parts, because I ordered the brake and clutch lines from him and they have never appeared. As a result the bike is just sitting at the shop waiting for his parts - and now its too late to take off on Friday for my ride to North Carolina. Blair Layton at SV Racing is not answering my emails...
Mitchntx- I will send you a pm about those parts.
Yet another thing, When I moved the bike two weeks ago one of the rear turn signals just snapped in half- no pressure at all- maybe a light tug from the blanket covering the bike. Then,when I took the light cover off to take the bike to the shop, both of the front turn signals were snapped in half! Seems like the heat just cracked them up. Any advice on replacements would be helpful.
 
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
1,216
Location
Dallas
My V-Strom has always been in the garage and pretty well cared for, except sitting around too long without a rider. It's been well over a year since I took it out to get gas a week or two ago. I got about 200 feet and the front brake tightened up so much the bike would only squirm and almost toppled over. Frozen solid. I had to take the front right caliper off the wheel to get the bike back into the garage- I did not know how to bleed the pressure off. The fluid in the master cylinder looks quite muddy.
A friend trailered the bike over to Rockwall Powersports- they brought over two Suzuki mechanics from Action Suzuki in Mesquite.
Mitchntx, funny you should mention SV Racing Parts, because I ordered the brake and clutch lines from him and they have never appeared. As a result the bike is just sitting at the shop waiting for his parts - and now its too late to take off on Friday for my ride to North Carolina. Blair Layton at SV Racing is not answering my emails...
Mitchntx- I will send you a pm about those parts.
Yet another thing, When I moved the bike two weeks ago one of the rear turn signals just snapped in half- no pressure at all- maybe a light tug from the blanket covering the bike. Then,when I took the light cover off to take the bike to the shop, both of the front turn signals were snapped in half! Seems like the heat just cracked them up. Any advice on replacements would be helpful.
Did he actually take your money? If so then I'd be upset as well, but if not then I'd just move on since there are plenty of other places to get brake lines from, and even otherwise, if for the mean time, and in order to make your ride, you could put the original ones back on. Seems like an easy decision to make rather than holding up a ride.
 

SL350

Forum Supporter
Joined
Oct 12, 2005
Messages
13,127
Location
Mesquite
Looking for a Suzuki mechanic in the DFW area for my 2003 V-Strom- even though its got low mileage, it's due for a 15 year service!
Was planning on going to the Mesquite Suzuki shop, but they do not exist anymore. Suzuki show only 3 dealerships in the DFW area. I'm located in Plano, but the Plano shop....
I know I'm slow but I just found this out today when I visited to have a tire mounted. I took the tire to nearby Renegade Cycles and danged if they were not DOA also.
 
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