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DL650 Hand Guards on a 600 Bandit

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PhilS said:
The guys at Ron Ayers said this was the only kit available. I chopped the left guard where marked on the photo. All in all and after the 20 miles test tide - I am totally happy. DL1000 kit was 57300-27820-291 which changed to the DL650 kit 57300-27821-291 which ended up being 57300-27822-291 which is what they had and sent. Here's how I modified the guard:

StockLeftGuardNotes.jpg
Click to expand...

You did a good job Phil, looks like GSF1250 Hand Guards to me.:clap:

Thanks for sharing!

:rider:
 
Thanks for the detailed write up Phil. The same fat guy left me some as well. He also left a Manic Salamander throttle lock... I'm wondering if they will both work together though... We'll see, I'll install it this weekend..

trey
 
Phil,

Do they both touch the fairing at full lock or is it just one of them that hits?

I have no clearance problems at all. I'll attach some pics once the camera batteries charge up.

To help them clear loosen your handle bar and rotate it back slightly (closer to the rider). Be careful to not turn it back too much or it will hit the tank at full lock. Once you have it set, re-adjust your levers by rotating them down until they are in a comfortable position again. That should help.
 
Brass said:
Phil,

Do they both touch the fairing at full lock or is it just one of them that hits?

I have no clearance problems at all. I'll attach some pics once the camera batteries charge up.

To help them clear loosen your handle bar and rotate it back slightly (closer to the rider). Be careful to not turn it back too much or it will hit the tank at full lock. Once you have it set, re-adjust your levers by rotating them down until they are in a comfortable position again. That should help.
Click to expand...

They both touch lock to lock. I have the Daytona bars on mine which have less sweep or pullback than standard which accounts for why both touch on lock to lock. They only touch when I am parking or manuevering at feet down speeds into the garage. I can lock the handlebars and still have 1/2" clearance so all is good. I could rotate the bars as you suggested, but I love the feel of how it sits right now - but that would certainly fix it as you suggest.

Phil
 
The bars look very much like stock in the pics. I never would have guessed you changed it.

It may be worth trying to rotate the bars. Depending on how they are bent, you may not notice much difference on your wrists/palms.

Here are pics of how they clear with the stock bars. I apologize for the dust on the bike. A hazard of parking it in the office for the winter is that to do anything to it requires that I be at work!
 

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Spoke to Ron Ayers who spoke with Suzuki.......there's only one kit and it needs modified to fit the 1250 Bandit like I did. And there ya go.

With respect to the guards hitting, you and I might be experiencing 600 vs 1250 differences as well. I will be rotating slightly later this weekend.

Thanks for the insight.
 
PhilS said:
With respect to the guards hitting, you and I might be experiencing 600 vs 1250 differences as well. I will be rotating slightly later this weekend.
Click to expand...

I have the same DL650 kit as you, installed on my 1250. The only difference would be the handlebar.

Without rotating the bar, would it be possible to reposition (elongate) the mounting holes a bit more to gain the extra clearence you need?
 
OK - I got it. I thought you were speaking about comparing the 600 to the 1250. The bumping does not bother me, yet. I can elongate the holes to pull them in closer to the handlebar, but, I would be somewhat cautious as I would not want to see the unused elongated hole left after the adjustment.

If I do this, and whether it works or not, I'll post pictures.

Later - Phil
 
can any stromers attest to how these actually function if the bike goes down? I'd hate to put Mair barkbusters on a bike like this, but I like their function and easy on/off of the guard for the warm months and still have protection. They took a beating on my KLR several times. Not that I will be fire roading the Bandit. :rider:
 
bones said:
can any stromers attest to how these actually function if the bike goes down?
Click to expand...

They won't help any on a go down - they are pretty flimsy for ground impact protection. I replaced mine this year due to a sand flop in April. I had them off the bike for a while and I will vouch for their usefullness as wind protection - that they do well. :thumb:

If you want impact protection, you need to go with the metal framed guards.
 
Unfortunatly I drop tested my hand guards last weekend ! A dog ran under me as I crept up the gravel road I live on to get to the blacktop.
The bike landed right on the handguard and turn signal on the right side , popped the turn signal in , slightly scratched the end case on the motor.
The hand guard survived with just a few pit marks from the gravel so I am impressed , the dog survived with a pit mark from the rock i beaned him with
 
gunzip said:
Unfortunatly I drop tested my hand guards last weekend ! A dog ran under me as I crept up the gravel road I live on to get to the blacktop.
The bike landed right on the handguard and turn signal on the right side , popped the turn signal in , slightly scratched the end case on the motor.
The hand guard survived with just a few pit marks from the gravel so I am impressed , the dog survived with a pit mark from the rock i beaned him with
Click to expand...

Glad you and the hand guard held up ok. I was impressed when mine didn't break on my little get-off earlier this month in Waco.

http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23978
 
Can any of you guys who've fitted the DL650 guards to a 1250 comment on what you used as a clutch pivot bolt? The stock one isn't long enough to go through the guard so I'm guessing you've used the one supplied in the kit for the cable clutch?

I'm concerned about doing this - the bolt supplied in the kit isn't right for the hydraulic clutch - it'll give the clutch lever only half the amount of bolt to pivot on (accelerating wear on the lever?) and also won't prevent the housing from 'closing up' and pinching the lever as the stock bolt does. Have any of you experienced these problems? I'm thinking that a modified version of the right hand pivot (as supplied in the kit) would be far better/safer. This should be available as a DL1000 spare part.

Any thoughts?
 
I am interested in doing the same handguard mod to my 2000 600 bandit. I am wondering did you retain the stock bar ends or were those the bar ends from the vstrom? how does the handguard clip into the bar end? Also what exactly does that clutch sensor do? and clipping it will have no effects? thanks in advance
 
opflash said:
I am interested in doing the same handguard mod to my 2000 600 bandit. I am wondering did you retain the stock bar ends or were those the bar ends from the vstrom? how does the handguard clip into the bar end? Also what exactly does that clutch sensor do? and clipping it will have no effects? thanks in advance
Click to expand...

The kit comes complete with spacers that the guards clip on and longer bolts to go through your existing bar ends. The switch prevents the starter from engaging unless the clutch lever is pulled in. Without it the bike could start in gear if the kickstand is up. You can eliminate it by connecting the wires together. I wasn't comfortable with that so I removed the plug and trimmed the terminals on the switch and soldered the wires on directly. Then I painted the terminals with liquid electrical tape. The only other mod I recall was drilling a hole for the clutch cable to go through. I thought I'd take the handguards off in the summer but I just leave 'em on year round. If you ask me, they are well worth the effort.
 
awesome thanks for the information. Is there anyway in your opinon on getting around cutting the clutch sesor wires. Meaning can you cut or modify in your opinion the handguards to avoid cutting the sensor wires. It wouldnt be that big of a deal just thinking about all the options
 
opflash said:
awesome thanks for the information. Is there anyway in your opinon on getting around cutting the clutch sesor wires. Meaning can you cut or modify in your opinion the handguards to avoid cutting the sensor wires. It wouldnt be that big of a deal just thinking about all the options
Click to expand...

I suppose you could just solder wires onto the trimmed switch terminals and crimp on some male spade terminals to plug into the bike's harness. Then the only thing you'd have to do to restore everything is buy another switch.

If you're ok with removing the switch altogether, just make a little jumper for the plug.
 
To revive this thread... Thanks Phil for the handy writeup and drawing of what material you removed. My installation isn't quite as clean as yours, but I'm very happy with it. Did a test ride in the 40's today and only needed my summer gloves (much better feel with those gloves, so I'm already happy with the mod)
 
sproggy said:
Can any of you guys who've fitted the DL650 guards to a 1250 comment on what you used as a clutch pivot bolt? The stock one isn't long enough to go through the guard so I'm guessing you've used the one supplied in the kit for the cable clutch?

I'm concerned about doing this - the bolt supplied in the kit isn't right for the hydraulic clutch - it'll give the clutch lever only half the amount of bolt to pivot on (accelerating wear on the lever?) and also won't prevent the housing from 'closing up' and pinching the lever as the stock bolt does. Have any of you experienced these problems? I'm thinking that a modified version of the right hand pivot (as supplied in the kit) would be far better/safer. This should be available as a DL1000 spare part.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Can one of you that put these on a 1250 address sproggy's question? I'm wondering about this as well.

Thanks.
 
BlueStreak said:
Can one of you that put these on a 1250 address sproggy's question? I'm wondering about this as well.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I put the DL kit on my bike w/o too many issues - I just trimmed the guards.

I don't remember if I used the supplied bolt or the existing one but I think the thread mounts to the perch in such a way you can make it work. I'll try to look this weekend and post again.
 
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