Figured out this is the vacuum tube that went into the stock petcock. 2019 models they changed it. This is what I found on thumpertalk
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The DR/DRZ Thread
- Thread starter Marc B
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So I plugged the hard vacuum line when I removed the pair valve. Also plugged the other side of the carb and it's not turning over at all. Not sure on my next move?
Solved it. Adjusted my idle air position a few turns to the right. Started right up and idles like a champ.
rshadoan
0
check the spark plug....you may have that thing too lean. The four stroke is a fuel screw....for the idle air adjustment...a few turns is alot. The jet kit should have had instructions on lightly seating it all the way in then backing it out a specific number of turns....you really should not need to much adjustment from that setting if properly jetted. I usually have to adjust mine slightly when it cools off or heats back up, summer vs winter.
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rshadoan is giving you good advise. A rule of thumb: If the screw is on the cylinder side of the carb slide, it's a fuel screw. If it's on the air filter side of the carb slide, it's an air screw. Nearly all air screws have a set number of turns out from lightly seated and the setting will be in the maintenance manual. It will not vary much from the suggested setting unless there is also a jetting problem. Air screws are accessible from the factory. Unless a bike is over 40 years old, fuel screws are covered by a thin aluminum plate unless the cover plate has been removed. My method for adjusting fuel screws, also known as pilot mixture screws: 1. warm the bike up 2. adjust the idle to the slowest RPM that will keep it running. The idle should be kept at minimum RPM and may need to be readjusted during the next two steps. 3. Turn the mixture screw out until the bike just starts to stumble, that will be a rich stumble. 4. Now, turn the screw in until the bike stumbles on a lean stumble. Count the number of turns it takes. 5. Set the screw half way between rich stumble and lean stumble. 6. Adjust the idle speed. If the adjustment results in the mixture screw being between two and three turns out, the idle jet is most likely spot on. If less than two or more than three, there is a good possibility that the idle jet needs to be changed.
This is precisely the right method. Having not really worked on any DR except my dad's DR200SE, I can't say for sure, but on my GS500, which has the same carbs as a DR350, getting it warmed up is critical to getting the correct pilot mixture adjustment. And getting it fully warmed up takes a good 15-20 minutes of actual riding under load. Most improperly adjusted carbs I hear about and help people with result from trying to adjust it when the engine is not completely warmed up.
Thanks for your help. Pulled plug. Looks good. I jetted for 3x3 air box and full exhaust. Yet I'm still running stock exhaust. Bike starts and runs SO much better. I feel it's a bit rich. I've got an MRD pipe and can on order.
So, I had to replace a few bolts that I apparently didn't tighten all the way and lost out at Barnwell. I was tired of having my fingers poked by the wires on the frayed end of my throttle cables whenever I pulled the carb out so I added a set to the order. Turns out, you can click on the throttle cables in the fiche diagram on RMATV's site and it'll let you add them right to the cart from there. But it turns out that there's additional throttle cables in the list below, so I accidentally ordered the wrong one. Need the curved ones for this part.
So after three weeks with RMATV shipping back and forth for an exchange I finally got them in, which means I finally got to put the DRZ back together that has been disassembled in my garage. Was just about finishing up and dropped a bolt down into the bike and heard it hit one thing but not drop out of the bottom. So, once again, I had to pull the carb out of it to find the bolt. I contemplated just rolling it out into the driveway and setting it on fire so I can go buy something fuel injected. Then I remembered I don't have money for that so I removed the carb after applying a liberal amount of curse words on it and then did the same putting it back in. Now, if it'll stop raining I can go get it inspected.
So after three weeks with RMATV shipping back and forth for an exchange I finally got them in, which means I finally got to put the DRZ back together that has been disassembled in my garage. Was just about finishing up and dropped a bolt down into the bike and heard it hit one thing but not drop out of the bottom. So, once again, I had to pull the carb out of it to find the bolt. I contemplated just rolling it out into the driveway and setting it on fire so I can go buy something fuel injected. Then I remembered I don't have money for that so I removed the carb after applying a liberal amount of curse words on it and then did the same putting it back in. Now, if it'll stop raining I can go get it inspected.
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Unfortunately I can relate to much of that. I'm also an old airplane mechanic. The dropping the bolt thing stikes fear in our hearts and minds and takes years off our lives.
OldTLSDoug
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Jasen, you love your DR-Z, they have character, so do you. Enjoy the ride, glad you got her sorted. You know you'd be sad if you set her on fire. Think of what you know about carb work now, nothing to it. Of course, I would have left the bolt and cover off...just saying, that is how you become a DR-Z Master.
The more I learn, I realize I know less than I thought I did.
TheD-Man
0
Complete Non Mechanic here. Simple jobs of adding farkles myself take hours and almost always have problems. Don't really understand why, but it never fails, doing any work on a bike takes me 5x the time as the youtube examples.
Zero experience working on actual engines; nor even basic understanding of how a carb works other than it regulates the fuel and air to the engine.
Floats? Needles? Jets? Multiple adjusting screws? Yeah....NO.
So that being said, my 2019 now will only run on full choke. I was trying to be good about starting it and letting it run every week to ten days. I had not been riding it much on a regular basis, but I was starting it and letting it run in the garage for several minutes.
I guess I waited too long this time and now I have a gummed up carb.
UGH.
I have looked at the videos of upgrading the jets, etc., and I am quite certain that I CANNOT take this carb out, disassemble, clean it, and get it back in.
Now I have to find a shop that will do it for me and find the time to dig out the trailer and get it there, etc.
%#*@ Carburetors.
I am in Cedar Park (North of Austin). I have used Shawn's Cycle Shop in Austin in the past to put on the Acerbis tank and new tires, etc., but he was pretty clear that he did not like working on the DRZ's Carb. On a previous DRZ (05), he tried to clean it without removing it and that did not really work.
So - any recommendations for another shop (NON DEALER) in the North Austin / Round Rock / Cedar Park area?
Thanks.
Zero experience working on actual engines; nor even basic understanding of how a carb works other than it regulates the fuel and air to the engine.
Floats? Needles? Jets? Multiple adjusting screws? Yeah....NO.
So that being said, my 2019 now will only run on full choke. I was trying to be good about starting it and letting it run every week to ten days. I had not been riding it much on a regular basis, but I was starting it and letting it run in the garage for several minutes.
I guess I waited too long this time and now I have a gummed up carb.
UGH.
I have looked at the videos of upgrading the jets, etc., and I am quite certain that I CANNOT take this carb out, disassemble, clean it, and get it back in.
Now I have to find a shop that will do it for me and find the time to dig out the trailer and get it there, etc.
%#*@ Carburetors.
I am in Cedar Park (North of Austin). I have used Shawn's Cycle Shop in Austin in the past to put on the Acerbis tank and new tires, etc., but he was pretty clear that he did not like working on the DRZ's Carb. On a previous DRZ (05), he tried to clean it without removing it and that did not really work.
So - any recommendations for another shop (NON DEALER) in the North Austin / Round Rock / Cedar Park area?
Thanks.
Except for the Austin part, that could have been written by me.
There's no shop in this area I can recommend. The one I wouldn't recommend closed, good riddance.
However, I am also in Cedar Park. Sounds like your problem is likely a clogged pilot jet, which is pretty common if you don't use it a lot. Also you should be using ethanol-free fuel, and in my case I have also had recent success with StarTron treatment in the fuel on my carbureted motorcycle as well as my lawn mower and pressure washer.
Anyway, I'm about to be rebuilding my dad's carbs on his '72 CL350. I rebuilt the carb on his DR200. I've done my GS500 carbs a dozen times, even wrote the most popular guide on doing it on the internet. This is well within my capabilities. However, you might need to ride it over to my place. LMK if you want to learn to do this and you can come on over. Probably worthwhile to get a new pilot jet before stopping by. You'll learn to do this, which is good, because IME it may wind up being an annual event.
Anyway, PM me if you want some hands on help.
Whoa, I'd totally take him up on that. Nice to have a local resource available and learn to fix it yourself in the future.
TheD-Man
0
Very generous offer mr72. Thank you!
I will give this serious consideration.
One of my challenges right now is TIME.
My wife and I are caring for her mother who lives nearby (sick dog about to go, fence falling down, chimney rotting and falling apart on roof), my Mom in Spring (roof leaking, no bedrooms downstairs / not good - we need to get her out of the house into another place TBD - ASAP), Father In Law in Idaho (Real Life Hoarder, in bad health, awful living conditions) we are going to Idaho in a couple of weeks. Granddaughter born Nov 2019 that I haven't seen much at all due to Covid that is growing so fast and I am missing it.
I think most weekends are going to be accounted for in the foreseeable future.
We are feeling a bit overwhelmed here! TMI? Probably. Just kind of freaked myself out typing all of that. But many on here have this and more.
Anyway, I really appreciate your offer. I am game to learn if with the right Sensei (patient and non judging
)I will stay in touch; perhaps we could find a window to do this. In fact, there is a very common "performance upgrade" that many of the DRZ owners do which is enlarging the airbox intake to 3"x 3", and upgrading the jets. I actually have the jet upgrade kit; I was going to eventually have someone do this mod. It is definitely more involved that cleaning / replacing a clogged jet (something has to be drilled out on the carb?), but if I am taking the carb out anyway, maybe we could do that. Lots of videos on YouTube on the process.
I will spend some time with the calendar and wife to see if there are any weekend days available to then compare with your schedule.
Thanks again.
If you have jets then it's an easy job. Assuming nothing else on the carbs needs to be replaced... Half the time is probably spent getting the tank off, separating the airbox from the carb. Once the carb is clear of the airbox, it's a snap to pull it, pull off the bowl, replace the jets, put it back together. If there's an anti-tamper plug on the bottom of the carb then it's easily removed with a sheetrock screw and vise grips, then we can adjust the pilot needle (idle mixture). But it probably won't even need it, strictly speaking. Airbox mod is easy enough to do while the airbox is off.
Even on my GS500 which is a huge pain to get the tank and airbox off, swapping jets is like a 30 minute job. That's twice as many carbs. I am guessing the carb is similar, I know the DR350 had the same carb as my GS500, just only one of them.
Even on my GS500 which is a huge pain to get the tank and airbox off, swapping jets is like a 30 minute job. That's twice as many carbs. I am guessing the carb is similar, I know the DR350 had the same carb as my GS500, just only one of them.
DRZ carb can be a bear to get free. If you've never done it take a few courses on University of Youtube. All kinds of good suggestions and ways to make life easier and keep what hair you may have still attached to your scalp. Use a JIS screwdriver on the diaphragm screws. They're made out of butter and torqued down by The Hulk at the factory. Other than all that it's really not a difficult job and after its done your going to say that wasn't so bad. Why didn't I learn to do this year's ago?
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I recomend that you have the oring for the seat assembly on had before working on it too. That seems to be he biggest point of failure when people are on trips etc.
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I recomend that you have the o ring for the seat assembly on had before working on it too. That seems to be he biggest point of failure when people are on trips etc.
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I recommend that you have the o ring for the seat assembly on had before working on it too. That seems to be he biggest point of failure when people are on trips etc.
And apparently I mean it too!
rshadoan
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To make life simple you need jet kit JDS005. It is a little bit over kill but you will be set for sea level, and have on hand the jets you need to goto the mountains of CO if you desire. Additionally JDFM050 fuel screw (is not required) but makes tweaking as necessary a lot easier with the carb installed on the bike. For sure replace the bowl screws with button heads. Take the screws you strip getting them off, to home depot...goto the bolt isle and look in the metric bins for the proper replacement. Loosen the sub frame and it will tilt up a little...which is enough to remove the carb with half the amount of cursing otherwise. To do this you will also need to unbolt the muffler. It sounds painful....but it really is not. ONE important note when removing the fuel tank..”DO NOT remove the fairings from the tank...the bolts that hold the fairings are shorter than all the other bolts that look just like them. If you remove the fairing...good chance you could install the wrong length bolt in that hole and puncture your fuel tank...happens all the time to new DRZ owners. Just loosen the fairings at the bottom where they connect to the radiator and lift the tank and fairings off as one whole unit. One of the other commenters is correct....learn to do it....cuz you will be doing it again sometime in the future.
TheD-Man
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Thanks. All of that description just makes my stomach turn.
I bought this back in March. I hope it is correct: JDJetting Jet Kit for 00-20 Suzuki DRZ400S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTDN6C...abc_C97ZTRZN1DXPT7NGQSG0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I picture having to take a disassembled DRZ and a box of parts to a dealer to fix what I screwed up.
Or I do it but it never runs right again.
Maybe @mr72 and I can watch the youtubes and tackle it.
rshadoan
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Yep that is the correct kit. Once someone shows you once...it will all make sense. When ever someone removes the carb...im betting most forget the step to re-set the throttle cables as well.Thanks. All of that description just makes my stomach turn.
I bought this back in March. I hope it is correct: JDJetting Jet Kit for 00-20 Suzuki DRZ400S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTDN6C...abc_C97ZTRZN1DXPT7NGQSG0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I picture having to take a disassembled DRZ and a box of parts to a dealer to fix what I screwed up.
Or I do it but it never runs right again.
Maybe @mr72 and I can watch the youtubes and tackle it.
Attachments
Removing the carb was quite easy for me when I re jetted. Installing back into the air box boot was not. It was the hardest part of the whole job.